Jump to content

Clutch Girling slave cylinder


Recommended Posts

In a different topic ( http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/62972-grease-nipple-at-clutch-cable/) it came to the attention of RAHTR4 that the clutch hydraulic cylinder may not be fitted on a proper plate. I checked and found that the cylinder is tightly fitted but that the push rod may not actually be alligned correctly. I included some pictures for your reference, please have a look and let me know what needs to be changed?

Thanks!

Erik

 

post-14211-0-34583400-1501822833_thumb.jpg

post-14211-0-58903600-1501822842_thumb.jpg

post-14211-0-63908400-1501822854_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Erik,

as you have noted the rod is not in a straight line between cylinder and drop arm.

The cylinder is slightly outboard of the car centre line.

 

This is normal - but not good. It adds to the force required to operate (only a little bit).

 

I made a new plate that brought the cylinder in towards the gearbox. How handy are you at fettling.

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

......

 

I made a new plate that brought the cylinder in towards the gearbox. How handy are you at fettling.

 

Roger

I have fairly good mechanical skills, and tools too (especially the newly installed lifting bridge :) ), but no TR4 experience at all. My first job will be exchanging a rotten gaiter on the steering rack (today).

Edited by earckens
Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a similar problem. I followed advice and used the centre hole which put my operating rod at an angle. This damaged the slave lining in a short mileage. I had a new slave fitted which failed after 1 hour. Finally I had my original relined in stainless steel by Past Parts Ltd and it is better than new.

 

However I am now using the lower hole, for a straight run, and I am having problems adjusting the clutch rod.

 

Maybe there are variations in these mounting plates??

 

Richard & H.

Link to post
Share on other sites

TR2-3-4 with spring type clutch with a return spring fitted between the mounting plate (small drill hole in lower edge) and the clevis pin (through attachment plate)

Clutch push rod is then adjusted as per instruction manual, to give a set clearance.

is it...Extend till it touches then back more than one turn, less than two, then lock off with nut.?

 

TR4A onwards had a diaphragm clutch and no fitted return spring or adjustable clutch slave push rod. No adjustment is needed as the hydraulics take care of the adjustment.

 

Oddly the TR spares world has started selling adjustable clutch slave push rods for these self adjusting systems, aimed at TR5/6 owners, who probably have worn out clevis pins and egg shaped clevis pin holes in their clutch pedal/push rods etc.

- Does it make the clutch work better ?... not in my mind.

 

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.