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Later type softtop onto a TR4


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One of the things, maybe the only thing, I envy the TR4a/5/250/6 owners most for is the practical softtop.

The TR4 top is a clumsy affair with separate frame and top. It will keep out most rain but needs too much time to put up.

I feel this keeps me from using the car when the weather for the day is not free of rain - which are many many days. The chance of rain during the day puts me off using the car for a longer trip or taking it to work (one and a half hour drive one way). I often feel that if the car would have a simpler to eject top, I would use it more often.

So I am trying to find out if it is possible to fit a TR4A/5/250/6 type of top to my car. Are they all the same?

The catches on the windscreen rail, are these bolt on or welded to the windscreen frame? If welded, is the windscreen frame the same as for a Mk3 onwards Spitfire frame?

Apart from the frame, what changes would be needed on the rear part?

 

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Each to his own.

 

I don't think it's such a big task on the 4, removing the soft top

and folding down the hood frame, and it folds away so neatly.

 

I've had 6s and although the soft top can be folded down more

quickly, it never looks neat.

 

AlanR

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Will the whole TR4A-6 shabang actually fold into the body of a TR4?

As we all know the TR4a-6 has narrower section forward deck pieces compared to TR4 originals. - making the interior of the car above the arches wider by about 3/4"

 

Peter W

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I stand to be corrected but as Peter has pointed out, the 4A front deck sections are narrower than the tr4 ones as the 4A frame is slighly wider on the loop bits behind the front mounting - I'm fairly certain the frame mounting on the B post is the same for both cars but I think this means you will have to change the front deck sections for the narrower " waisted" 4A ones, otherwise the frame won't fold fully down.

 

The existing TR 4 rear seat covers which lift up and then fold back over the hood frame should be able to be retained but you will need to change the alloy deck covering for the later 4A arangement.

 

At the windscreen end, you will need to change the capping for a later soft top one - as I recall, the catches use countersunk threaded screws to mount into the windscreen frame and I have a suspicion the captive threads may not exist on the earlier windscreen frames - however it should be simple to use appropriate self tappers if there is no provision for the threaded sort.

 

It is doable but personally I don't find the earlier arrangement that slow to erect and I think it looks much "cleaner" than the later one, but I do accept the 4A is a more substantial and stronger piece of kit, and hence probably more waterproof.

 

Cheers

 

Rich

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I have a TR6 hood and frame on my TR4. However you will need a TR6 windscreen frame due to the different means of front hood fixing. I don't think you can modify your TR4 windscreen frame.. The three point fixing on each side of the body in the B-post area is the same. for both hood frames.

 

You will probably have to change the TR6 hood fixing where it fixes on the rear deck to Liftadot as used on the TR4.

 

The frame and hood material folds perfectly away for open top motoring and is covered by the tonneau.

 

John Hanna

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Having to rely on a memory of what was done back in 1981 is a little difficult but here goes.

 

Yes the TR6 hood will fit onto the TR4, however as some respondents state the rear deck forward sections need to be the later TR4a/5/6 versions which are "scalloped outwards by about the 3/4" as Peter states, otherwise the wider framework of the 4a/5/6 hood will not fully fold down, it will look like a VW Beetle cabriolet ! Given the fairly major mods of these forward sections unless yours are already done (mine was) you may not need this other info.

 

The TR4 windscreen frame I removed the capping on and fitted the cam plate locks for the TR6 hood between windscreen frame and capping, I can't remember having to use "O level" tinbashing skills to fit them and so I think they just screwed in place.

 

Oh...the TR6 hood and frame new from Cox and Buckles was £60 (as I remember) as a "stock cleanse" item, maybe Peter W remembers them, those were the days.

 

Mick Richards

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Thanks for the replies. Installing other deck forwarding pieces are not part of the plan so I will continue to have to live with the old top.

 

In the beginning I used the car without the tonneau cover partly fixed. This has the advantage of a clean look, with the neat rear side and rear trims and an empty "bench". But the disadvantage is that the bench cannot really be used for things, clothing, for fear of blowing away. Also, the tonneau cover and top cover needs to sit in the luggage compartment taking away the practical space there.

So I never drive without the tonneau cover covering the rear department, with the folded top sitting below on the rear "bench". This looks neat and also provides an easy way to put scarves, head caps etc under the tonneau out of sight. Also the luggage compartments completely empty, which is useful when I take the car to the supermarket! However the disadvantage is that in order to put up the top, first the tonneau needs to be removed, side interior trims unbuttoned and folded over, remove the four rear carpet lift the dots in order to remove the rear "slab", fold over rear slab, get out the frame, fold back the sides and rear, put on the top.

 

What I have done now is pressed the frame against the trim and put the top on all but the first front front lift-the-dots, and folded the top into the space behind the seats. It would be very easy now to erect the top.

Disadvantage is that the neat look is gone. The clear windows are visible hanging down. I am not sure I can live with that, maybe I will revert to my old scheme.

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