Yellowperil Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 My car has developed a fault this week where it fires but won't run. Engine fires up and runs unevenly at about 2000rpm for around 30secs, but won't rev any higher, then dies. When I take the plugs out after a few attempts they are wet with fuel. Never had a problem before. Usually put choke almost in as soon as it fires and keep at fast idle with the throttle for a couple of minutes, then will tick over. 1971 fuel injected car. Any ideas? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 Sounds like idniti0n fault to me, have you touched anything recently? I had something similar when the points wire inside the distributor was rubbing and shorting to earth. Good luck finding the problem! Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 +1 for sparks Check points' gap, then static timing. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
k_raven_smith Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 Try fresh fuell Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Yellowperil Posted May 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 Thanks for the comments guys, I'll check out ignition side of things this afternoon. Fuel should be ok as it's had a couple of runs earlier in the year and been refuelled Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HSM Posted May 13, 2017 Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 I would first suspect ex. fuel pressure due to plugs being wet & only running with open throttle. This would explain sudden failure. Pressure regulators can fail not just on Lucas systems but also on modern cars. See if you can find someone in your area with a suitable gauge & check pressure first. Harvey S. Maitland Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Yellowperil Posted May 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 Checked out ignition side of things and all seems ok. Reading through various posts, saw a mention of blocked hole in fuel cap causing a vacuum which sounded like a possibility, so tried to start with fuel flap open. Burst straight in to life and revved freely. Sat down to dinner smiling for the first time today! Just been back out to car and tried again. Started and revved freely for 2 or 3 mins then died. Back to square one...doh! Fuel flap still open. Guess I must have disturbed something else and fuel flap was just a coincidence. I'd been routing round in boot in fuel pump area. Got an unusual set up in boot, have a facet pump between tank and filter, then two Lucas pumps which I can switch between from dashboard. Anyone seen anything like this before, or maybe know who fitted it like this and why? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted May 13, 2017 Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 (edited) Checked out ignition side of things and all seems ok. Reading through various posts, saw a mention of blocked hole in fuel cap causing a vacuum which sounded like a possibility, so tried to start with fuel flap open. Burst straight in to life and revved freely. Sat down to dinner smiling for the first time today! Just been back out to car and tried again. Started and revved freely for 2 or 3 mins then died. Back to square one...doh! Fuel flap still open. Guess I must have disturbed something else and fuel flap was just a coincidence. I'd been routing round in boot in fuel pump area. Got an unusual set up in boot, have a facet pump between tank and filter, then two Lucas pumps which I can switch between from dashboard. Anyone seen anything like this before, or maybe know who fitted it like this and why?IMG_1195.JPG Looks like previous owner was having overheating problems with one Lucas pump ( the one with the 'cooling' coil). And fitted the second to use when the first overheated. I've never seen the likes before! As sparks are OK take Harvey's advice above. With a pump running thump the Pressure Relief Valve - its on the left side of the car at the side of the fuel tank. It may have stuck shut from disuse.Also check the overflow hose back from the PRV to the top of the tank is not bent shut. There is another current thread where that return pipe has blocked inside the tank during standing....http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/61880-fuel-leak-prv-to-tank-connection/ When the car is stationary it needs b88ger all horsepower to spin the engine so almost the entire output of the pump has to pass back to the tank through the PRV. If it doesn't the fuel pressure in the MU rises far too high, and it can be too rich to fire. Peter Edited May 13, 2017 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted May 13, 2017 Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 Hi Yellowperil, That is a very compicated system you have in the boot of your car, that is not original or the usual1!!!!. If it were me that system would have gone very shortly after me taking ownership! Regarding your current problem, test the fuel line pressure at the M/U s/b about 105 psi running. Get someone else to start the car and you watch the pressure gauge to see if you have pressure drop? Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted May 13, 2017 Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 That double pump system looks very similar to the one the now sadly departed Dr Michael Bingley used to use, mad as a box of frogs, he spent a lot of his time end energies sourcing alternatives to the available unleaded fuel additives back when leaded fuel was withdrawn. Project Green was his baby. I think he also developed a silicone additive that got up the noses of the of the oil and fuel companies 'cos it worked rather well. Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Yellowperil Posted May 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2017 Yes Bruce, my plan is to replace it all with a Bosch pump and modified PRV, just never got around to it. Maybe now is the time.... SWMBO out to lunch today, so I'll have time for a bit more tinkering with it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted May 14, 2017 Report Share Posted May 14, 2017 Yes Bruce, my plan is to replace it all with a Bosch pump and modified PRV, just never got around to it. Maybe now is the time.... SWMBO out to lunch today, so I'll have time for a bit more tinkering with it. I wish you good luck on the Bosch pump conversion, unfortunately it seems now that all of the 3 Bosch pumps that I know of that work on the Triumph PI system are now obsolete, without any current replacement as per Bosch Motorsport. So if you are able to find one that is currently made that works. I would be interested to know the part number as my Bosch is the original conversion one and its 35+ years old. I think that I maybe on borrowed time. Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted May 14, 2017 Report Share Posted May 14, 2017 There is another thread today with a 996 pump for sale. It is used but still probably the best pump for a pi tr. Add a sytec pre-filter and have the prv set up/serviced by Neil Fergussen and all will be good. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Yellowperil Posted May 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2017 Sorted, took PRV apart and blew it through, plus emptied fuel filter. Had a good run, back to normal now. Debris from fuel filter, think I'm going to have to flush the tank Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted May 14, 2017 Report Share Posted May 14, 2017 Hurrah! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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