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Modified and fabricated tools - Show & Tell


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Idea came up in another thread - tools you have modified or even fabricated yourself, that may be useful to others.

 

Here's two of mine:

 

Angled spanners. I have Malcolm Jones's 'overhead' Pi throttle linkage, that has droplinks down to the butterfly spindles, between the throttle bodies. They need to be adjusted for length, and have small spherical bearing at each end, with opposite threads, so the link bar can be turned to do that. But the lock nut at the bottom is inaccessible without these 8 and 10mm spanners, whose open ends have been cut off and welded back on at an angle.

 

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Limited access puller. The radiator is right in front of the engine on a Vitesse, no space to use a convenional tripod puller. I made this to do the job. It's a bar with short 'jaws' at each end, bolted on so that the distance from the jaw tip to the bar can be adjusted by spacer washers, for different thicknesses of pulley. Place it across the pulley and undo the pulley bolt. As the bolt comes out, the pressure on the bar pulls the pulley off. A useful trick is to place a small bead of weld exactly where the bolt head centre presses on the bar, which stops it wandering off centre.

 

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What have you got?

JOhn

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A lightweight drain plug remover which lives in the travelling tool kit. 

Well, the "special" tool, even with a torch attached, failed to locate the lamp. It was excellent at recovering various small logs, and large stones though. Luckily I had taken along a Plan B - a

Hi, this was one of the first tools I made for my TR4A about 10 years ago, very durable and still in use... Shure someone else has one like this in use and posted it already.

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I made up this puller from a wire wheel adapter for the rear hubs.................................it didn't work :( but then again, it didn't break, which was the fate of a couple I tried before.

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Steve

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Not really a modified tool, bit a neat trick i thought!

 

Method to separate the diff side shaft tapers so as to be able to replace the seals, worked well and saved a trip to use a press.

 

Steve

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Steve

 

To get my hubs off I made up two plates 30mm thick (that was all I had) and flame cut out a large hole ( half in each plate) and finally ground it to suit the bearing diameter so that it was fully supported when I put it under a 10 Ton press, to prevent buckeling . If you have read William's book he warns you that they come out with a hell of a bang, so leave the axle nut on a few turns so that the half shafts don't hit the floor when they come off..

I have toyed with the idea of modifying the engine crane cylinder and the main frame to make up such a press.

 

Dave

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I watched Glen Hewett (Protek) dismantle my rear hub last week.

He removed the split pin, undid the nut and removed the washer.

Then he replaced the nut, but reversed, so that the slots for the split pin were near the hub.

He wound the nut to the point where it was exactly flush with the end of the half shaft, thus protecting the thread and leaving a small gap (about washer thickness) between hub and nut.

It took just over 10 tons to separate hub and half shaft, and it certainly creates an impressive bang!

Glen says that he has seen 20 tons required to separate some hubs.

 

Ian Cornish

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I watched Glen Hewett (Protek) dismantle my rear hub last week.

He removed the split pin, undid the nut and removed the washer.

Then he replaced the nut, but reversed, so that the slots for the split pin were near the hub.

He wound the nut to the point where it was exactly flush with the end of the half shaft, thus protecting the thread and leaving a small gap (about washer thickness) between hub and nut.

It took just over 10 tons to separate hub and half shaft, and it certainly creates an impressive bang!

Glen says that he has seen 20 tons required to separate some hubs.

 

Ian Cornish

Hi Ian

 

Never thought of reversing the castle nut to bring full bearing area to the press cylinder, good idea! but otherwise as per glen's method.

Quite a bang ain't it? I was using my local garage's press, and when it went bang the one assistant mechanic came running in to see if something was wrong.

 

DAve

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Thanks for the suggestions,

I bought a pair of hubs after the studs pulled out of one of them, I replaced the failed one and have been trying to remove the other now and again ever since ( it was 16 years ago!!) so I'll get it done one day :) I'll grind through the hub along the line of the woodruff key.

I found with the other one that once you cut through some of the hub there'll be enough flex to pop it off.

Steve

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Andrew and Roger

 

Mine is the same but it is fixed to a free standing frame I put on the bench, then put a wheel up for cleaning the spokes etc./ back and front, Also good for static wheel balance test taken at 12 positions around the wheel using the nozzle for the points.

 

Dave

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Advice please. Fabric roof / tonneau.c

I am thinking of attaching (welding) one of the roof dot fastener, cup and punch to the jaws of a G clamp to give better control of the riveting action. Has anyone done this? Will it work? Will it work better?

 

 

Alan

Edited by barkerwilliams
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Advice please. Fabric roof / tonneau.c

I am thinking of attaching (welding) one of the roof dot fastener, cup and punch to the jaws of a G clamp to give better control of the riveting action. Has anyone done this? Will it work? Will it work better?

 

 

Alan

Probably better to do it to a pair of Mole grips

Stuart.

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Rhine's request (http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/62608-tr6-pushrods-anyone/&do=findComment&comment=536155) reminded me of these - dummy cam follower-cum-pushrods for timing the camshaft.

Two hard wood dowels, wrapped in insulating tape to slide smoothly in the cam follower bores.

Pop dial guages on top and it's even easier to do "Equal lift on overlap"

 

John

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Edited by john.r.davies
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