CV-halfshafts WARNING!

[jean]

I still have not yet fitted the shafts on my TR6, but after all the negative information this gives me hope.

A few month ago I heard the same remarks from a Dutch friend and he mentioned that his TR6 even uses less fuel ??

 

Knowing Harry I'm convienced that he did the conversion with the necessary care, what probably is the key factor to success..

[Guest ntc]

Having just come back from Classic Silverstone and the first run since fitting Classic development CV Driveshaft and hubs I could not believe how it has transformed my TR5. Much smoother and the suspension is not having a tough time now. My original uprated GKN driveshafts and Cosworth hubs which show no signs of wear can not compete with how smooth everything is now.

Just Brill.

Regards Harry TR5 Nutter

So how much £ do you want for the old ones Harry?

[15eren]

As Jean writes it is important that the conversion is made with the necassery care.

First of all, You must assure, that the trailing-arm-bushes are OK and that the studs in the TA are also OK.

Then, with the TA in a position, where the shafts will be horisontal, there must be a distance of 400 mm from the diff-flange to the outside of the brake-backplate.

And finally, the center-nut must be tourqued to 29 kg or 290 Nm. If these tings are OK and You still have problems with the CV-jointed halfshafts, the reason is shafts of a poor quality.

And that is exactly what was my experience with the CDD-shafts.

Here is a link to a YouTube movie that shows a CDD-shaft on the bench. The CV-joints in the shafts have too much play and the result is shafts, that are clonking. And that is what You wanted to get rid of.

 

 

 

Cheers Tage

Edited August 2, 2017 by 15eren

[harrytr5]

Strange as my ones have a little play which is part of the design and not noticeable in action!

One of our guys will be doing 2000 mile stints in Europe culminating 4000 miles overall in four weeks.Lets see what he has to say

Regards Harry

[TriumphV8]

Hi Tage that play in the video is similar to that from my original VW GOLF II shafts.

 

I expect play in the gearbox of same amount what does not play that role

because it counts only 1/3.5

Also in the CWP is some play and also counts 1/3.5

In the diff cage is play and between diff and the stub axles, too.

Again same amount like in the video and this counts full.

 

And the last point is the whole diff itself that bends under load in the

rubber mounts

 

So we have several places to get play into the drivetrain.

Best way would be to use a BMW diff that wipes out several

of the nasty areas inside the diff.

 

With no doubt the play is not fun but a playless driveshaft

will not cure the probem fully and other cars have to live with it, too.

[15eren]

Hi Andreas

 

I see Your point. But in the gearbox and in the diff unwanted sound is partly eliminated, because everything is rotating in heavy oil. With the shafts it is different.

I know that You loose less power in CV-jointed shafts, but in my opinion the main reason to install these shafts is to get rid of the annoying clonk from worn splined halfshafts with UJ´s.

And my opinion is, that these CDD-shafts in no way are better than good, well-maintained splined shafts with UJ´s.

I am also aware of the fact, that perhaps the problem is donor-parts of a too low quality, but I do not think that You have to accept that.

At least I think that eveybody should consider what You may expect, before You buy these shafts.

 

Cheers

Tage

Edited August 4, 2017 by 15eren

[TR NIALL]

Has anyone researchered where these CV Joints come from originally,look a bit like Ford to me if so are Fords encountering problems.

[RogerH]

Hi Niall,

I know some of the Club TRiumph guys use Rover shafts.

 

Roger

[peejay4A]

Has CDD had the opportunity to comment on your complaint Tage?

[TriumphV8]

They are all very similar, inside is 100mm joint

outside 80mm or less.

 

They differ from the inner spline area and how

much the inner piece can travel to compensate length.

 

Just from the quality they are all the same if from GKN

or another well named manufacturer.

 

The problem is reduced to the driveshaft itself where

there is none on the market that fits right out of the box.

[barkerwilliams]

I fitted a set of CDD shafts to TR6 about four weeks ago. Easy task, fitted well and work exceptionally well. No issues whatsoever. Look to be a quality product.

 

No connection just very satisfied.

 

Alan

[15eren]

Hi Pete

 

Yes they have commented several times. But their final conclusion is, that some play in the shafts is normal. They also agree, that there should not be play in the alloy-hubs.

They are right about the hubs and perhaps they are right about the shafts. But as I have written before, the main reason to buy these expensive shafts and hubs is to get rid of clonking from the halfshafts.

No recommendation from me.

 

Cheers Tage

[Guest ntc]

As I said I know of a few that failed

[roy53]

Has anyone researchered where these CV Joints come from originally,look a bit like Ford to me if so are Fords encountering problems.

I asked SC parts at a show a few years back and they thought that they were BMW M3 .Very vague i know but knowing the power that i was going to put through them i wanted ones which would cope.

Vague dose not cut it . Are these companies worried that we will then source our own if we know.

 

 

ROY

[RogerH]

Hi Roy,

go on the Club TRiumph forum, ask the question, then build your own.

 

That's what they do.

 

Roger

[Nick Jones]

Hi Niall,

I know some of the Club TRiumph guys use Rover shafts.

 

Roger

 

There are at least 3 different conversions for the rotoflex versions of the small-chassis Triumphs. Canley Classics do one based on CVs from the Triumph parts bin, Jigsaw Racing do one based on VW joints (I think) and there is a "DIY" version that uses a Rover outer CV and shaft with a Volvo CV, which happens to fit straight onto the Volvo shaft at the inner end. This one also uses the Rover one-piece bearing pack (with vertical links machined to take it) and Rover hub flange.

 

All of these seem to be reliable unless grievously abused and interestingly enough, nearly all of the Rover based conversions have been done with used parts (except wheel bearings). I've personally built 40 + shafts with used joints; each joint being washed out and re-greased before being fitted to the shaft with new gaiters. The scrap rate for the CVs is very low, I think zero for joints still wearing their original, unsplit gaiters. Of course it undoubtedly helps that the donor vehicles are low powered and often driven by the elderly so the joints don't have a hard life, but CV joints are typically very tough indeed. The conversion shafts on my own car have done nearly 50k miles now in addition to whatever the donor vehicles had covered.

 

The CVs on my Audi A6 have done over 300k in their 21 years - and they've not had a very quiet life.

 

Nick

[TriumphV8]

I asked SC parts at a show a few years back and they thought that they were BMW M3 .

 

SC parts seems to be married with Limora Germany.

Limora sold the TR-Nord CV shafts which are VW jointed.

 

They decided to go their own way and let them copy by MAPCO.

These are similar except the inner joint normally consisting of the Golf joint

and a spacer and from MAPCO being made as one part.

 

To get spare parts for this shafts is a pain so swapping to this individual joint

from my view is very negative because part can not be replaced with a VW part.

[spiro]

Proof is in the pudding they say, I've fitted mine CV driveshafts in 2007 and done 25k miles with no issues plus a set on my Stag which to date have done 4,500 miles again trouble free.

In total I've fitted them to 14 cars none of which have come back to me. Ask yourself would you like a wheel coming off from old metal fatigue (shaft nut snapping off) ?????

 

Cheers

Spiro

[Motorsport Mickey]

Excellent Spiro, give us a clue... which CV shafts have you fitted to allow others to follow ?

Micky

Edited August 9, 2017 by Motorsport Mickey

[Ragtag]

As I said I know of a few that failed

 

What fails, the hub or the CV shaft?

[TriumphV8]

 

What fails, the hub or the CV shaft?

There are three weak points, where the shafts I had to deal with failed:

 

1.) The aluminium housing, where the wheel bearing sits, is too weak.

It lets the bearing move inside with a terrible noise. I had that three times.

Problem rises dramatically with larger wheel offsets.

 

2.) The sliding travel way is limited and our cars are old. Often the axle is not in the precise

position where it should be. The driveshaft will pop out of the CV joint if too short or

will be pressed into them if too long, Both lets them fail. People are lazy and cause a problem

like with the telescopic dampers where several different lengths are on the market what can

destroy the lever if combined badly with the supporting brackets.

 

3.) The shaft itself is custom made and is massive instead of a tube type what lets them twist

and toothed ends are often a bit too small what gives play in the CV-joint.

[spiro]

Answer to your questions...

I've used CV shafts from Moss and lately those from Classic Drive Developments..

Regarding your question on failure I was referring to the old original UJ type shafts where the nut on the end of the shafts snaps off

Thanks

Spiro

[JohnRoberts]

Hi Guys

 

I have just fitted new hubs and CV jointed shafts, supplied by CDD. Easy to fit and work very well. Had to modify the shock. brackets to reduced the amount of droop

when jacked up. CDD give a max. of 440mm from wheel arch to wheel centre.

 

Regards JohnR

[DaveN]

Seems like they are excellent quality ....and were moaning about the ST design??!

 

Edited November 1, 2017 by DaveN

[graeme]

Seems like they are excellent quality ....and were moaning about the ST design??!

 

 

Hi Dave,

 

Is this your video? The shafts in this video no way resemble the CDD CV shafts which appear to be a much more robust design.

 

Cheers

 

Graeme