88V8 Posted April 24, 2017 Report Share Posted April 24, 2017 (edited) Does my drive look steep in this? That's because it is. And yet, here's the car hanging on the handbrake. I don't usually plug products, but these lever extensions that simply bolt to the brake levers, are the dog's. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Stag-TR4a-TR5-TR6-2000-2500-hand-brake-improver-/352018087890?nma=true&si=Hi5Dn6MXJ2lr05uFYoGEqyCCTt0%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 MOT pass, no problem. Ivor edited to insert correct variant of product, oops Edited April 25, 2017 by 88V8 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kwackersaki Posted April 24, 2017 Report Share Posted April 24, 2017 Says it doesn't fit my '71 TR? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 24, 2017 Report Share Posted April 24, 2017 Contact the seller through ebay. They do fit the TR's Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted April 24, 2017 Report Share Posted April 24, 2017 +1 for Roger Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kwackersaki Posted April 24, 2017 Report Share Posted April 24, 2017 Ok, thanks, I might give them a try. I take it the handbrake is a bit of an issue on the TR? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 24, 2017 Report Share Posted April 24, 2017 On the 4A it is possible to re-position the cable attachment pivot hole on the actual handbrake leaver bu your right thigh. If possible move it closer to the lever pivot. This will give a serious improvement. It maybe that the later TR6;s may already have this improvement. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted April 24, 2017 Report Share Posted April 24, 2017 Hello again Ivor, just shows it does what it says on the tin, good to see your post. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted April 24, 2017 Report Share Posted April 24, 2017 Good to see you back Ivor - any more photos of the Rambler, please ? Presumably an Ambassador ? Makes a change from TRs !! Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRseks Posted April 24, 2017 Report Share Posted April 24, 2017 (edited) I asked the seller in the Ebay ad if the lever extension will fit TR6, he says it does not? Did you get yours from that seller Ivor? Magnus Edited April 24, 2017 by TRseks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted April 25, 2017 Report Share Posted April 25, 2017 I asked the seller in the Ebay ad if the lever extension will fit TR6, he says it does not? Did you get yours from that seller Ivor? Magnus I Bought a Set from Tony Hart for the 6 and they Work OK. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Posted April 25, 2017 Report Share Posted April 25, 2017 I Bought a Set from Tony Hart for the 6 and they Work OK. Strange because the listing in the string above is for Tony, possibly he makes/sells a couple of variants ? I know I had to wait for him to get new stock of the TR ones in Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted April 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2017 (edited) Here's the one I bought. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Stag-TR4a-TR5-TR6-2000-2500-hand-brake-improver-/352018087890?nma=true&si=Hi5Dn6MXJ2lr05uFYoGEqyCCTt0%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 Arrrgh! It's different!! Not been back here 5 minutes and I've caused confusion. Sorry!!! Ivor original post edited. Edited April 25, 2017 by 88V8 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 25, 2017 Report Share Posted April 25, 2017 Get all the adjustment correct and you dont need them, especially on a 5/6 as they dont have the fly off handbrake of the earlier cars and have a finer ratchet action. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted April 25, 2017 Report Share Posted April 25, 2017 +1 for Stuart. i know mine holds really well, took a bit of fiddling to get it set right though including getting the slave cylinders to move freely on the backplate, quite capable of locking the wheels for a handbrake turn! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted April 25, 2017 Report Share Posted April 25, 2017 (edited) The handbrake on all TRs is a very poor contruction. At their time there have been better ones on cheaper cars with the cable going inside the brake drum and a long leaver there pushing on both brake shoes. Anyway - I love my TR4A IRS Edited April 25, 2017 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted April 25, 2017 Report Share Posted April 25, 2017 You think the TR handbrake is ineffective. Try the "umbrella' style handbrake on a lotus Elan +2. You set it up for the MOT it passes and then if you are not careful the pads (which are crazy expensive) have warn away by the time you get home. Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted April 27, 2017 Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 (edited) I had a closer look on the handbrake of my TR4A IRS in 2015 and made some improvements different from a longer leaver that makes the handbrake work very well. But I have a idea for a further improvement in 2018 If wanted I can report. Ciao Marco Edited April 27, 2017 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 27, 2017 Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 Hi Marco, do report back with any updates. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted April 27, 2017 Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 (edited) Hi, I am no car mechanic and could be wrong – but this is what I realized 2015: Handbrakes on TR2-6 are a poor construction but problems grown with the IRS axle. The TR4-system was used again, the brake plate turned 90° backwards and the trust block of the necessary bowden cable was fixed on the only possible point on top of the trailing arm – which is very “unfortunate”. The “real leaver length” is always the line from force / cable to the pivot point in 90° angle. To make the leaver more or less longer does not make it essential better and gives some benefit to the torque and also some benefit to “more way” you have to (or can) pull the cable / handbrake. I did not care more for this fact and left the leavers as they are. The problem for me seems to be to me the trust block for the bowden cable on the trailing arm: it is about 22 – 24 mm too deep. So the leaver is not only pulled in the direction you want but also twisted down. So the shaft of the leaver is wedged and pressed to one single point on the brake plate. To avoid this I made a spacer to lift the trust block up to the point where the clevis is fixed to the leaver. That works very well and the trailing arm is solid enough for that, but I keep a eye on the point it is fixed. Next I found the bowden cables to stiff / not elastic and made what you perhaps know from farming trailers: I added a strong spring (from an old clutch) in the clevis. So I can pull the handbrake in 6 positions, my wife only in 4 , position 2 is OK for normal use, 3 is save. Last I realized my brake shoes working like a block brake on an old wooden carriage, not like a “wedge”, how a simplex or duplex brake drum works. So I made myself o tool to grind the brake shoes on the lathe exactly to the diameter of my old brake drums (it is easier to buy new drums). Additional see the photos from a 2015 thread at Google; guess what 2018 could bring. https://goo.gl/photos/Z6XYgmVZqHLHAeg29 The last photo is from today and shows my TR in the vineyards, the street goes 28% down, handbrake is in position 5 and it is save. As already told: I could be wrong – but it works Do anything of this only when you feel competent enough. Ciao Marco Edited April 28, 2017 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted April 28, 2017 Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 Hi Marco, Gut gemacht:) Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted May 3, 2017 Report Share Posted May 3, 2017 Hi Waldi, thank you for your reply, but looking at the other answers I realize the theme is not interesting. Seems a good working handbrake is total overrated. Ciao Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 3, 2017 Report Share Posted May 3, 2017 Hi Marco, an interesting approach to the problem. Looking forward to 2018 Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stanpartmanpartwolf Posted May 6, 2017 Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 Have we all forgotten to weld up the grooves worn in the backplates by the levers? Do this, free the cylinders off properly & two shoes will contact the drum instead of one. It is that simple. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 6, 2017 Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 Have we all forgotten to weld up the grooves worn in the backplates by the levers? Do this, free the cylinders off properly & two shoes will contact the drum instead of one. It is that simple. Do it all the time, had to last week on a couple, shame someone had painted them without spotting it. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KiwiTR6 Posted May 7, 2017 Report Share Posted May 7, 2017 Have we all forgotten to weld up the grooves worn in the backplates by the levers? Do this, free the cylinders off properly & two shoes will contact the drum instead of one. It is that simple. Stan or Stuart Can you give more detail on how this is done? Checked the Buckeye Triumphs rear brake overhaul page and there doesn't appear to be any mention of this. If it's not too involved, I'll do it to my brakes next time they're apart. Gavin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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