Truimph Roadster 2000, 1948

[AlanT]

This is a "brain-pick" request. I've been asked for a wiper-motor for a Triumph Roadster.

 

Does anybody know what kind they fitted on these. Might be a CR/CRT.

 

Any information would be most welcome.

 

Al.

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Alan I would have said CRT

This image shews a CRT

https://www.rajveteranu.cz/auta/17825/v/e14-triumph-roadster-2000.jpg

 

Peter W

[Alec Pringle]

Later 2000s utilised a CRT motor, and the triple wiper arrangement found its way onto a few early TR2s.

 

Cheers

 

Alec

[AlanT]

Thanks chaps.

 

Peter, your photo shows what I suspected. That's actually an SW4.

 

So early cars probably used the SW4 and later they moved to a CRT.

 

Most useful. I'll ask if he has triple wipers. He has a 1948 Roadster 2000. So these are really useful replies.

[RAHTR4]

Hi Alan,

 

All Triumph Roadsters 1946 to 1949 were originally fitted with a Lucas SW4 wiper motor, part number 72545.

 

This motor provided a sweep of 120 degrees.

 

Regards, Richard

[AlanT]

Oh I should probably have explained that a CRT and and SW4 have the same "motor" part but an SW4 has a right-angled gear-box.

 

I can clearly see the shape of this in the photo.

 

These SW4's are really common pre-war practice, but a Roadster is a pre-war design really.

 

Either way, SW4 or CR, this chap is in luck because I have one of each!

Edited July 31, 2017 by AlanT

[AlanT]

Thanks Richard for the positive confirmation and the correct part-number.

 

I shipped the chap part-number 75066. We'll find out if this works. There is nothing in an SW4 that sets the sweep angle. The drive comes from the gear-shaft NOT the crank-pin.

 

So sweep angle depends only on the linkage. Wish they were all like this.

 

Time we had a photo of an SW4. 67 years old this one. Seized by old grease when I got it but running sweetly now.

 

 

 

Edited August 2, 2017 by AlanT

[stuart]

What did you use to coat the main casing with Alan?

Stuart.

[AlanT]

There is just one brand of wrinkle-paint that I find successful.

 

This is:

 

VHT Wrinkle Plus

VHT Products Company

Cleveland OH.

 

Comes from Frost, these days.

 

I use either four or six light coats, depending on ambient temperature. Higher temperature allows slightly heavier coats. I re-coat just as the previous coat gets "tacky".

 

At least 24-hour air-drying and then 1-hour at 100C.

 

It's quite difficult to get consistent finish and no runs. Needs a bit of practice.

 

I don't bother in cold/wet conditions. Takes too long and comes up with "clumsy" wrinkles.

 

On the SW4 I was anxious not to get paint on the inside of the body and did not quite use enough paint.

 

This is a bit more usual:

 

 

On these I mask the pole-piece and actually spray inside. But an SW4 must slide on, against the pole-piece, which is cast-encastre in the main body. And they are tight AND you don't want to hit it.

 

Edited August 2, 2017 by AlanT

[stuart]

There is just one brand of wrinkle-paint that I find successful.

 

This is:

 

VHT Wrinkle Plus

VHT Products Company

Cleveland OH.

 

Comes from Frost, these days.

 

I use either four or six light coats, depending on ambient temperature. Higher temperature allows slightly heavier coats.

I re-coat just as the previous coat gets "tacky".

 

At least 24-hour air-drying and then 1-hour at 100C.

 

Is quite difficult to get consistent finish and no runs. Needs a bit of practice.

 

I don't bother in cold/wet conditions. Takes too long and comes up with "clumsy" wrinkles.

Thanks.

Stuart.

[ianc]

Really professional job - I'm sure the car's owner will be delighted.

Ian Cornish

[AlanT]

Thanks Ian.

 

These early motors are really quite weedy things compared to later ones. See the difference in the armatures.

 

 

OK for flat screens and 40's roads. Having said that they are beautifully made, aircraft methods.

[Waldi]

Nice Alan.

Bit off topic:

I plan to use the wrinkle paint from VHT for the air manifold, think they were like that on a 1970 CP car. Looking for a friend with a big enough oven:)

Waldi

[graeme]

Just as a comparison to Alan's superb finish on his wiper motor, this is one I did with crinkle finish powder coat, again from Eastwoods.

 

 

Cheers

 

Graeme

[AlanT]

Hi Graeme. What do you have to do to use this powder-coat?

Usually you apply high-voltage to attract the powder.

 

Also how long and what temperature for the cooking?

 

The VHT spray makes a very tough finish. If I use the silver hammer-finish, some motors had this originally, I don't get anywhere near such a durable result.

 

You notice this, for example, when you tighten the pole-piece screws. This tends to bring the hammer-finish off. Not so with the wrinkle.

[graeme]

Hi Alan,

 

I blast clean the part with glass, then use this Eastwood kit to apply the powder. http://www.eastwood.com/dual-voltage-hotcoat-powder-gun.html

 

I use a small grill type oven and hang the parts inside at 250 degC for about 20 mins. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Andrew-James-Grill-Black-Capacity/dp/B00A9UQBEU

 

Cheers

 

Graeme

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Hi Graeme. What do you have to do to use this powder-coat?

Usually you apply high-voltage to attract the powder.

 

Also how long and what temperature for the cooking?

 

The VHT spray makes a very tough finish. If I use the silver hammer-finish, some motors had this originally, I don't get anywhere near such a durable result.

 

You notice this, for example, when you tighten the pole-piece screws. This tends to bring the hammer-finish off. Not so with the wrinkle.

 

I used to use small washers under the head of the pole piece self tapping screws and fit them within 24 hrs of painting ie before it had fully hardened.

 

Issues here of messing up the paint if you gripped the casing. I used a steel mandrel to locate it all on to be sure the pole piece was concentric and I was not tempted to grab the outer painted part of the casing.

 

I jave also used the VHT paint with great success, chose afternoons when alone so I could cure things in the domestic oven. It does a lovely job on the centre instrument panel of TR3A and of course the mirror and stem.

Peter W

[AlanT]

I once used Hycote. Instructions on this say NOT to oven it.

Still soft after a week.

 

So I put them in store and came back 6-months later. Still a bit soft.

 

Had to run each motor for two-days to set the paint. Remember they get pretty hot.

 

One thing is that the VHT paint softens when you cook it. And its delicate if you take it out of the oven after an hour.

So your handling technique must take this into account. Safest is to just turn the oven off and let everything cool in place.