HELP! TR6 N.American Fuel Pipe Pum to Carbs leaking

[jake_a]

I went to replace one of the fuel pipe clamps (the one that bolts into the water pump housing) because it was corroded. Turns out what remained of the rubber grommet and the clamp were hiding (and sealing) the badly corroded fuel pipe.

 

I had 5 horrific minutes of fuel pouring out but have managed to seal it now.

 

Problem is, pipe 519396 is seemingly now unavailable from any of the specialists. I have neither the skills, the equipment, nor the time to make one a replacement.

Any suggestions? Anyone got one? Its part number 81 here: http://www.revingtontr.com/catalogueimages/TR6CPCC_1/j.jpg

 

Jake

[RogerH]

Hi Jake,

contact AutoMec. They make most of the kits in Copper or Kunifer. They may do a single pipe for you.

 

Roger

[tr graham]

Jake

Will look tomorrow may have what you are looking for

Graham

[oldtuckunder]

Cut pipe off either side of corroded section insert piece of fuel grade rubber pipe (available everywhere) and two fuel pipe clamps, away you go.

 

Actually looking at the drawing there is a rubber section a bit further on, just get a longer piece of tube and go from that point back to where the metal pipe is good.

 

Alan

[jake_a]

Jake

Will look tomorrow may have what you are looking for

Graham

 

Hi, any luck? The problem with the idea of using a length of hose is that the clearance for the fuel line is very tight, and anything even slightly thicker than the metal tube may cause problems.

[foster461]

Jake, this is a simple pipe to make and it only has fittings on one end for the fuel pump. If you have the correct fittings, any local brake shop should be able to bend you up a fuel line using steel brake line of the correct diameter. It is off the shelf stuff.

 

Stan

[Tom Fremont]

Hi Jake,

 

I used readily available 1/4" galvanized steel brake line to make them for my Webered cars. A good tube bending tool is key. Put large radii in the curves for flow efficiency. Lifetime solution.

 

The tough part is remaking the connection at the fuel pump. The brass compression fittings available today are too short and the nut bottoms on the seat of the pump rather than the brass sleeve. You can fit (2) of them back-to-back, filing or grinding off part of the mating tapers - worked for both of mine.

 

 

Cheers,

Tom

 

[Sapphire72]

All you need to do is take the corroded section to a store that sells brake or fuel line--- you want to take it to measure the diameter of replacement tubing.

 

You want to purchase a tubing section that will run across the front of the engine to where it joins the fuel line before the carbs (12-14 inches should be enough),

and one 2 inch section of fuel hose + two clamps--- to join the removed section to the old section.

 

You can reuse the fuel pump fitting and tubing section that runs up to the alternator (approximately).

Near the spot where the tubing bends (behind the alternator) to run across the front of the engine- that's where to cut it and use your 2" rubber joiner + clamps to your new section.

 

A tubing bender like the one shown is very cheap to buy and is easy to use.

[oldtuckunder]

I have neither the skills, the equipment, nor the time to make one a replacement.