DaveN Posted October 28, 2018 Report Share Posted October 28, 2018 Wrap some Kevlar around the bell housing and it’ll be fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 28, 2018 Report Share Posted October 28, 2018 (edited) On 10/22/2018 at 9:19 PM, Hamish said: This one is mine for the 3a done by the PO in the ‘70’s I think. But it’s still 8.9kg. Hi Hamish, Here is one 'off the shelf' new at 10 lbs not kg. Fitting the ring gear will add weight of course. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fidanza-Aluminum-Flywheel-54-65-Triumph-TR4-All-65-67-Triumph-TR4A-2-1L/232788640975?fits=Model%3ATR4A|Make%3ATriumph&epid=195055798&hash=item363348c4cf:g:LG8AAOSwIzBbD8mO PS I have posted this before. Peter W Edited October 28, 2018 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted October 28, 2018 Report Share Posted October 28, 2018 45 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Hi Hamish, Here is one 'off the shelf' new at 10 lbs not kg. Fitting the ring gear will add weight of course. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fidanza-Aluminum-Flywheel-54-65-Triumph-TR4-All-65-67-Triumph-TR4A-2-1L/232788640975?fits=Model%3ATR4A|Make%3ATriumph&epid=195055798&hash=item363348c4cf:g:LG8AAOSwIzBbD8mO PS I have posted this before. Peter W Nice bit of engineering art and function. You shouldn’t be tempting me like this. I can’t afford the bits I need let alone want. The od logic switch is on Birthday list. And I’m hitting mid 50’s !! H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 28, 2018 Report Share Posted October 28, 2018 1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Hi Hamish, Here is one 'off the shelf' new at 10 lbs not kg. Fitting the ring gear will add weight of course. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fidanza-Aluminum-Flywheel-54-65-Triumph-TR4-All-65-67-Triumph-TR4A-2-1L/232788640975?fits=Model%3ATR4A|Make%3ATriumph&epid=195055798&hash=item363348c4cf:g:LG8AAOSwIzBbD8mO PS I have posted this before. Peter W They arent as good as they make out, the two parts have been known to move and start fretting. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted October 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2018 Which two parts, Hamish? The ring gear or the friction plate against the body of the wheel? Just interested. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 28, 2018 Report Share Posted October 28, 2018 1 hour ago, john.r.davies said: Which two parts, Hamish? The ring gear or the friction plate against the body of the wheel? Just interested. John Those Fidanza flywheels are a composite of Ally and steel and the surface the driven plate runs on has been known to fret against the body, I think Guy (Jersey Royal) had that problem with one a few years ago. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted October 28, 2018 Report Share Posted October 28, 2018 3 hours ago, stuart said: Those Fidanza flywheels are a composite of Ally and steel and the surface the driven plate runs on has been known to fret against the body, I think Guy (Jersey Royal) had that problem with one a few years ago. Stuart. Yep What a mess it was. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted March 25, 2019 Report Share Posted March 25, 2019 Back to the show and tell tools theme. I have just finished replacing the head gasket on my 3a including adjusting the liner heights - one was too low. The picture shows the puller I used to remove the liners. It's a short length of RHS which I slid down inside the liner once the piston was out. The two rubber bands and paper clips were used to hold it in position. The yoke came from my bearing puller set and sat upon a couple bits of wood on either side of the block to give clearance for the liner to rise. Having clipped the RHS into position it was a matter of moments to slide the threaded rod down through the centre and slide under the vehicle to put a washer plus nut on the other end. Tighten the nut at the top and up came the liner. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted March 25, 2019 Report Share Posted March 25, 2019 2 hours ago, Ian Vincent said: Back to the show and tell tools theme. I have just finished replacing the head gasket on my 3a including adjusting the liner heights - one was too low. The picture shows the puller I used to remove the liners. It's a short length of RHS which I slid down inside the liner once the piston was out. The two rubber bands and paper clips were used to hold it in position. The yoke came from my bearing puller set and sat upon a couple bits of wood on either side of the block to give clearance for the liner to rise. Having clipped the RHS into position it was a matter of moments to slide the threaded rod down through the centre and slide under the vehicle to put a washer plus nut on the other end. Tighten the nut at the top and up came the liner. Rgds Ian Ian, What did you do to correct the one liner height issue? Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted March 25, 2019 Report Share Posted March 25, 2019 9 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Ian, What did you do to correct the one liner height issue? Cheers Peter W I bought some 0.55mm thick copper sheet and cut a new Fo8 gasket from it and then had the other liner of the pair trimmed to depth at a nearby machine shop. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted March 25, 2019 Report Share Posted March 25, 2019 1 minute ago, Ian Vincent said: I bought some 0.55mm thick copper sheet and cut a new Fo8 gasket from it and then had the other liner of the pair trimmed to depth at a nearby machine shop. Rgds Ian Thanks for the prompt reply. Were the liners 'new' or old ones that had just sunk? There was an issue once with repro liners all being different lengths - so it was pot luck on getting the liner heights correct. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted March 25, 2019 Report Share Posted March 25, 2019 13 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Thanks for the prompt reply. Were the liners 'new' or old ones that had just sunk? There was an issue once with repro liners all being different lengths - so it was pot luck on getting the liner heights correct. Peter W The liners were new ones that were wrongly ‘adjusted’ by the machine shop that did work for me back when the engine was originally rebuilt. They were repros bought in 2011/12. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 25, 2019 Report Share Posted March 25, 2019 Hi Ian, how did you cut your new Fo8. The copper is so thin and the width of the seal so narrow it must be hard to hold. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted March 25, 2019 Report Share Posted March 25, 2019 1 hour ago, RogerH said: Hi Ian, how did you cut your new Fo8. The copper is so thin and the width of the seal so narrow it must be hard to hold. Roger Yes Roger the copper is thin but it is also very soft which makes it easy to cut. I marked the centres of the bores and then used an appropriately sized trepanning tool in a bench drill to cut the centres out while the sheet of copper was clamped to a piece of wood clamped to the baseplate of the bench drill. Cutting the outside was fairly straightforward, I used some metal shears after I has cut out the centres. It took about an hour. As you have probably worked out, 0.55mm is just over 0.021" which gives a useful step up from the standard 0.018" copper gaskets. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 26, 2019 Report Share Posted March 26, 2019 Hi Ian, far too simple. I was thinking of something really complicated. Worth a try for the future. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted March 26, 2019 Report Share Posted March 26, 2019 10 hours ago, Ian Vincent said: Yes Roger the copper is thin but it is also very soft which makes it easy to cut. I marked the centres of the bores and then used an appropriately sized trepanning tool in a bench drill to cut the centres out while the sheet of copper was clamped to a piece of wood clamped to the baseplate of the bench drill. Cutting the outside was fairly straightforward, I used some metal shears after I has cut out the centres. It took about an hour. As you have probably worked out, 0.55mm is just over 0.021" which gives a useful step up from the standard 0.018" copper gaskets. Rgds Ian Hi Ian, What dimension did you come to for the bore centres to each other ? Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted March 26, 2019 Report Share Posted March 26, 2019 100 mm exactly Mick. Hence my earlier post about metric dimensions in an Imperial car. I measured it from an a spare plastic coated steel F08 gasket that I had in the garage and drew myself up a template on Powerpoint. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted March 26, 2019 Report Share Posted March 26, 2019 (edited) 3 hours ago, Ian Vincent said: 100 mm exactly Mick. Hence my earlier post about metric dimensions in an Imperial car. I measured it from an a spare plastic coated steel F08 gasket that I had in the garage and drew myself up a template on Powerpoint. Rgds Ian I recently scanned to pdf the mating faces of some castings to make unobtainable gaskets. Printed them out as a pdf at 100%, stuck print to gasket paper & cut out using home made hole punches and a scalpel on a sheet of lead. I did cut out samples of the printed paper first to check my scan quality/fitment, before scrapping a piece of gasket paper. Went on to check the dimensional positions of the stud holes etc by 'dimensioning' with Minicad an imported TIFF file. Sad bit is my Mac version of Minicad is metric only and the casting are UK 1950's vintage, so the dimensions look like rubbish to my Imperial eye. (example - 5/16" stud clearance hole should be 11/32" or.... 8.73mm) My ancient version of Cadintosh recognises both Imperial and Metric measurement, but does not want to import any file format I can create. Why are these things not easier? Anybody got any other ways to dimension from a scanned object? Fills your day up..... Cheers Peter W PS The gaskets fit fine. Edited March 26, 2019 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted March 30, 2019 Report Share Posted March 30, 2019 Looks ridiculous but my spanners are too tick to get between the coil of the bonnet latch spring to tighten the counter nut until I found a slim IKEA spanner would do the trick with a bit of filing to adjust it to size. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted March 30, 2019 Report Share Posted March 30, 2019 9 hours ago, Geko said: Looks ridiculous but my spanners are too tick to get between the coil of the bonnet latch spring to tighten the counter nut until I found a slim IKEA spanner would do the trick with a bit of filing to adjust it to size. Ideal for getting the bonnet to pack nicely flat :-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted March 30, 2019 Report Share Posted March 30, 2019 11 hours ago, Geko said: Looks ridiculous but my spanners are too tick to get between the coil of the bonnet latch spring to tighten the counter nut until I found a slim IKEA spanner would do the trick with a bit of filing to adjust it to size. I use one that came with a new washing machine to adjust the feet for levelling. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted April 1, 2019 Report Share Posted April 1, 2019 On 3/31/2019 at 3:04 AM, stillp said: I use one that came with a new washing machine to adjust the feet for levelling. Pete You made me think that I too could have kept the one of my new washing machine somewhere and... success !!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted July 25, 2019 Report Share Posted July 25, 2019 I needed to shorten the front stays of my surrey top frame to lower the ridge line which was recently compared to “Oblio’s hat” This little tool made from a scrap of aluminium bar did a fine job squeezed in the vice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted July 25, 2019 Report Share Posted July 25, 2019 Hmmmm, this reminds me of my tool for making stays for one of my motorcyles. Unfortunately it was worn after making the stays - but fortunately the stays are very durable. Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 31, 2019 Report Share Posted July 31, 2019 (edited) On returning from 2 week boating hols on River & canals, I removed the LED floodlight from front of boat for safe keeping. On moving from boat to jetty I slipped, & in saving myself I managed to drop the lamp into the water. A lot of bad words were said (damm, bother etc) I know more of less where it went, but water is around 2½ meters deep, & not "see through". So this afternoon I made a giant version of the tool most of us have for picking up things which drop behind cuboards etc Used a length of 22mm copper pipe (in stock), & a shorter length of 15mm. cut four slots in 15mm one (bandsaw), soldered a turned down brass nut into the end, inserted a length of rope through the nut hole (with a knot in the end), & cut a "V" notch in the 2mm pipe to lock the rope into. the 4 parts of the 15mm pipe were them bent as shown. Tomorrow I will see if it works. (fingers crossed) Bob. Edited July 31, 2019 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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