Kevo_6 Posted March 28, 2017 Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 No Clutch or Gearbox worries then Cheers Mike Spoke to soon Mike, bloody gearbox is coming out again. The clutch was good though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 28, 2017 Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 Hi Kev, what has gone wrong now? I've just put mine back in. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3739 Posted March 28, 2017 Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 Spoke to soon Mike, bloody gearbox is coming out again. The clutch was good though. Oh no so sorry to hear that, whats wrong now? Cheers Mike. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted March 28, 2017 Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 Hi Roger and Mike, See my other thread Graunching Noise From Prop Shaft Area. Not sure what's up yet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
murrayarnold Posted July 28, 2020 Report Share Posted July 28, 2020 I have always used 20/50 mineral oil. Diesel truck oil basically. Engine runs fine on it. Any decent brand. Just make sure and use miniral oil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted July 28, 2020 Report Share Posted July 28, 2020 1 hour ago, murrayarnold said: I have always used 20/50 mineral oil. Diesel truck oil basically. Engine runs fine on it. Any decent brand. Just make sure and use miniral oil. Err...you do know this oil type question was for gearbox use Murray ? or are you using Diesel engine oil in yours and using it in the engine also ? Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Yarm 783 Posted July 28, 2020 Report Share Posted July 28, 2020 (edited) Any of the Classic 20/50’s would be fine, thicker so they don’t leak as much. Synthetics are thinner generally and so if you go for that there will be more of it on the floor of where place you keep your beloved. (I’m ready for the broadsides on that one). I have used Castrol’s Classic, am now using Fuchs Classic, I don’t think it really matters. Edited July 28, 2020 by Sill Gap Problem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 29, 2020 Report Share Posted July 29, 2020 For the TR engines you need a good level of ZDDP in order to help the cam followers survive. Many classic oils are apprx 1000ppm - not enough. Castrol do not specify (I believe) The 20/50 from Classic Oils here states what it has and is a good level. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Yarm 783 Posted July 29, 2020 Report Share Posted July 29, 2020 8 hours ago, RogerH said: For the TR engines you need a good level of ZDDP in order to help the cam followers survive. Many classic oils are apprx 1000ppm - not enough. Castrol do not specify (I believe) The 20/50 from Classic Oils here states what it has and is a good level. Roger Hi Roger, I am always prepared to bow to your infinitely greater knowledge, but isn’t too much ZDDP as bad as too little, I remember reading that. The Fuchs product is 1100 and the tech guy there says that is optimum. Castrol Classic is 800 which I agree aight be a touch light? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 29, 2020 Report Share Posted July 29, 2020 (edited) 9 minutes ago, Sill Gap Problem said: Hi Roger, I am always prepared to bow to your infinitely greater knowledge, but isn’t too much ZDDP as bad as too little, I remember reading that. The Fuchs product is 1100 and the tech guy there says that is optimum. Castrol Classic is 800 which I agree aight be a touch light? Quite so but we are talking a fair bit more than what is normally available. There was a great deal of posts a couple of years back. Prof. Pete Cobald was gathering info left right ad centre. 1500-1800 is a good range. It is easy to justify too little. However it does depend on how you use the engine. If you are constantly in the high rev range then a little bit more may help. At low/middle revs the 1100 or even the Halfords classic 1000 would be enough. Have a read through here Roger Edited July 29, 2020 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Yarm 783 Posted July 29, 2020 Report Share Posted July 29, 2020 2 hours ago, RogerH said: Quite so but we are talking a fair bit more than what is normally available. There was a great deal of posts a couple of years back. Prof. Pete Cobald was gathering info left right ad centre. 1500-1800 is a good range. It is easy to justify too little. However it does depend on how you use the engine. If you are constantly in the high rev range then a little bit more may help. At low/middle revs the 1100 or even the Halfords classic 1000 would be enough. Have a read through here Roger Cheers Roger, I think you are right, the sort of motoring I do these days, I think the stuff I am going to be using is probably going to be OK At around 1400ppm. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
murrayarnold Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 On 7/28/2020 at 9:55 PM, Motorsport Mickey said: Err...you do know this oil type question was for gearbox use Murray ? or are you using Diesel engine oil in yours and using it in the engine also ? Mick Richards Ha ha ha. I am a silly Billy am I not. Please excuse my comment. But engine wise. That's what I use Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SpitFireSIX Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 1500 - 1800 seems very very high. 300# valve springs & 310 Cam? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 53 minutes ago, SpitFireSIX said: 1500 - 1800 seems very very high. 300# valve springs & 310 Cam? Specifying the springs and cam makes me suspect you think the 1500-1800 specified in RogerH post is revs ? It’s actually the Zinc in ZDDP as ppm If using it in arduous conditions. Most people now think 1400 ppm is advisable Mick Richards 53 minutes ago, SpitFireSIX said: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SpitFireSIX Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 (edited) Hi, 1500PPM Zn, Ph or ZDDP sounds very very high for an engine with < 200# valve springs found on most CP or CR engines. Would you agree Mike? Mick? Cheers, Iain. Edited July 30, 2020 by SpitFireSIX Name wrong. Sorry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 17 minutes ago, SpitFireSIX said: Hi, 1500PPM Zn, Ph or ZDDP sounds very very high for an engine with < 200# valve springs found on most CP or CR engines. Would you agree Mike? Cheers, Iain. I don't know about very high, but it's certainly about 7% higher than the zinc content at1400ppm which is now commonly referred to as the optimum amount. Prof Peter Cobbold (whose made posts in the thread link marked here shown in RogerHs post above) would be able to advise better whether he thought it inadvisable. I'm wary of being too prescriptive with "these pounds valve springs need this certain amount of Zinc in ZDDP" I don't think a definitive correlation can be made between them. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SpitFireSIX Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 Hi Mick, I cannot open the links from Prof Peter Cobbold unfortunately. Is he saying that 1400 PPM is the optimum amount for a road engine? I would be interested in reading about this. I run 1000PPM with no problems on my CP engine. I say no problem as Fe is low on OCI. My tappets are quiet over the years. I suspect my springs are at most 180#. I do think though that high spring pressure, bad grinds with out of spec grinding tolerances & insufficient hardening are the main cause of cam/tappet failures. A lot gets blamed on the oil when its not the problem. Me, I always pick an oil that is approved for A40 Porsche. ASEA A3B3/4. I would not use the OEM API SE oil that is "correct" for my engine. I'm lucky I don't need a SAE 50 to control oil loss or to maintain oil pressure. Cheers, Iain. PS. Apologies for wrong name. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 Here you go Iain This is the thread, I think your questions will be resolved when you see the responses given. regards Mick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SpitFireSIX Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 6 minutes ago, Motorsport Mickey said: Here you go Iain This is the thread, I think your questions will be resolved when you see the responses given. regards Mick Unfortunately not. I see "Sorry, we can't show this content because you do not have permission to see it." Cheers, Iain. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 Ok try copy paste of this single post Peter Cobbold Too much ZDDP is not good idea: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1049812 ""A higher level of ZDP was good for flat-tappet valve-train scuffing and wear, but it turned out that more was not better. Although break-in scuffing was reduced by using more phosphorus, longer-term wear increased when phosphorus rose above 0.14%. And, at about 0.20% phosphorus, the ZDP started attacking the grain boundaries in the iron, resulting in camshaft spalling.""" So additive helps running-in, but long term use needs about 0.14% 0.14% = 1400ppm. This list shows ZDDP content of oils ( as of 2008) as ppm: http://roverp5.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=general31&action=print&thread=2579 I think that will do it. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Schnippel Posted July 31, 2020 Report Share Posted July 31, 2020 Hello I always paid attention to two parameters. Oil viscosity index 100 degrees And HTHS value 150 degrees. Compare it, motor sport oils 10W60 have the highest values I have been using it for years in hard and soft use in TR and Mercedes machines. I would never think of using a different oil. Greetings Ralf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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