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TR4A Road Springs

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I wold be grateful for some advice. My 4A broke a front spring and I decided to change all the springs. I ordered a replacement set of standard front and rear springs from Rimmers. These were fitted by a local garage that I use whilst the diff was removed for overhaul. When I got the car back, the ground clearance unloaded was 6.5 inches just forward of the rear wheels, and at the front, just aft of the front wheels, was 7.4 inches. It had been driven approximately 8 miles from the garage to home. According to the workshop manual the ground clearance should be a linear 6 inches with a static loading of 150lbs per side. The increased height at the front has increased the the toe-in markedly, rendering the self-centering almost non existent.

 

To confirm that the correct front spring was supplied I removed it and the details are: free length 10.5 inches, Coils (including each end) 9, wire diameter 0.525 inches. The new front springs are rated at 320 lbs/inch. Rimmers confirm this is the correct spring for the 4A to their Pt No 213165. The undamaged front spring that was removed has, by way on contrast, a free length of 9.75 inches, 7 coils and a wire diameter of 0.475. The corresponding figures for the rear springs are 11.375 inches 7 coils and 0.475 wire diameter. The car had and approximate ground clearance of 5 inches after I had fitted thicker spring cushions. From the length of the front spring it would appear that my car actually had early TR4 springs fitted, but without the aluminium spacers at the front. However, it still sat slightly rear down. My car has a build number of CTC52365-O and was produced on 18th March 1965.

 

Where do I go from here? Before I removed the spring to check its free length, the car looked as though it was on steroids at the front and is unacceptable in its present configuration (see photgraph). At the same time I do not wish to go to uprated and lowered springs as the ride on local roads is quite harsh enough as it is. My inclination is to go for springs Pt No 210903 being sold for the TR4. Is there any reason why these would not be suitable? From this experience, it would appear those springs advertised as being suitable for the 4A, 5 and 6 are actually unsuitable for the 4A (unless I have been sent a pair from a rogue batch). Indeed one suspects they are really designed to cater for the extra weight of the six cylinder engine.

 

Any advice or comment would be gratefully received.

 

post-3704-0-54086400-1502464370_thumb.jpg

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Could be a rogue pair of springs, could the garage have made a cock of fitting them? Stuart would know the pitfalls of that one.

 

210903 (TR4 without packing - no colour coding stripe) front springs are longer than 213165 (TR4A-6 standard that has no packing - grey/white single colour code stripe) - So NOT suitable for TR4A.

216275 rear coil spring have green and yellow marker stripes and are longer than the front springs.

 

TR2-4 CHASSIS - The nearest thing to the standard length TR4 that would be fitted with a packing in a TR2-4 chassis is the old factory competition spring part number 201899 - nearest to that when fitted to retain ride height was SAH606 which ended up as Triumph Tune TT4006.

They are the same fitted length with the standard aluminium packing as the 210903 without packing in a TR2/3/4 chassis. But quite firm!

 

Triumph Tune suggest their TT4001 is firmer but standard ride height on TR4A NOT the TT4006 which is described as raised. Talk to them about it or get their catalogue to ponder over. (NB ***TT4001 for my money are too low for standard road use on TR2-4 chassis unless you are careful on road humps)

 

see pdf of standard vs competition spring spec from TR2 service manual. STD is the LH col.

 

Front Spring.pdf

 

Peter W

 

PS Could we have a photo of the front suspension with the front wheel removed please?

 

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Hi namless TR-driver,

I had this problem some years ago:

 

I had to changed the old rubber bushes and used nameless poly bushes from a GB trader,

their inside diameter has been too small and I had to force them on the falcrum pin - where they glued after some weeks.

I did not realise that and it work anyway - until I lifted the car the next time!

 

The upper wishbones have been strongly pushed down by the springs,

the bushes also turned down and fixed in a lower position on the falcrum pin.

Back on the road the car was not able to turn the bushes back / up.

So my car looked like yours, lifted up from the poly bushes!

 

I changed to Superflex and they work very well.

 

Hope that helps, Ciao

Marco

Edited by Z320

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Just to reinforce Marco's point. Did your garage do the final tightening of the suspension pivot points with the suspension loaded or was it hanging?

Edited by peejay4A

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Hi

That picture looks bad.I just changed to uprated and shorter springs all round and with the spax adjustable shox I am very

happy. Still have my original springs if you want them. I see you have steel wheels, I have a set of original (1967)wiresin not bad condition and some new adapters and ears if you are interested.

 

Cheers

 

Simon

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Many thanks to all for your helpful and prompt replies to my query, particularly to Peter W, who's comprehensive response was very informative. As requested, I attach a photo of the front suspension with the Rimmer sourced spring fitted. As the photo shows, the spring is correctly seated, although I apologise for being unable to get the photo correctly orientated. I bounced the front after I brought the car home and the response appeared normal. As far as I know, no work was done on the front suspension save changing the springs, but the mechanic who did the work is on holiday so I cannot check.

 

Simon, Many thanks for your kind offers. I am content with my steel wheels. Regarding your springs, I found an older post on the subject of rear springs from someone who had purchased front springs Part 213165PR from Moss and these were satisfactory, so perhaps I have a pair that are out of spec. Current thoughts are to try a pair of Part 213165PR from Moss; if these prove unsatisfactory also I will send you a PM.

 

Geoff G

 

post-3704-0-28624700-1502700627_thumb.jpg

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That flexible brake hose looks a bit tight ?

 

Bob.

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Bob, I don't think so when viewed in the flesh, so to speak. The photo was taken on full lock, and it is a braided hose, which is probably a bit misleading as well. Many thanks for your interest and your note, none the less.

 

Geoff

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And a split steering rack gaiter, which is an MOT failure if you get a pedantic tester

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Whoops, I will put new glasses on the ever growing list of body replacement/overhauled parts: hearing aid, knee joints, hair transplant, waist `(not waste) removal........... it just goes on

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