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Brake drum problem


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While still mulling over what to do about my suspension (see earlier post!) I decided to do some routine maintenance on the rear brakes. Car on the stands and wheels off, the offside drum did just as it should and came off easily. But on the nearside the hub was jammed solid - I couldn't even turn it with the wheel on. I checked the handbrake cable and that seems to be free enough.

The brake adjuster will 'rock' between the flats on the adjuster screw, but even with a fair bit of pressure it didn't want to unwind from one flat to another. The wheel was obviously turning when the car went into the garage before I jacked it up, or I guess I would have noticed something.

 

So what to do? Do I just increase the pressure on the adjuster until it moves or breaks (!), or would it help to unbolt the adjuster from the brake plate. Or is there some other fiendish trick I could use to free it?

 

All ideas welcome

 

Thanks

Terry

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I would apply WD40 or similar on the adjuster bolt several times and leave for a day or 2.

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Hi Waldi,

 

Thanks, I have tried that, but I don't think the adjuster is seized at all because I can move it quite easily on the thread. The problem seems to be that the shoes are so hard against the drum that the adjuster has no room to click over.

 

Cheers

 

Terry

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Hello Terry, had you left it with the handbrake 'on'? If so, it's the handbrake mechanism that will need your attention. Try disconnecting the cable 'shoe', and gently tapping the lever arm side to side, and up and down. It will let go with a clang. Let us know how you get on, please. Austin

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Thanks for all the ideas. The handbrake is never left on. The cable seems loose, but I will try a bit more gentle persuasion.

 

Good idea Roger, but I am confident that I am turning the correct way.

 

Neil?

 

Thanks

 

Terry

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Hi Terry

 

If you remove the drum retaining screw and give the face of the drum a few 'clouts' with a copper hammer it might help ease the shoes against the drum enough to move the adjuster one segment (anti- clockwise).

 

After that it should get easier. But sometimes the sliding inserts inside the adjuster can also become seized. Make sure your aduster spanner is a good fit on the square.

 

Regards

 

Kevin

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With both retaining screws removed from the drum , use a hammer & a short cold chisel (or small block of wood) on the backside drum outer-edge to pound the drum off the hub.

You can also pound around the side of the drum. Get into it with the pounding, it'll be all too brief.

(Much like Kevin wrote.)

Go round and round, it'll slide off eventually.

The scored edge of the inner drum surface just needs to slide over the brake shoes enough- drum has no where else to go but off.

Edited by Sapphire72
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Well, 15 minutes with a big 'ammer and a drift and the drum is off. One seized adjuster as expected, plus one brake shoe with an inch of material broken off the end - wonder where that went?!

 

Anyway, I can now get on with a proper overhaul, so thanks again for all the help

 

Cheers

 

Terry

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  • 2 years later...

In my shop is a TR-6.  The rear wheels DO NOT move from years of sitting in a humid climate. The most likely reason is rusted hand brake cables.  I don’t know if it is most likely the front cable or the rear.  I can’t even see either of them.  I’ve sent fit a manual, but it may not show any access to them.  Any suggestions on which one, and how to access them?  

.

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Hi Brent,

welcome to the forum.

There should be only one cable going to each drum.  There will also be a copper/steel pipe for the foot brake.

Have you tried to  slacken the shoes with the square headed adjuster.?

 

Roger

 

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Did a set of drum brakes recently that had been sat for years & seized solid - turned out to be the brake linings on the shoes that had seperated from the metal due to corrosion & then wedged themselves solidly up against the drum so even with the adjusters backed off fully they wouldn't budge - copious amounts of plus gas, a drift & big hammer required  - got there in the end.

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Not sure what this has to do with stuck brake drums but I recommend Varta G8 at least if you are not worried about non-original appearance, 95Ampere Hour and 830 CCA. You can find on ebay for £85.50 free delivery right now. The G8 is right for the 4A, you need to check which model has then correct dimensions and terminal locations for your car.

Tim

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