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Yes, the exhaust gasket was changed when the exhaust system was replaced, the front down pipes were the first to go on to ensure the gasket seated correctly. I'll check the advance today. I'm confident that TDC is TDC as I checked it when the head was off in the winter.

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Yes, the exhaust gasket was changed when the exhaust system was replaced, the front down pipes were the first to go on to ensure the gasket seated correctly. I'll check the advance today. I'm confident that TDC is TDC as I checked it when the head was off in the winter.

Are you missing the cryptic advice here that S-P-M-P-W has given?

The gasket stud holes are symmetrical, thus it can be fitted so the gas flow holes in it block the holes in the pipe. - It is not error proofed by having offset studs.

Peter W

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Are you missing the cryptic advice here that S-P-M-P-W has given?

The gasket stud holes are symmetrical, thus it can be fitted so the gas flow holes in it block the holes in the pipe. - It is not error proofed by having offset studs.

Peter W

Ooh, thats a good one!

 

I'm still intrigued by this thread, keenly awaiting the outcome !

 

Steve

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Yes, thanks for the heads up. I've checked the advance today with the strobe and at 2500 rpm it's at 25 BTDC, during acceleration it moves from 12 @ 700 rpm smoothly to 25 and remains there. I've also fitted the magencor leads too. Starting was immediate from cold after letting the pump run which is a definite improvement but for now a one off so time will tell if this is a step forwards.

 

During the 6 mile run i had it still feels like it is being held back when cruising at a steady speed 30/40 in 4th, performance under firm acceleration its patchy and not strong, I can also still small the car on me once home. Pulling the choke a bit definatley smooths things.

 

Due to the knocking of the small end I'm stripping the head off and popping the pistons next weekend and will get the head checked over in order to deal with the lower compression on the two cylinders. I'll also check out the gasket situation too.

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Pulling the choke a bit definatley smooths things.

 

this indicates its run,n weak

as pulling choke on a PI actually increases the fuel flow

 

NOT restricting the air as on a carb set up

 

If pulling choke, { excess fuel lever } meks it run OK

it running weak

or, some of the manis, are no opening in sync

this,l give a hicuppy ride at low throttle openings, fixed by adding moer fuel,!!!

 

M

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  • 4 months later...

I thought I should post an update to the problems raised in this thread and how they were in the end resolved. I've not had it re tested on the rolling road but it now feels as it should.

1. the metering unit was recalibrated by Neil who found it was well out of tune despite it being a recent refurb from a reputable supplier,

2. what was the biggest issue I think in the end was the PRV, I bought a new original which initially tested ok but failed after only a few hundred miles providing on 60psi at the metering unit in the end. This has been changed to a diaphragm version which is brilliant, steady fuel pressure being measured and my cold starting is much improved too

3. I've added a relay to the pump wiring which has really helped provide consistent pump performance

4. Identified how important a good battery is, any weakness and the fuel pressure drops on cranking

5. Replaced a broken piston ring causing the low compression on cylinder 2, all now 160

 

Starting and drivability is really good, power through the range etc.

 

My only remaining issue left is the knocking at the top end around cylinder 1&2, there seemed no play in the small ends, big ends fine etc. It's not the tappets so slightly confused, definitely coming from the head or below area, I also visually checked all the cam followers when the head was off and none were showing any damage, one for the winter I think. It's very noticeable and follows the engine revs. At 800rpm you can't actually hear it at all!

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Hi Alan, I replaced the coil in the autumn with the standard Lucas 12v from Rimmers, it also has the standard points set up

 

With respect to the curve I did advise the car spec but looking at the documents on the attached link and my plotted curve there is a difference.

 

I have the 22D6 41298B 768 distributor. Comparing mine to that it is comparable to 1600 rpm where it remains at 8.

 

Question, should it be advancing 12-16 at 2700 upwards as suggested?

 

I'll check what's actually happening with a strobe tomorrow evening or over the weekend and report back. The magnecor leads have also arrived today

 

Hi Alan, I replaced the coil in the autumn with the standard Lucas 12v from Rimmers, it also has the standard points set up

 

With respect to the curve I did advise the car spec but looking at the documents on the attached link and my plotted curve there is a difference.

 

I have the 22D6 41298B 768 distributor. Comparing mine to that it is comparable to 1600 rpm where it remains at 8.

 

Question, should it be advancing 12-16 at 2700 upwards as suggested?

 

I'll check what's actually happening with a strobe tomorrow evening or over the weekend and report back. The magnecor leads have also arrived today

That Lucas part number for your dizzy is not shown in my white BL Manual? Have you got the right one installed?

 

Bruce

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