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Hi

 

From my favourite driving position I find it difficult to depress the clutch pedal all the way and sometimes I kind of scratch the gears... Not good!

 

 

What's the answer, other than some surgical addition to my leg! I thought of covering the pedal with some metal extension that would take the normal pedal rubber , but maybe there are smarter answers out there.

 

Regards

 

Camilo

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Are you sure it's because the clutch isn't depressed enough. There is no syncro between first and second so if you try to change down while moving it will crunch. Similarly, first to second needs revs matching a little to get a smooth change?

 

Other than that, apart from moving the seat forwards I think you might be a bit stuck. Even the adjustable column won't help (even if you could get one) as the wheel only moves towards you, not nearer the dash.

 

Cuban heels? Stilts?

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Hi Camilo,

assuming you have looked at all the adjustable parts on the car and that the GB and clutch are doing what they should then you are running out of ideas.

 

It is very possible to make an extension to the clutch pedal or even bend the existing pedal (with a little (lot) heat.

If you were really clever you could make an extension similar to the handbrake extension on the back wheel where it does not need any holes drilling.

 

Roger

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The pedal box can be moved forward slightly in its slotted holes. And the seat comes forward a lot, and can even come farther if the rails are moved on the floorboard. Some people fit smaller steering wheels to give clearance as they move forward.

 

The idea of extension blocks on the pedals sounds unsafe, unless done to a *very* high standard. Don't make that your first choice!

 

 

PS: At 198 cm tall in bare feet, this is NOT a problem I have. But I have moved the pedal box and seat rails to actuate the clutch on my car -- just in the other direction.

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I have to be one of the shortest people here at a whopping 5ft 6inches (167 cm) tall and with the seat all the way forward I can just operate the pedals. Getting into first and third gears is a bit of a stretch for me since my arms are proportionally short too.

 

Stan

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Hi

 

Stan: I am 1.72 (I think I used to be 1.74...but old age!) and like to drive with a largish angle at the elbow, say 135º or thereabouts. In my TR I mus be around 90º, if not less, in order to reach the pedals, especially the clutch.

 

Roger: could you expand on the "extension similar to the handbrake extension on the back wheel". I did not get it...

 

Don: what pedal-box are you referring to? Where is it, in the engine compartment?

 

Thank you all!

Edited by qim
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Hi Camilo,

the normal handbrake lever on the brake back plate is not long enough on the TR4A/5/6 to give an effect.

You can buy on ebay and extension (not usually required on the TR2/3/3A/4) that simply sits on the original lever and uses an existing hole to bolt it together.

This extends it by about 1" or so

 

Something similar could be adapted for your clutch pedal.

My other suggestion of bending the clutch pedal to suit is possibly a better idea.

 

The pdeal box is the item holding the clutch and brake pedal onto the bulkhead. This has a little play in its attachments.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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Hi Roger

 

Maybe that's the answer, but as I try to keep the car as original as I can, I am going to look for an extra pedal so that I can keep the original safe until I grow up!.

 

Do you know if the clutch pedal is identical in a RHD and a LHD? and if they come separate from the brake pedal?

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Having very short legs, I had just this problem on my TR4, but a few years ago I bought an adjustable pushrod for the clutch master cylinder from Revington and it solved my problem. I can't say whether a similar fix is available for the TR2/3, but worth enquiring.

Ian Cornish

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Hi Camilo

 

Are you saying that you can't reach the clutch pedal at all or just can't get it depressed all the way down to the floor?

 

If the latter, one option may be to adjust the bite point of the clutch so, instead of the clutch engaging/disengaging with the pedal near the floor (at the bottom of it's travel), it bites nearer the top. You'll get used to the changed bite point.

 

Adjust this at either the the actuating rod at the pedal box or the one down at the clutch end.

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If the latter, one option may be to adjust the bite point of the clutch so, instead of the clutch engaging/disengaging with the pedal near the floor (at the bottom of it's travel), it bites nearer the top. You'll get used to the changed bite point.

 

Adjust this at either the the actuating rod at the pedal box or the one down at the clutch end.

 

I'm afraid I am not technically smart enough to understand where these things are/how they operate. Any chance of am image showing where the work is done?

 

I had the workshop today fuddle with the lever by the master cylinder. Is that what you mean? It feels a bit better, but still need more.

 

PS

 

I take it that by the "actuating rod" you mean the rod by the master cylinder for both brakes and clutch; and by "clutch end" it is probably under the car by the slave cylinder. Is that it?

 

How much do you think can be achieved doing that: 1/2 inch?

Edited by qim
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Camilo, I have a spare Clutch pedal if you are not fixed up yet.

 

Hi is it for a LHD?

 

I still have the full set from when the car was RHD but understand that for a LHD it is a different one.

Edited by qim
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Camilo, According to the S-T Spare parts book the clutch pedals are the same for LHD & RHD if you have Girling Hydraulics (i.e. from TS13046 onwards). The earlier Lockheed system has unique clutch pedals that don't interchange from LHD to RHD. So if you have the old RHD pedals you have a spare clutch pedal already!

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I'm afraid I am not technically smart enough to understand where these things are/how they operate. Any chance of am image showing where the work is done?

I had the workshop today fuddle with the lever by the master cylinder. Is that what you mean? It feels a bit better, but still need more.

 

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/clutch-transmission-drivetrain/clutch-systems/girling-clutch-hydraulics-tr3-from-c-ts13046.html

 

Hi Camilo,

 

In the above link to the clutch hydraulic system, you have a Pushrod (64) at the Master Cylinder and another (78) at the Slave Cylinder - each with a Fork End Kit (61 & 80) and lock nut. By loosening the lock nut, you can screw the Push Rod in or out to adjust it's length. This will alter the bite point of the clutch as you depress/release the clutch pedal.

 

If you want the bite point to be earlier in the clutch pedal's travel (if my logic is right) you need to lengthen the Pushrod at either the Master or Slave Cylinders or both. The ability to adjust at the Master Cylinder end may be limited.

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Perhaps try move the cutch push rod to the upper hole in the clutch cross shaft lever?

If your problem is short legs but not weak legs, qim, that might help your clutch release with less-than-full pedal travel.

Edited by Don H.
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move the cutch push rod to the upper hole in the clutch cross shaft lever

 

Hi Don

 

In the page below where is the "upper hole", or the "cross shaft lever"? I can't see any holes. I understood that the way to do it is to turn the Nut #60 or #79

 

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/clutch-transmission-drivetrain/clutch-systems/girling-clutch-hydraulics-tr3-from-c-ts13046.html

Edited by qim
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