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Current opinions/experiences with eBay ally radiators


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Hi everyone,

 

I know there are older topics on the same subject but having found that the radiator I was planning on using has a small leak, and then finding the high price of getting it recored I need to look at the option of using one of the eBay winner racing/GPI racing ally radiators for the TR6.

Has anyone recent feedback on their fit and general finish (read reports of incorrect inlet and outlet pipes and a small filler neck meaning the standard cap won't fit).

 

Appreciate any constructive info anyone has. Thanks

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As I already posted I had trouble with these guys offering under different names

from different places all the same crap. Mine was GPI.

 

The ears for fixing the rad had been badly welded, fully unsuitable and after

some negotiations I sent it back and never got full refund.

Ebay asked them twice to refund also shipping but they wanted me to revise

negative vote on Ebay before they would give me my money.

 

All is different at these rads, normal cap does not fit. Also I would not buy this because

seller was not interested in satisfied customer but cheating as much as possible.

 

post-13092-0-09309600-1500389201_thumb.jpg

 

You see its far away from welded rectangular as it should be and

one side is not welded at all. -Fully crap-

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As I already posted I had trouble with these guys offering under different names

from different places all the same crap. Mine was GPI.

 

The ears for fixing the rad had been badly welded, fully unsuitable and after

some negotiations I sent it back and never got full refund.

Ebay asked them twice to refund also shipping but they wanted me to revise

negative vote on Ebay before they would give me my money.

 

All is different at these rads, normal cap does not fit. Also I would not buy this because

seller was not interested in satisfied customer but cheating as much as possible.

 

attachicon.gifDSCF4959klein.jpg

 

You see its far away from welded rectangular as it should be and

one side is not welded at all. -Fully crap-

+1 on the GPL, the one I saw was assembled and welded bent.

 

The Winner racing one I had for TR2/3 was great quality but the bottom tank was too wide to fit in the chassis, the outlet tubes were too small and the radiator cap was a high pressure small diameter thing from a motor bike - so all in all - Crap.

 

Peter W

 

PS If it sounds too good to be true then it probably is.

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Check out Racetorations or Revingtons, supply excellent stuff but you do pay a premium, no association other than a satisfied customer from both establishments, cheers, Andrew

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I got mine also from Serck, they are based in Hayes Middx.

Great to deal with and they also welded some extra brackets on so I could mount my Kenlow.

 

http://www.serckservicesmotorsport.co.uk/our-range-5964.html

 

Steve

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If you want a good quality product, with lovely neat welding, please visit the below web site:-

 

www.revivalfabrications.com

 

 

No connection, etc.

 

 

Cheers.

Direct link http://www.revivalfabrications.com/

Stuart.

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For my VItesse, I bought an alloy one off eBay at £80, for a Honda CRX, as it was nearly the same size as the opriginal.

Had to fabricate a thermostat cover that conected to the right instead of the left

'Ears' welded on the sides by a local welding shop - works fine!

 

John

 

 

 

 

post-535-0-10162500-1500398184_thumb.jpg

Edited by john.r.davies
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Hi Andrew,

 

I have a '69 TR6 and if you're interested in negating the inherent cooling problems of the Triumph I6 engine once and for all would recommend installing a Wizard Cooling.Aluminum Radiator. along with a Tridon TT2000-180 High Flow Thermostat.

 

I've visited Perth and Fremantle on three occasions, always enjoy golfing at the Joondalup Country Club, and know first hand how excessively hot and dry your environment can be at times there on the Western Coast off the Indian Ocean. Installed a Wizard Aluminum Radiator in my car four years ago and I enjoy spot on engine operating temperatures ever since. B)

 

Make certain you use Distilled Water and not garden hose municipal tap water when filling, or better yet try converting to using Evans High Performance Waterless Coolant.

 

Keep 'em on the road! Cheers! :)

Edited by Case
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Opinions vary. I went for aluminium as I didn't have an original copper rad. Copper is a more efficient radiator material but of course it's heavier than Al.

 

Evans waterless isn't as efficient at heat transfer as plain water. Normal Bluecol and deionised water for me.

 

Plenty of posts on here arguing the pros and cons.

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FWIW my rebuilt PI TR6 used to overheat in traffic jams in summer (original rad) . After a lot of research I bought a replacement copper rad at Stoneleigh. I then bought a Comex fan (those fitted to Revotec kit) and made my own brackets and wired it up. Well guess what, I've never had to use it, since I put the new rad in, new thermostat and really good flush car has never gone past half way on the gauge and normally runs at about a 1/3 of the way up the gauge. BTW done many miles in the hot weather and sat in numerous summer jams since.

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Hi all,

 

The thing I would say is I am always very wary about ordering expensive things direct from China off the bay. Any problems and it can take ages to sort if there is an problem, if it gets sorted, and it looks like some people have had problems with these guys, even with the 99%positive feedback.

 

So my general rule is buy from a uk supplier with a reasonable reputation, although I can see the attraction of these guys with an alloy rad at 170 quid rather than 540 at Moss. But I doubt Moss will be making 370 profit per rad so I would think "why so cheap" and I guess now we know.

 

Maybe for some its cheap enough to modify, but I wouldn't want to weld alloy myself as apparently it's more difficult than steel, and it would say something about the quality of the item anyway.

 

So how much is a recore?

 

On the basis that a new steel/cooper rad is a couple of hundred and a rubbish ally one is 170 an original spec one or a recore of same seems to be the way to go if budget is a consideration.

 

If you really want an ally one it looks like stumping up a bit more than 170 unless Rivival (or similar outfits) are amazingly cheap.

 

So standard spec for me as I cannot see the benefits, to my driving anyway, justify the extra price.

 

Cheers

 

Keith

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Don't be fooled by the New Steel/Copper Rads either some of the Soldered Joints are done with minimalistic amounts of Solder and will eventually Spring a Weep/Leak better to get your Original reworked by a recommended Rad Specialist.

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Thanks for all the replies.

 

Firstly...im in Australia so any UK suppliers are out simply because of the postage and exchange rates :(

 

The conundrum I have is that to re-core the original (with a good quality 3 core copper/brass core) is ~$600 AUD (est)..the eBay alloy ones are $300 AUD delivered and so 1/2 price.

 

I have a feel of the good and the bad, but on the surface of it the ally eBay radiator 'does what it says on the tin' and IF you get a good one, it will work and do its job but on the flip side badly welded mounts, neck sizes and possible incorrect fitment may mean a headache but..not insurmountable.

 

Long and short...I would have to be prepared to 'gamble' $300 as if it goes well...quids in but if all goes pear shaped, I would then have to pay the $600 and go from there.

 

Decisions..decisions.

Edited by AndrewP
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As Andrew says , copper radiators are expensive in Australia , I'd prefer aluminium because of the cost and weight advantages over copper.

 

Currently I use copper radiators for all vehicles with a 50% concentration of long life antifreeze flushed and changed every 3-4 years regardless of mileage. I also earth the radiator to the block as I'm worried about stray currents with the older vehicles' chassis earthing system.

 

I'm sure a good quality aluminium radiator would have adequate thermal performance but I'm concerned about galvanic corrosion with this material.

 

I'd like to see some evidence that aluminium had a reasonable corrosion lifetime before I used it.

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Hopefully all quality rads will do the job many, many years.

If you have one of these crappy things, you will never have fun

not even in the first year.

 

I bought a cheap Charly copper rad from Bastuck in Germany and had

4 fails during 5 years of lifetime. The solderings both of the outside frame

and of the water related parts failed and I resoldered them.

Next year the rad broke at another place, all was crap!

 

My aluminium rad was already explained and completed by Peter.

Necessary to see that they might already know about the bad quality and sell

under different names but from same place. Can be seen in German Ebay.

It can not be a reliable business if six companies sell the same product for

the same price from the same town in the Netherlands.

In addition most of these companies sell the same product from China.

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I re-cored the original radiator, think I paid £125 2-3 years ago and came back as good as new. A new aluminium one cost more than that, and is not as good so for me the choice was very easy.

 

A company in Coventry did the job and the guy I spoke to said the alu ones in addition to be less efficient is much more likely to crack/split/leak so he would not recommend alu to anyone unless maybe for racing due to weight.

 

Magnus

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The alloy rad on my car with a modified engine is 20 + years old and has never caused an issue either at speed or in traffic using an electric fan. The attraction for me is the weight reduction benefit at the very front of the car, they look nice too :)

 

For those interested link below of the RMF alloy rad which has been fitted to a number of fast road and race winning TRs

 

https://www.facebook.com/commerce/products/1561802973854253/

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Andrew and Stephen have a good chin wag and good drink together (vs drink w/ the flies) w/ a little creature (the bier) and enjoy yours TR6 and go for motoring

A French TR6man who enjoyed good time en Australia.

 

Regards

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