Rob Salisbury Posted August 2, 2017 Report Share Posted August 2, 2017 Hi, I made a heat shield like that with some Ali sheet from B&Q and lined it with a plumbers soldering heat mat (same source), ...... my Dynamator has been running with it for 4 years now and around 12000 miles, worth doing if you can face taking the heat shield off again .... the thick belts really don't seem to last as long as they did when the cars were much younger, and they get really annoyed if the pulleys are slightly out of line, so it's worth checking, I also keep a spare belt cable tied to the front plate ready for when the working one goes!!. Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted August 3, 2017 Report Share Posted August 3, 2017 IMG_2868.JPGAnd.... here is the heat shield installed - really simple job - you bend it to your set up/shape. Holds in place on the manifold stud and with a metal cable tie around the manifold. The only thing I think that could be an issue is the development of a rattle? ...and it will fracture at the angled bent in no time Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted August 3, 2017 Report Share Posted August 3, 2017 ...and it will fracture at the angled bent in no time +1, mine fractured in only a few thousand miles. Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 3, 2017 Report Share Posted August 3, 2017 Hi Paul, that forward offside corner will attack you sooner or later. Get your Gilbow's and trim it with a radius. If the back end of the shield and be held reasonably tight then the front shouldn't break off Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jean-Marie Raedts Posted August 3, 2017 Report Share Posted August 3, 2017 After my visit to the TR International Meeting in Malvern, I'am just back from my third trip from Belgium to the Stelvio in Italy. I have in Lombardy during 2 hours queued in a traffic jam and the temperature was around 30°C. My 3 years old dynamo, mounted without heat shield could not deliver the 8A, needed for the fan while the engine was mostly on low RPM. Suddenly the Amp meter, the temperature meter, the fuel gauge and the pressure gauge decreased their value. The voltage on the battery became apparently too low to feed these devices via their own voltage stabiliser. I made the failure to leave the queue and check the situation by stoping the engine. Restarting the engine was not possible any more, only a dry click was the response. Pushing the car solved that issue, but I replaced the battery the next day, because also after having driven for a while the battery remained dead. I had the same experience 3 years ago, but in that case the battery was new and survived the situation. I don't know if my dynamo is still working properly, it charge the battery because I got home with the car, but I'am not sure that it is not damaged. Anyhow, I will fix this now but after reading this thread I'am not sure what to do, while I was thinking about that alternator in a dynamo housing of which there is an expensive version and a cheap version. So I really appreciate to get some inputs on the following questions: 1. How can I check the condition of my existing dynamo, it charge from time to time on the Amp meter even with 25A after I have restarted the engine after a cooling down period during the night. But does that means necessary that it is not damaged, while there is of course no regulator inside? What should be the charging value (I only can measure voltage of course and reading on the Amp meter) if the headlights would be on? 2. I will finish my heat shield and will install it. I was making a double sided one, but finally It was not mounted. It was not really needed for Belgium or a trip to Malvern, but in the extreme conditions as I faced twice in Italy during summertime in the traffic jams (the first time it was in a tunnel, where on top of the fan, also the lights were working ; everything was then stopped also the cooling fan with the result of escaping cooking water at the top of the radiator) it is really a must. 3. Which alternator do you recommend? I still have the original wide belt and want to keep it to avoid balancing issues on the crankshaft. Is anyone having good experience with the dynamotor in extreme conditions? Thanks for your inputs. Jean-Marie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted August 3, 2017 Report Share Posted August 3, 2017 (edited) If your dynamo can deliver 25 amps then there probably isn't anything wrong with it. The current drawn will depend on the charge state of the battery and on the settting of the voltage regulator. Its possible your regulator isn't working properly but to check and adjust that is not a simple procedure. These links describe the method: http://www.voc.uk.com/net/docs/8.4/8.4-163-5.pdf http://www.trtriumph.com/Regulator%20adjustment.pdf You will get lots of reconmmendations for different alternators but if you want to retain the wide belt you may need to use your existing dynamo pulley, so the alternator shaft needs to be of the correct diameter for it to fit. Retaining the pulley is not ideal as the whole point of an alternator is that you can spin it faster at low engine revs. Ideally you need a smaller diameter pulley than the dynamo one but I don't think those are readily available and it might mean having one made. The alternators in a dynamo housing can suffer from poor cooling and premature failure as some folks on here have found out. Edited August 3, 2017 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR4A1965 Posted August 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2017 (edited) The angle bend is double thickness so hopefully the Revington part is substantial enough:-) Who knows? I have installed the dynomator version - getting the fan and pulley swapped was a bit of a mission as the Dynomator has a Woodruff Key where as the previous Dynalite had a tapered shaft. This was fixed by using a washer behind the fan to raise it slightly so the key fitted nice and tight and by angle grinding the pulley back as the the shafts between the 2 brands are different lengths and the pulley shaft length did not allow for the nut to be tightened! In any event, it is all charging well now so I'll see how long all this stuff lasts? Best. Paul. Edited August 3, 2017 by TR4A1965 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel C Posted August 3, 2017 Report Share Posted August 3, 2017 and all this lined up perfectly? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR4A1965 Posted August 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2017 :-))) Hh ha. Yes it seems to be lined up very well thanks to the Woodruff Key:-) Best. Paul. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel C Posted August 3, 2017 Report Share Posted August 3, 2017 I was thinkin more about inline with the other two pulleys? It is not always easy to get them perfectly inline x3 and this causes belts to chafe and wear prematurely Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted August 4, 2017 Report Share Posted August 4, 2017 (edited) The angle bend is double thickness so hopefully the Revington part is substantial enough:-) Hopefully...but I think the idea is twofold: 1/ Prevent vibrations by rather having the shield attached in solidarity with the block - ss manifold pipes are long hence vibrate and distort a lot 2/ Allow cool air to flow between the manifold and the shield and between the shield and the alternator - if the shield is in contact with the manifold it will absorb the heat from the manifold and won't serve its purpose, worse it will act as a heat reflector spreading the heat over a larger surface How about this ? Edited August 4, 2017 by Geko Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR4A1965 Posted August 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2017 Stef - we're all doomed?? Best. P Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jean-Marie Raedts Posted August 6, 2017 Report Share Posted August 6, 2017 Rob, Thanks for your input. I still have some time, but will fit a regular alternator and a heat shield. Jean-Marie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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