DIY Waxoil

[marki]

Hi Justin.

Don't worry the more info I can get the better as I'm not very keen on drilling holes in chassis and cill.

Hi Roger.

I also have no visable drain holes in the cill, would I be able to just drill front and back of the cill, or also along the length. If so where about ?

Cheers Mark.

[RogerH]

Hi Mark,

I think Stuart needs to answer that one.

I was under the impression that the inner lip of the floor pan had the holes in from its pressing.

 

You do not want standing water in the sills for any length of time.

 

Holes in the front and rear only allow access to spray stuff in - no good for draining.

 

Roger

[marki]

Thanks Roger.

I'll await Stuart's response.

Mark.

[stuart]

There should be drain holes in the drop section of the floor where it meets the lower edge of the outer sill at each end, unfortunately that section rots for a pastime and usually gets repaired with a flat sheet as its easy to weld it to the bottom lip of the sill. In which case you need to drill some holes Im afraid as low as possible in the back side so water can drain and air can circulate, As to getting rustproofing in there if you have replaced the inner sills then the only ones available new now are the TR6 type that have slotted holes in them so you can use them, just lift the sill carpet. If by any slim chance you have original TR4/5 inners then thats the best place to drill some holes for access as they are inside the car.

Stuart.

Edited May 16, 2017 by stuart

[marki]

Thanks Stuart.

Just to be 100% before I get the drill out, do you have any pics or diagrams ?

Lifting the inner cill carpet and drilling I'm fine with but it exactly where on the lower section.

Cheers Mark.

[Kevo_6]

Hi Mark & Roger

 

I have the drain holes, they are half moon shaped. Looking from underneath. As Roger and Stuart say they are in the drop section of the floor where it meets the lower edge of the outer sill. I have from my recollection about 4 or 5 each side.

Edited May 16, 2017 by Kevo_6

[John Bracher]

Mark

If you buy Dinotrol from their site (https://www.dinitroldirect.com/), try using the code 'MX5OC' in the voucher code box if still there/valid.

I found this got me 10% off!

Thanks MX5 Owners Club!!

:) :)

[kob666e]

Hi Justin,

you must have drain holes in the sill. Water WILL get in even if you think they are sealed.

 

I take it that the insides of the sills are painted.

 

Roger

I was having a gawk underneath only last week and saw no drain holes.

 

Body had a rebuild by TRBitz mid naughties and AFAIK both sills were replaced, (regards to paint: your guess is as good as mine!), need to do more investigating.

 

Think I'll be lifting the carpet and waxoyling from inside as per Stuart's recommendation.

[RogerH]

I was having a gawk underneath only last week and saw no drain holes.

 

Body had a rebuild by TRBitz mid naughties and AFAIK both sills were replaced, (regards to paint: your guess is as good as mine!), need to do more investigating.

 

Think I'll be lifting the carpet and waxoyling from inside as per Stuart's recommendation.

 

Hi Justin,

when I said you 'MUST' have drain holes that was a command not an observation.

As you don't have the drain holes somehow try to ensure that inside the sill stays dry and contains NO standing water. If you go out in the wet it will get in.

 

Both the Concorde and the Space shuttle suffered from water getting into structure that was 100% sealed (apparently)

 

Roger

[stuart]

Thanks Stuart.

Just to be 100% before I get the drill out, do you have any pics or diagrams ?

Lifting the inner cill carpet and drilling I'm fine with but it exactly where on the lower section.

Cheers Mark.

Holes are here

Stuart.

 

 

[marki]

Thanks Stuart.

[kob666e]

Holes are here

Stuart.

Marks TR5 228.jpg

Marks TR5 229.jpg

Errrrrr, no!

 

No sign of any openings other than where the inner vertical profile of the sill meets the outer curved profile, these are butt jointed together so I take it the water can escape between them all along the length of the sill.

 

So should I be drilling holes along the inner side of the sill just to be sure? I drilled into the cavity from inside the car and it all looks well.

[DaveN]

The rust will soon make its hole where its most convenient!

[stillp]

When drilling, plaster the drill bit with grease to try to trap the swarf. Little bit of swarf will soon rust, and the rust will then spread...

 

Pete

[RogerH]

Errrrrr, no!

 

No sign of any openings other than where the inner vertical profile of the sill meets the outer curved profile, these are butt jointed together so I take it the water can escape between them all along the length of the sill.

 

So should I be drilling holes along the inner side of the sill just to be sure? I drilled into the cavity from inside the car and it all looks well.

 

Hi Justin,

for interests sake - where the floor drop flange is welded to the outer sill at the bottom that is a lap joint - one skin over'laps' the other.

A butt joint is where the edges of the skins joint together.

 

There should be no/little gap at this joint other wise moisture/water will sit in it and cause corrosion.

If any waxoyl type product has been used inside the sill then the gaps at this joint will probably be blocked.

 

Somebody needs to very carefully introduce some drain holes along the floor drop flange.

 

Roger

[marki]

Hi Roger.

If I was to drill the inner cill and introduce Dinitrol, would the liquid show from the bottom edge of the cill ?

Cheers Mark.

[RogerH]

Hi Mark,

not sure. The inner sill is above the floor inside the cabin. Do you mean the floor drop flange that attaches to the out sill lower flange.

 

Any wet/fluid covering will run downwards. Dinitrol sets quite quickly and cleans off easily.

I have noticed that Waxoyl takes a while to set and mean time drips from where ever. Once set- no more drips.

 

Roger

[marki]

Hi Roger.

I presume that's where I mean, it's covered in carpet.

Mark.

[RogerH]

Hi Mark,

right - the inner sill is inside the cabin on the floor.

If it had holes in then you would be able to see the bottom of the sill where cavity and the joint at the bottom.

The preservative would drip through to the outside until it sets.

 

Your carpets will be safe.

 

Roger

[marki]

Got me going now... I'm drilling no 81 at the top where it is covered in carpet ?

Sorry to be a bit dithery, I get a bit funny about drilling holes....

Mark.

[RogerH]

Hi mark,

yes 81 is the inner sill. If you put holes in that you will be able to access and see into the sill cavity.

 

Roger

[stuart]

There should already be holes in the top of the inner sill along by the door

Stuart.

[marki]

Fanbloodytastic, cheers Roger. I'll buy you an ale at the international.

Mark.

[marki]

Hi Stuart.

I'll have a look when I peal back the carpet.

Mark.

[kob666e]

 

Somebody needs to very carefully introduce some drain holes along the floor drop flange.

 

Roger

Think that responsibility falls upon me then

 

Now the reference to D shaped holes makes sense.

 

Pictures from underneath showing the inner sill and from directly under where the inner and outer meet (with obligatory cow s**t attached thrown in for good measure)