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Malbaby

Honeybourne surrey top with HB hard lid fitting problem.

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I have a problem with a gap at the front outside edge of where the top sits on the capping.

Anyone had a similar experience, and if so how to fix.

post-12801-0-59947900-1499232819_thumb.jpg

post-12801-0-71544600-1499232863_thumb.jpg

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Forget the top for a moment, what's the fit like of the window glass against windscreen frame when it's up ?

 

It maybe an illusion but it looks to me like the windscreen rake angle is too acute, ie it leans backwards too much.

 

Mick Richards

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The rake is OK as the door glass sits OK...it is the vee shape gap at the front outer edge at the A pillar that is the concern.

I think that the shape of the top itself is probably not correctly moulded at that part.

Thinking the only way is to use some extra rubber seal material.

Edited by Malcolm Linda Baker

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If it's a new Honeybourne purchase what about having a word with them about it, send them the photos.

 

Mick Richards

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It's not unusual. The front seal from TRF is very thick and shaped in such a way that it will fill the gaps on both ends but you also need to fit the proper seals on the sides of the lid, not those provided by Honeybourne. Also the thickness of the front edge of the lid looks more than 5mm while mine is not more than 3mm. This lid looks very raw material.

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Mick...I contacted Honeybourne some time ago about the quality? of their product. Managed to get a partial monetary compensation for the extra work that I had to do just to get the finish [ripples out] to a reasonable standard. I also deleted their alloy side drip rails....Do not know if HB have modified their moulding for the front A pillar fitment defect.

Sending the top back to the UK from Australia was not an option.

 

Steph...Thanks again....I will be fitting your side seals design that I previously contacted you about.

Edited by Malcolm Linda Baker

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Sorry Malcolm didn't realise you were in Oz, I'd encourage everybody to put some more detail in on the profiles such as Stef does in his posts from Malaysia or even myself in Nottinghamshire, you get better advice rather than me encouraging a multi thousand mile return of parts !

I guess Stuart from Watermill Carriage company could give better advice ( I think he has a Honeybourne fibreglass Surrey set up) and restores TRs for a living, but I reckon he's at the International this weekend like many others, perhaps early next week you can get better ideas from him.

 

Mick Richards

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I am still away at the moment but I am about to look at a similar hardtop locally, the original type front seal is quite a thick sponge but looking at your pictures the header rail capping doesnt look right to me, not only does it not extend to the ends at the front it also appears to bend down at each end more than usual. It should be almost level where the door rubber comes up to. Im away at the moment and dont have many pictures on this laptop but if you zoom in on this one may illustrate what I mean though mine had only the ordinary capping you may be able to tell how the ends go which when combined with the thick seal may help

Stuart.

 

post-3753-0-33205500-1499701549_thumb.jpg.

Edited by stuart

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Thanks Stuart,

I see what you mean from the pic you posted...It is a lot different from my car.

Just had another look at my car...seems the reproduction screen capping that I bought from Rimmers is not the correct profile at the ends.

Searched the other suppliers, they mostly list the same part number... do not know if they are all from the same supplier....anybody know?

Edited by Malcolm Linda Baker

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Thanks Stuart,

I see what you mean from the pic you posted...It is a lot different from my car.

Just had another look at my car...seems the reproduction screen capping that I bought from Rimmers is not the correct profile at the ends.

Searched the other suppliers, they mostly list the same part number... do not know if they are all from the same supplier....anybody know?

I buy either the Moss one or try and pick up reasonable s/hand ones, not sure if they all come from the same supplier.

Stuart.

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Hi Malcolm/Stuart,

I bought a couple of Moss screen cappings about two years ago.

 

The side section where the fluffy bit sits in is pointing to far downward compared to original (WHY!!!)

 

Not a problem with the surrey soft top but would be an issue with the hard top.

 

Annoyingly these side sections can't be reformed upwards without doing damage to the capping.

 

Roger

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Honeybourne fitted a new hard top to my TR7 last year and they used thick self adhesive neoprene rubber sections to close the gaps at the front of the roof. From recollection the rubber was about 25 x 25mm (ie 1" x 1").

 

GRP molding is not nearly as exact as a steel pressing so I am not surprised at the fit, but have been pleased with my roof. It is a lot quieter than the original hood and you can leave the windows down without any problem at legal speeds. The only problem has been the front latches, taken off the original hood, rattling. I have mainly resolved this by wrapping the handles in rubber, but it will have to wait for my return to the UK to fix permanently.

 

Cheers

 

Howard

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The side section where the fluffy bit sits in is pointing to far downward compared to original (WHY!!!)

 

 

 

I think this will not happen if you fit a strip of sealant under the capping or on the edge of the windscreen frame.

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Hi Malcolm,

 

The capping you have looks rather odd, the front folded edge appears to have been reduced in length and I cannot see any place to fix the end pop rivet.

 

Also it visually appears to be sitting too far back - I think it should slightly overhang the front of the windscreen frame to allow the Surrey Top to be folded under.

 

Regards, Richard

 

Photos below of an original Surrey Top capping :

 

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2%20-%20Underside_zps4mqcrnuc.jpg

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Thanks Richard...my surrey top has only the hard lid.

The repro capping that I fitted has a different profile than the original. The original as per your pic has a higher front ridge from the flat section where the rivet at the end of the capping is fixed to the frame.

Rather than buy another repro capping I plan to refit my original capping that I will have reanodised....That should help close the problem gap.

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Hi Malcolm,

can you start a new thread regarding the 're-anodizing' of the cap.

It has been mentioned before but definitive outcomes have been thin on the ground.

 

I was warned off re-anodizing by a big workshop near me. The said removing the original anodizing would damage the item significantly.

 

Roger

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I had mine powder coated. The problem is I had it done before fettling the forward lip to accommodate the over thick Surrey top metal strips. This has crazed the finish in that area but otherwise it's good.

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