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Gearbox Tunnel Insulation


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Hi Richard,

anything on the underside will need to be oil and water resistant. And it needs to stay put.

 

Most people are happy with decent carpet underlay and good carpet.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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I saw Jay Leno used Dynamat in a lot of his "restorations" he used it on his Daimler SP250

Expensive tho

H

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The only issue I found with underlay and carpet on top was it restricted the opening of the heater flap. I like the idea of using 'Dynamat' or equivalent on the underside, but as Roger says it needs to stay put.

Bonded on and a few plastic screws, nuts and penny washers, should do the trick.

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Any heat getting into the driving compartment is NOT by radiation from the exhaust pipe!

 

I built a Vitesse with a rear radiator - see pics . It was a very cold car to drive, even on a sunny day.

Which I think proves that ALL the heat that people complain about comes from the radiator, via the hot air it puts out,

Which can get into the driving comp. via all the holes in the bulkhead, often poorly sealed by perished rubber grommets and by the often poor seal of the gearbox cover to the floor.

 

Attention to all that will pay-off far more than expensive heat insulation.

Sound is a different mat-ter (!)

 

John

 

post-535-0-32443500-1493293534_thumb.jpg

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I read that the drag racers use time expired bullet proof vests on the gearbox tunnel to save their legs if a clutch explodes. ,Might even keep the noise down........

 

Peter W

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I used some stuff I bought from Moss on the outside, I.e, cockpit, side of the tunnel and it works well. It's self adhesive cellular construction with an aluminized outer surface. Not very expensive.

 

Rgds Ian

 

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/sound-heat-insulation-material.html

 

Correction, it's not self adhesive, I used spray on glue to hold it in place before the carpets went on top.

Edited by Ian Vincent
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Just one point on all teh above.

 

Make sure whatever you use is, very well fixed, I wouldn't simply use adhesive, but reinforce with

something.

 

Mine came partly adrift, and took a wire off one of the gearbox inhibitor switches.

 

John.

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John

Sorry! can´t necessarily agree. My 3A has wrapped exhaust, underfelt and carpet through out the cab and all grommets were replaced in the rebuild, and all extra holes bunged up, and even on the hottest day here we get no heat discomfort at all. My old A/H 100/6 would burn your legs if they touched the similarly carpeted tunnel. As I have said before on previous messages, I have a suction Kenlow and the usual inlet duct in front of the radiator, and with the exhaust wrapping I get heat evidence out of the rear of the pipe as the over-rider turns straw colour

BTW the tunnel does not fit at all well along the floor pans, so the underlay must be doing it`s job, and it is held down by the carpet and the TR rubber mats as well.

 

Dave

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I used some stuff I bought from Moss on the outside, I.e, cockpit, side of the tunnel and it works well. It's self adhesive cellular construction with an aluminized outer surface. Not very expensive.

 

Rgds Ian

 

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/sound-heat-insulation-material.html

 

Correction, it's not self adhesive, I used spray on glue to hold it in place before the carpets went on top.

I also used some of this - still have loads left - and a very expensive Raceytorations 2-part tunnel

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