Ericthelightweight Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Hi All, just trying to replace the wide fanbelt on my 1960 3a but struggling with the narrow gaps it has to pass through. 1. The aftermarket steering rack is v. close to the crankshaft pulley securing bolts, but I can loosen the rack mounts to get clearance there. 2. The gap between the cross brace and the crankshaft pulley is also less than the width of the belt, but I see Mr. Haynes recommends unbolting the brace to get the belt in/out. 3. Now I see the gap between the fan bolts and the radiator is also less than the fan belt width Mr. Haynes makes no mention of removing the radiator. Has anyone got any tips on this (simple) roadside task? Haynes does suggest I strap a second replacement belt in place ready for next time but that doesn't help me much now. Maybe this is the reason so many people go for the narrow belt conversions..... Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 I have the original style steering box in my car, and changing the wide belt is super easy by turning the wheel all the way to one direction. Luckily there's plenty of room. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ericthelightweight Posted March 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Hmmm.... I can see how that would solve the issue with the rack, but I wonder how that improves fan clearance to the rad? In the end I removed the lower rad bolts, loosened the two longitudinal stays and jiggled the rad far enough forward to get the belt past the fan hub. I already had the grille out and was working in a well equipped garage with a pit. Goodness knows how you're supposed to do that on a dark, wet night in the middle of nowhere. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
j-eichert Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Closest point is fan/ radiator - that's true. But I always managed to jiggel it through, a bit of turning of the ventilator was helpful. Regards Johannes Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 That's one reason why a lot of us change to narrow fan belts. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 I was lucky my TR came with the thin belt conversion ~ highly recommended. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
j-eichert Posted March 12, 2017 Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 My personal opinion towards "thin belt" ist: - the engineers in the 50s didn't intend it that way - you have to apply much more radial pressure by higher tension on the belt. This leads to more radial load on the bearings of both water pump and generator: The original parts were not built for that. + easier to change + comes handy in combination with a conversion to an alternator I want to keep the old generator (maybe one day with an electronic regulator) and can live with the problems of the change. Regards Johannes Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill.P. Posted March 12, 2017 Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 On a standard TR2/3/3A with original steering box, it is easy......on full lock either way the centre track rod drops away to become slightly lower, low enough to get the correct wide belt through the gap, proving Triumph's engineers in the 50s had thought of that one and weren't daft ! Using this knowledge I have changed a wide belt at the roadside in 10 minutes......Bill P. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted March 12, 2017 Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 This has been covered many times before, but part of the problem is the thickness and stiffness of the old standard wide belt if you have changed the steering set-up. You can get modern raw-edge belts which are nearly as wide to work with the standard pulleys, but which are much thinner and flexible than the original. I use a 17 mm wide 'cogged' belt quite satisfactorarily though it does sit a bit lower in the V of the pulleys of course. It is 11mm thick so is easily threaded past the pinch points and being that thin it does not bottom-out in the pulleys either. Having said that, it does sound from the earlier posts as if Keith's engine may be slightly too far forward if the gap between it and the rad won't let the belt past. Have the engine mounts sagged perhaps? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james christie Posted March 12, 2017 Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 One of the gearboxes that fit the sidescreen cars - I think it's the all synchro one- is very slightly longer than the standard one. It can push the engine forward sufficiently to cause the problems that Johannes has had. James Quote Link to post Share on other sites
j-eichert Posted March 12, 2017 Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 James, you are absolutely right - the TR4-gearbox may need some mm IF the Rubbers for the engine are worn and without the additional brackets to stabilize the rubber block in forward direction. And maybe I bent the blades of the fan a bit too much forward - as I had no reference I was just guessing the right amount. But I changed the belt twice - first time a new belt after some 3k miles: I mounted it with too much of tension, that's a method to destroy them fast. The next one lasted much longer and did of age: I bought i with the car & kept it as spare, so must have been > 20 years old when it started to fall into pieces. Regards, Johannes Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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