bullstreetboy Posted April 8, 2017 Report Share Posted April 8, 2017 Guys I rescued a factory hardtop from a barn on Bodmin moor some time ago. I'm having problems getting it cleared off. All the blaster I have contacted so far don't want anything to do with the job because "we have had problems with those in the past". From what they are claiming bead/sand blasting is too harsh and leads to an orange peel effect when painted. I did get another one vapour blasted by a company on Dartmooor but the results where not good - that hard top was in a very poor state. So I now have 2 that are in dire need of attention. I have all new fittings including rear screens, cant rails, rubbers, etc in the attic just waiting to be fitted. Anyone got experience of this process? I'm close to Teignmouth in South Devon. Best regards Barry . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted April 8, 2017 Report Share Posted April 8, 2017 Barry, I think these sheet steel parts can be blasted safely but it has to be the right operator using the right equipment and media. The folks that did my stuff use glass bead and a lot of caution and I never had any problems with anything warping. I also have a hardtop shell that spent years under a tree. It is a combination of primer and rust. My game plan is to use some 3M pads/disks in the die grinder to remove the material off the smooth surfaces on the top and underside of the hardtop. Then I will take it outside and use a pressure blaster with Alox media to clean up the edges and corners where there is a lot of structural strength and where the die grinder cant get in. The aluminum oxide will not dig into the steel especially at the pressure I will be using, around 80psi. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted April 8, 2017 Report Share Posted April 8, 2017 Hi They are very easily distorted especially around the rear screen opening........good old paint stripper and elbow grease and a cupbrush on an angle grinder. Either that or get it dipped. I have a spare that I was quoted £600 to have stripped by Envirostrip........needless to say its still waiting Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 8, 2017 Report Share Posted April 8, 2017 Cheaper to buy yourself a sand blast gun and a bucket and some media and do it yourself in the garden on a sheet of plastic. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bullstreetboy Posted April 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2017 Guys Please forgive my ignorance. Is the problem that the sheet steel is "thin" or just sub standard? Glass blasting has been mentioned. I recon Iain is right, a cupbrush and some time , which I have, would maybe do it, BUT I don't have the space. The original one has been waiting for over 6 years now, the Bodmin moor reclaim only 3 years, so what is the rush? Except I am running out of time! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted April 8, 2017 Report Share Posted April 8, 2017 Seems like a perfect object for soda blasting, less damage Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted April 8, 2017 Report Share Posted April 8, 2017 Guys Please forgive my ignorance. Is the problem that the sheet steel is "thin" or just sub standard? Glass blasting has been mentioned. I recon Iain is right, a cupbrush and some time , which I have, would maybe do it, BUT I don't have the space. The original one has been waiting for over 6 years now, the Bodmin moor reclaim only 3 years, so what is the rush? Except I am running out of time! Problems arise when you have a large area of sheet metal with no supporting structure. It could be wing, a door, a bonnet etc. While the choice of media is important the technique and the equipment have a greater influence. The guys that have the commercial blasting setup have a big compressor and a large diameter nozzle that puts out a lot of media at very high volume and velocity. If you point that square onto the panel and pull the trigger it will likely warp the panel. So they need this high volume capability so they can clean up a truck frame in a reasonable time but they also need to know how to use it on an 18g steel panel. Go easy on the trigger and always come at it at an angle. Go slow. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel C Posted April 8, 2017 Report Share Posted April 8, 2017 Seems like a perfect object for soda blasting, less damage +1 ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AtLast Posted April 18, 2017 Report Share Posted April 18, 2017 Just had my rusty old hardtop blasted and painted... not sure what they used but it has come up lovely. I've not tried fitting new rubbers and the old rear screen yet but I can't see any distortion. I'm based half way between Bedford and Cambridge, long way from Cornwall, but just shout if you want contact details of the guys that did it. Archie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
e_ingemann Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 When you get to fitting the backlight, make sure to get a strip with a large enough dimension, the ones from the usual suppliers are to narrow, get this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIUMPH-TR2-TR3-TR3A-TR3B-FACTORY-HARDTOP-BACKLIGHT-SEAL-KIT-/370626099514?hash=item564b09793a:m:mkTSysEwkM70LIxvySGiJ9A&vxp=mtr /Esben Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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