Madmal Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 Hi all, Clutch on the tr has just about had enough so need to change it (the clutch, not the car!) and thought i'd have a go at doing it myself. Bit of research suggests no major concerns but would be grateful if any of you seasoned TR6 owners could shed a little light on the following: 1. Is it possible to just jack up the front rather than the whole car? 2. Where would you suggest sourcing the clutch and plate from as Rimmers etc only seem to supply pattern parts? 3. While the gearbox is out, i'd like to get the layshaft bearing changed as their noisy and also get the box checked for any other issues. Any recommendations? Box seems to be working OK but maybe masked by the clutch not fully separating even with the pedal on the carpet. Overdrive is fine. Cheers Mal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 I'm not sure that you have to raise the car at all to get the gearbox out (it comes out through the cabin) but you will need to support the rear of the engine with a jack and get under for a few bellhousing bolts etc. BTW you are describing symptoms of a sheared fork pin. Gearboxes eat themselves from within and they are good for about 60k miles before they could use a layshaft and bearing overhaul. Take a look at the oil as you drain it and see what is floating in it and pull the top off the gearbox when you get it out and check for a broken top hat bush and the condition of the synchros. If it is a high mileage unit I would consider having it refurbed while it is out. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 Hi Mal, for my 4A which is much the same as your 6 I start of by having all four wheels on the ground. Strip out the inside. Jack up the righthand side and disconnect the exhaust pipe (some people can remove the GB with the exhaust pipe insitu but I can't) Disconnect all the lower nuts/bolts around the lower bell housing, remove starter. Jack up left side and remove the clutch slave. Back on four wheels Disconnect prop shaft and hold off the ground with string. Place a crocodile jack under the sump to hold the engine. Place a scissor jack under the gearbox. Remove all the bell housing bolts Rem lve the rear GB mount bolts - on the 4A I remove the rear mount completely to give more room to waggle. Pull GB rearwards and lift out of car. Simples. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 Roger must be right. He carries out this maintenance most Fridays. Replacing it is another story. Good luck Richard& H. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 Hi Richard, it just feels like every Friday. How are you - long time no see. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Madmal Posted April 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 Thanks for advice gents, much appreciated. Any advice on where to buy the parts from? Cheers Mal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Austin Branson Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 Chris Wittor? Austin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Austin Branson Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 If you want a very good clutch, talk to Kai Raddicke at Wishbone Classics in New York. He helped me a lot, and will ship anywhere. Austin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bluebob Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 Hi Mal had a clutch go while climbing the stelvio years ago and had the put a new clutch in , in the car park at lake como just with a scissor jack we put the car on the kerb off side of car ,seats out, then h frame followed by tunnel once all bolts out pulled g/b back changed clutch (which is now rusting in piece on garage wall as a reminder )then all back in to carry on with rally there was about four of us carrying out the operation with hang overs (from night before) 3hrs in total start to finish by the way the clutch that was in at the time was if I remember a qh which was four week old ? not a happy bunny as although you think you cover ever angle before setting off the last thing I expected was that to go ? bluebob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ben Freer Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 Hi Mal had a clutch go while climbing the stelvio years ago and had the put a new clutch in , in the car park at lake como just with a scissor jack we put the car on the kerb off side of car ,seats out, then h frame followed by tunnel once all bolts out pulled g/b back changed clutch (which is now rusting in piece on garage wall as a reminder )then all back in to carry on with rally there was about four of us carrying out the operation with hang overs (from night before) 3hrs in total start to finish by the way the clutch that was in at the time was if I remember a qh which was four week old ? not a happy bunny as although you think you cover ever angle before setting off the last thing I expected was that to go ? bluebob Ah I remember it well Bob! Although I was just a spectator rather than one of the replacement team! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted April 21, 2017 Report Share Posted April 21, 2017 Hi Mal, Go to ORS in Sheffield for your gearbox overhaul/o/d! If the Bentley & Aston Boys have their gearboxes overhauled by ORS. They do not tolerate rubbish parts or work! I had my gear box done by them, no complaints so far. Beware of soft lay shafts, I had one last October that's how I ended up at ORS, they make their own, because of this problem in the market place which has gone on for years!. Have your lay gear modified to 3 needle rollers as per Stag, cost £80 extra.Fit a clutch bronze bearing carrier with saloon slippers in the fork track. This is a common mod by ORS. There is no judder or ratcheting when I operate my clutch, the best its ever worked. Only go to Revington for the bronze carrier as others sell brass ones which are meant to be bronze????? My clutch is an AP one and the thrust bearing is a RHP. No complaints. Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted April 21, 2017 Report Share Posted April 21, 2017 +1 for ORS Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Madmal Posted April 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2017 Thanks all, making a start tomorrow. Pretty sure its going to take me more than 3 hours though..... Cheers Mal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jamesStag Posted April 21, 2017 Report Share Posted April 21, 2017 Hi Mal, just a quick note. DO check the clutch cross shaft pin for failure as this could well be the cause of your non clearing clutch. As mentioned by Foster461, see the Buckeye triumph clutch technical web page for details and explaination. There might be nothing wrong with your actual clutch. This weak point is a common failure. So i also recommend the upgrade with a bolt or roll pin as detailed in the tech webpage. Good luck, James. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Barbusmaximus Posted April 22, 2017 Report Share Posted April 22, 2017 Moss TR5/6 Clutches are AP/Raicam not pattern Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Madmal Posted April 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2017 Thanks gents, I'll check the pin and Moss. Cheers Mal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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