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TR4A Door lock broken - can it be fixed?


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Not sure what to do - I have a great chrome door handle but the key occasionally twirls around in the slot and sometimes it works but mostly doesn't. Can this be rebuilt? I think it's original and wonder if I can take it apart and fix it.....?

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Hi Ron,

the lock can be taken apart. You may well find that the double action spring that returns the key to the centre position has come unclipped.

If you are lucky it will clip back on.

If you are unlucky then the barrel may be damaged and thus need a new barrel.

 

If you take it apart lay out all the pieces in order as they come away otherwise you may have problems putting it back again.

The rear cover has two screws holding - remove these and catch the spring.

If you look carefully at the press button you will see a brass pin - tap this out - the barrel should now came out.

Unravel the rest as you see it.

 

Roger

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Ok - I assume I access by taking off the inside door panel? Sorry just haven't worked on these bits before so just excuse the ignorance! Are new barrels obtainable?

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This may help.... The clip is the one with the 2 red arrows

You need not take the entire door panel out, just unclip the half of the panel allowing you to access the screw holding the handle to the door outer panel and removing the circlips holding the door lock rods.

New sets of door locks are available from the usual suppliers but you will find out that they come proud by 1 mm from the edge of the door handle. Also they do not have the "to lock" engraving

door lock mechanism.pdf

post-11469-0-22526100-1492073563_thumb.jpg

Edited by Geko
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Hi Ron,

I have just taken a handle/lock apart to see what is going on.

 

If the double action spring has popped off then the key will simply not return to centre.

Have a look at the barrel where the ends of the spring lock into. This can get badly worn - new barrel required.

 

If you fit a new barrel then you will get a new key. Do you really want to change all the barrels (doors, boot. Ign, glove box)

 

It is possible to transfer the levers from one barrel to another - very fiddly. But this keeps your existing key.

 

 

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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Oh gee Roger - thanks for the advice but gee sounds very fiddly. I will endeavor shortly (or when have a passenger complain again!) and report back...

 

Many thanks,

 

Ron

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Sorry to hear about Peter Weston, The Lockman, he was a really helpful chap and thanks to him I now have one key fits all. He will be sadly missed by a lot of members.

Christine Essex

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  • 3 years later...
On 4/13/2017 at 9:46 AM, Geko said:

This may help.... The clip is the one with the 2 red arrows

You need not take the entire door panel out, just unclip the half of the panel allowing you to access the screw holding the handle to the door outer panel and removing the circlips holding the door lock rods.

New sets of door locks are available from the usual suppliers but you will find out that they come proud by 1 mm from the edge of the door handle. Also they do not have the "to lock" engraving

door lock mechanism.pdf 758.43 kB · 50 downloads

post-11469-0-22526100-1492073563_thumb.jpg

Stef, this was very useful as the workshop manual doesn't go into this detail. Both door & ignition lock barrels changed over; as long as you start and finish the job in one go, it's not too difficult. Should apply a little GP grease in the mechanism?

Rgds

David

 

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+1 for NEVER grease or oil in locks. As well as gumming up the lock, you get a greasy key each time!

As Rob says, graphite, or I've used "micronised PTFE spray" - or ptfe dust, as I like to think of it. It comes in spray cans with a solvent that penetrates the locks and other things and works like magic. House locks, car locks, padlocks ... all work as new now! The solvent also washes out any oil that some previous well intended person has applied, gumming up the lock! I use this WD40 brand one from CPC, but there are other manufacturers out there. Just make sure it's a "dry" type lube - PTFE + solvent + nothing else.

Cheers, Richard

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  • 1 year later...

Hi

Struggling with both my door locks. Both work, ish, and the spring returns the key on both to centre, albeit with not much gusto. The problem is, if the door is unlocked, then after 3 or 4 shuts of the door (slams) the pin and connecting bar have drifted downward to put the button in the locked position.

What is supposed to hold up the connecting rod with the springy thing in the middle?

Cheers

Ian

 

IMG_5463.jpeg

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Hi Ian,

Your Link Assemble 650251 is missing its "bent wire clip".

Have a look in the Workshop Manual, not easy to make out the detail but it is shown.

It is small and an odd shaped part, similar to a hair pin, the closed end is joggled and sits into the top hole, the legs run down either side of the post and locate into the recess on the post. They then run downwards and are bent back and around the back of the "U" shape at the bottom to secure them in place.

Very fiddly to install and easy to lose, all your catch parts appear to have been re-plated so maybe they were lost during that process...?

I know I have some spare Links but not sure if any still have the wire clip - I will check tomorrow and let you know.

Regards, Richard

 

Item 93 - 650251 - Link Assembly.png

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Ian, look in bottom of the door, that is where I found mine! Cheers, Andrew PS Part number 604156 in the Moss catalogue.

Edited by AndrewMAshton
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Hi Ian,

I have checked in the garage and unfortunately cannot find any spare wire clips.

These wire clips are not available new, so you will have to find a used Link with the wire clip still attached.

I have attached a photo showing the missing wire clip in place.

Regards, Richard

 

1.jpg

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Thanks for the replies guys, should have said I had disconnected it to take the lock out to check, I have lost the wire clip, but am using a small circlip. 
 

Even with it connected using the Circlip it still drops down. Any other ideas?

Ian

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Hi Richard,

you are quite right.

There are two clips             604156    upper clip  available

                                            608703  lower clip not available  

 

It can still be easily made though with some 18 or 20 SWG locking wire  or even 0.8mm MIG welding wire (at a pinch).

 

Roger

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Hi Richard

Thanks for the feedback, forgive me but I can't see why a Circlip wouldn't work, When I say Circlip I should probably say E Clip. I'm probably missing something here so sorry. With the E clip in place I can watch the Lever move up & down as I turn the key, the lever doesn't move sideways, the E clip keeps it in place.

Hi Roger

The 608703 Clip shows against the remote door lock, Moss item no 43, there isn't a clip showing for the lower end of the Link, unless it is by default the same Clip.

Bresco do an expensive range of these clips, if it is one I really need, just need to figure out the size.

https://www.bresco.com/acatalog/Omega-Clips.html

 

Ian

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26 minutes ago, meesonia said:

Hi Richard

Thanks for the feedback, forgive me but I can't see why a Circlip wouldn't work, When I say Circlip I should probably say E Clip. I'm probably missing something here so sorry. With the E clip in place I can watch the Lever move up & down as I turn the key, the lever doesn't move sideways, the E clip keeps it in place.

Hi Roger

The 608703 Clip shows against the remote door lock, Moss item no 43, there isn't a clip showing for the lower end of the Link, unless it is by default the same Clip.

Bresco do an expensive range of these clips, if it is one I really need, just need to figure out the size.

https://www.bresco.com/acatalog/Omega-Clips.html

 

Ian

Hi Ian,

Not sure about expensive but it is extensive.

Your E clip would work but would be difficult to remove.

I think the Bressco 3.5mm clip would work - or would be very close.  3.5mm clip

 

Roger

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Hi Ian,

The original wire clip is retained in position by the top and bottom ends being bent around the Link.

The original wire clip has two legs which locate either side of the small post and sit inside the rebate and so the wire clip provides sideways restraint in two directions.

A circlip fixed into that rebate will only loosely hold the Link on and cannot provide any sideways restraint.

The original wire clip is made with a very strong wire and thus quite difficult to install. 

You really do require an original wire clip in order to get the catch operating correctly. 

Have you lost both wire clips...?

Regards, Richard

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