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Hi all,

 

Clutch on the tr has just about had enough so need to change it (the clutch, not the car!) and thought i'd have a go at doing it myself. Bit of research suggests no major concerns but would be grateful if any of you seasoned TR6 owners could shed a little light on the following:

 

1. Is it possible to just jack up the front rather than the whole car?

2. Where would you suggest sourcing the clutch and plate from as Rimmers etc only seem to supply pattern parts?

3. While the gearbox is out, i'd like to get the layshaft bearing changed as their noisy and also get the box checked for any other issues. Any recommendations? Box seems to be working OK but maybe masked by the clutch not fully separating even with the pedal on the carpet. Overdrive is fine.

 

Cheers

 

Mal

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I'm not sure that you have to raise the car at all to get the gearbox out (it comes out through the cabin) but you will need to support the rear of the engine with a jack and get under for a few bellhousing bolts etc.

 

BTW you are describing symptoms of a sheared fork pin.

 

Gearboxes eat themselves from within and they are good for about 60k miles before they could use a layshaft and bearing overhaul. Take a look at the oil as you drain it and see what is floating in it and pull the top off the gearbox when you get it out and check for a broken top hat bush and the condition of the synchros. If it is a high mileage unit I would consider having it refurbed while it is out.

 

Stan

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Hi Mal,

for my 4A which is much the same as your 6 I start of by having all four wheels on the ground. Strip out the inside.

Jack up the righthand side and disconnect the exhaust pipe (some people can remove the GB with the exhaust pipe insitu but I can't)

Disconnect all the lower nuts/bolts around the lower bell housing, remove starter.

 

Jack up left side and remove the clutch slave.

 

Back on four wheels

 

Disconnect prop shaft and hold off the ground with string.

Place a crocodile jack under the sump to hold the engine.

Place a scissor jack under the gearbox.

Remove all the bell housing bolts

Rem lve the rear GB mount bolts - on the 4A I remove the rear mount completely to give more room to waggle.

 

Pull GB rearwards and lift out of car.

 

Simples.

 

Roger

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Hi Mal

had a clutch go while climbing the stelvio years ago and had the put a new clutch in , in the car park at lake como just with a scissor jack we put the car on the kerb off side of car ,seats out, then h frame followed by tunnel once all bolts out pulled g/b back changed clutch (which is now rusting in piece on garage wall as a reminder )then all back in to carry on with rally there was about four of us carrying out the operation with hang overs (from night before) 3hrs in total start to finish by the way the clutch that was in at the time was if I remember a qh which was four week old ? not a happy bunny as although you think you cover ever angle before setting off the last thing I expected was that to go ?

bluebob

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Hi Mal

had a clutch go while climbing the stelvio years ago and had the put a new clutch in , in the car park at lake como just with a scissor jack we put the car on the kerb off side of car ,seats out, then h frame followed by tunnel once all bolts out pulled g/b back changed clutch (which is now rusting in piece on garage wall as a reminder )then all back in to carry on with rally there was about four of us carrying out the operation with hang overs (from night before) 3hrs in total start to finish by the way the clutch that was in at the time was if I remember a qh which was four week old ? not a happy bunny as although you think you cover ever angle before setting off the last thing I expected was that to go ?

bluebob

Ah I remember it well Bob! ;) Although I was just a spectator rather than one of the replacement team!

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Hi Mal,

 

Go to ORS in Sheffield for your gearbox overhaul/o/d! If the Bentley & Aston Boys have their gearboxes overhauled by ORS. They do not tolerate rubbish parts or work! I had my gear box done by them, no complaints so far. Beware of soft lay shafts, I had one last October that's how I ended up at ORS, they make their own, because of this problem in the market place which has gone on for years!. Have your lay gear modified to 3 needle rollers as per Stag, cost £80 extra.Fit a clutch bronze bearing carrier with saloon slippers in the fork track. This is a common mod by ORS. There is no judder or ratcheting when I operate my clutch, the best its ever worked. Only go to Revington for the bronze carrier as others sell brass ones which are meant to be bronze????? My clutch is an AP one and the thrust bearing is a RHP. No complaints.

 

Bruce.

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+1 for ORS

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Hi Mal, just a quick note. DO check the clutch cross shaft pin for failure as this could well be the cause of your non clearing clutch. As mentioned by Foster461, see the Buckeye triumph clutch technical web page for details and explaination.

 

There might be nothing wrong with your actual clutch. This weak point is a common failure. So i also recommend the upgrade with a bolt or roll pin as detailed in the tech webpage.

 

Good luck,

James.

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