MJF Posted March 12, 2017 Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 Hi all, As part of a long term restoration I am still taking parts off my long door TR2, and I’m now having difficulties removing the rear hubs. The car is on wire wheels with the original lockheed axle, and has the alternative hubs with integral wire wheel adaptors. The problem I have is I am unable to remove the splined collar (part 51 in the Moss catalogue on page 78, part 42 in the workshop manual). Because of the wire wheel adaptors I am finding access very difficult. Both the workshop manual and the Technicalities CD article simple state “Remove the nut, washer and the splined taper collar from the axle shaft”. I have removed the nut and washer but the splined collar won’t budge! Can I pull the hub off without first removing the splined collar or will this cause more problems? Also the Technicalities CD article specifically states to use a two-legged puller. Due to the depth of the wire wheel adaptor my two-legged puller is too small, but I have managed to borrow a three-legged puller. As the Technicalities CD article was very specific, is there a problem using a three-legged puller in this application? Thanks in advance, Martin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2long Posted March 12, 2017 Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 My suggestion is to remove the hub and axle as a unit, which won't require removal of that locking collar. Then you can deal with getting the locking collar off the hub. I had to have my locking collar removed by a machine shop, but I am sure those more skilled do it themselves. Cheers Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted March 13, 2017 Report Share Posted March 13, 2017 You could try the old 'side of the road' trick. Might work, might not.... With the brake drum, half shaft nut and washer removed but the half shaft assy in the axle, refit the wire wheel and spinner. Now try pulling & wobbling the wheel as if to pull the hub off the axle shaft with the collar. A good MG garage should have the tool to extract splined hub assemblies from axle shafts as the post 1960 MG series Midget/A/B has precisely the same arrangement as TR2 of splined hubs on their wire wheel cars. Also the same 8tpi thread sized spinners. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ts1144 Posted March 14, 2017 Report Share Posted March 14, 2017 (edited) I removed mine by slightly opening the cut in the splined collar , with a screw driver, then driving a wedge or another miss used screw driver, between it and the hub The Collar covers the two brake drum holding screws, so it has to come off first, to remove the brake drum Chris Edited March 14, 2017 by ts1144 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MJF Posted March 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2017 Thanks for all the replies guys. Chris, I'm not referring to the collar the wire wheel locates on, but the internally splined tapered collar (part No 108608) that fits into the end of the hub itself. My concern is if I simply try and pull the hub off with the tapered collar still in place, the taper will force the collar to grip the splines even harder. Presumably that is why it is there in the first place. Also as this part is showing as NCA on the Moss web site, I don’t want to risk breaking it. Have others succeeded in pulling the hub off with this collar still in place? Martin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MJF Posted January 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 In the interests of maintaining the forum as a future reference source I thought I should resurrect this old post to confirm the final outcome. If you remember my car is a long door TR2, on the original wire wheels adaptors which are integral with the hubs. The problem was I could not pull the hub off the half shaft, the splined collar holding it on was stuck and access down the wire wheel adaptor very limited. I borrowed a bigger three legged puller but just could not move it. In the end I took the half shaft with hub it to TR Enterprises and left it with them. Apparently it put up a significant fight but in the end they managed to separate the hub from the half shaft, and the good news is after a quick clean up all the parts, the half shaft, splined collar and hub, should be good to reuse. So I can confirm if at first it won’t come off, try a bigger puller/press/or what-ever you can find; it will just pull off eventually! Martin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scrapper Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 Hi Martin I have recently removed and reinstalled the Knock on type of hubs on my TR2, TS765L. I found it impossible to remove the locking splined collar first as described in the Service Instruction Manual. Inspired by figure 4 in the manual (rear axle chapter) I drilled an approximately 1 inch hole in the center of an old Knockoff nut. Installed the nut and used this as attachment for a big 2 armed puller. The threaded part of this puller became to short and had to be extended by approximately 3 inches. It worked, no problem but much force was needed. Sorry for not having replied to your request earlier but would like to have everything sorted and reinstalled on my rear axle before replying. Best regards Einar Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 (edited) ...and I give you the MGB version of the item needed on a TR2. http://www.mgbmga.com/te/HUB-PULLERS-WIRE-WHEEL(OEM).pdf Peter W PS 18G1032 would work on our cars as they have the course thread - you would need to adapt the pushing bit. Edited January 26, 2018 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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