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Tr Shop clutch master and slave

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Hi Guys,

 

I purchased a clutch Master Cylinder and Slave from the TR shop. Clearly manufactured outside the UK? Although the clutch works, the first 1/4 pedal movement is very spongy until the slave moves the clutch rod, the clutch bite point being near the floor. The clutch is new.

I have bled and rebled the system too many times to count, both by the manual way and with an ezybleed. Still the same.

Question: Has anybody else had problems.There is no size marking on the master cylinder, I assume its 3/4 as original.

The clutch on my 72 TR6 using a Girling slave and master fitted some 12 years ago is nice and firm from the start of the pedal movement before reaching the clutch bite point.

I have an original Girling 3/4 master in my spares box but would probably need resleeving , say by Past Parts Ltd, good but more expensive than any repro, but are any repro's good?

Any comments would be appreciated.

 

Cheers

Rich

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I have used the same supplier for both brake and clutch master cylinders and slaves just recently, fitted to a 4a. The lengths of the actuating rods were in need of attention as the new ones were of differing lengths. All worked really well. Check the rods lengths out, sounds like yours is too short.

Paul

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Rich,

 

Based upon long experience, in the TR clutch mech, for it to work properly it will not tolerate any slop or free play. I have just worked on another owners TR6, that suffered from poor operation. Here is a guide to the usual faults found.

 

Nylon pedal shaft bushes needed replacing in clutch & brake pedal.

Clevis pin hole in C/P worn oval. This can be bushed or welded up/ drilled and reamed to size.

Check for S/Cyl. Yoke operating arm for play. It can be bad even when new?

Hydraulic pipe expanding under load.

Clevis pin not in mid- pin hole on cross shaft?

Slave Cyl. bleed nipple not upper most on S/Cyl.

Slave Cyl. not mounted correctly on engine back plate.

Lastly, which I hope it is not. The Taper pin broken on cross shaft?

 

A tip on bleeding the clutch! Take the cap off the master cylinder. Wrap a large rag around the cyl. body. Take out the clevis pin in the slave cyl / cross shaft and push the operating arm right back into the slave cylinder. This will clear out any trapped air in the S/Cyl. Then re- connect!

 

Bruce.

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Some people including myself fit spacers behind the slave cylinder to bring

it closer to the clutch lever to compensate for the shorter operating rod. This

mod. seems to work fine.

 

Harvey S. Maitland

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Make sure they haven't supplied you with a LHD master. The push rod is shorter. This is what happened to me. Took a long time to realise this was the issue. Supplier war TR Shop too.

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Make sure they haven't supplied you with a LHD master. The push rod is shorter. This is what happened to me. Took a long time to realise this was the issue. Supplier war TR Shop too.

Didn't know that Colin, thanks.

 

If there are any more snippets of info relating to LHD cars, I would be grateful to know.

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Thanks Guys,

 

I had a quick feel of the slave pushrod last evening and yes there does seem to be some slack when at rest. So the pushrod is probable shorter than original.

I will set to today and transform the pushrod to an adjustable one using my trusty lathe by cutting in half and threading each end 5/16 UNF, and threading internally say a 2 inch length of a plated 1/2 inch bolt to form the adjuster. Two locknuts and hopefully when the slack is taken out the clutch will be firm.

 

Hopefully this will be the last of the post restoration niggles and I can get some road time. Another TR6 (1969) saved from oblivion!

 

Cheers

Rich

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I had a lot of problems with new hydraulic cylinders on my TR3A. Finally I drove back from the IWE at Lincoln with no clutch.

 

There was an American owner on the forum who bisected an original cylinder and also new casting to allow microscopic inspection. The new ones were very badly finished and the push rods were also different. He posted pictures on the forum.

 

I sent my originals to Past Parts and we have had no problems since.

 

Why can those manufacturers in the far east fail to take enough quality control.

 

Time to go for Drive It Day

 

Richard & H

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Hi Guys,

 

After more futile attemps to get a firm clutch pedal using the above TRW master cylinder, I gave up and rebuilt an original Girling master cylider that I had in my spares box. Heh presto, once fitted I had a normal firm clutch pedal.

Not sure what the problem is with the TWR Master cylinder, but clearly something?

Cheers

Rich

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I had a lot of problems with new hydraulic cylinders on my TR3A. Finally I drove back from the IWE at Lincoln with no clutch.

 

There was an American owner on the forum who bisected an original cylinder and also new casting to allow microscopic inspection. The new ones were very badly finished and the push rods were also different. He posted pictures on the forum.

 

I sent my originals to Past Parts and we have had no problems since.

 

Why can those manufacturers in the far east fail to take enough quality control.

 

Time to go for Drive It Day

 

Richard & H

If the supplier to joe public here in the UK sent out a proper engineering drawing/material spec to the far east manufacturer and exercised basic Q.A. here in the UK . I believe that we would not have all these issues.

 

Bruce. An ex- engineering buyer in the dim and distant past, when we made these parts here in the UK!

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Hi Rich,

Glad you are now sorted, but just to confirm along with others here that I've too had issues when replacing the clutch master cylinder. This was with a TRW one. On inspection compared to the old one I did also confirm that the push rod from pedal to the cylinder was too short. In my case I could carefully remove the circlip on the new cylinder and replace the push rod with the old one from the failed cylinder. This gave me a good firm clutch with a decent biting point (which was all but impossible with the TRW part as supplied)

 

I did feed this back to the supplier (Rimmers) who responded well and they also confirmed that the push rod was wrong and they'd be taking it up with TRW...

 

regards,

James.

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Resurrecting an old thread here, can anyone tell me what the original length of the push rod on the clutch master cylinder should be for a RHD TR6 1974. Cylinder is 0.70 bore. My car already had a TRW replacement cylinder when purchased. Ideally from the front of the ball to the hole centres.

Many thanks in advance.

Sean

 

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Hi Sean, sorry for the late reply.

I have a 1972 TR6 with a 0.70 bore MC. The original Girling unit had a 80mm push rod, the TRW unit that I replaced it with

has a 74mm push rod. After fitting the TRW unit the clutch did not release. In the end I made an adjustable push rod

and all is now working as it should.

Regards

John

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I don't have a measurement for the length, but when fitted the clutch pedal should be the same height at rest as the brake pedal, hope that might help, I have an adjustable push rod to take up some of the wear in the hole of the pedal.

John

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Many thanks John and John.

Yesterday I dismantled the old TRW MC (bought in 2013) and the new TRW MC  bought last week and found a significant difference in the lengths of the pushrods. See Pic. Even the longer one is slightly too short though I think so I may try lengthening it a bit.

 

20190324_125401.jpg

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I bought a LHD master cylinder from Moss a few weeks ago as for some strange reason it was half the price of a RHD one.

I guessed the difference might just be the push rod, and so fitted my old push rod to the new cylinder and it worked fine.

Neil

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Thanks guys. It's not meant to be a LHD one. I ordered a RHD one and the part number on the box is for the RHD one but I guess the wrong one could be in the box.

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