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Temperature gauge questions (several)


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I'm just seeking some clarification. My temperature gauge isn't working. It's the original TR2 type, not an electronic replacement.

 

Am I correct in saying that the small tube that feeds this guage is soldered into place and if it's become detached, I need to send the gauge away to have it reconnected correctly? It looks as though mine just pushes in. The guage is pretty rough anyway and looks as though it's been taken apart previously as the needle doesn't sit correctly.

 

I guess that it works in the same way the oil pressure does, with a small amount of water passing thrugh the pipe, or is it though simple heat transfer?

 

Reading previous posts, I know that the 2 main companies complete an exchange basis for around £75. If I do this, do they send me the complete unit, with sender etc, or if I recondition my guage so I still need to have small pipe soldered in (or is it pushed as per my previous question).

 

Apologies. Many many questions as always!

 

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It's not water, its ethanol or something in side. If you send the old one in you get one on exchange complete. Be very careful putting the new one in. If the pipe is broken you have to start all over again! I think the exchange price is nearer £90 now :(

 

Also if you overheat and the needle hits the max it huffs all the ethanol out and you have to start again [as I found out in the queue to Goodwood Revival last year when the electric fan packed up!!]

 

I am seriously considering changing to the TR4 electronic one!!

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Its Ether fluid in the bulb and tube. It is possiblle to fix it yourself and you might find some info on how to do that in earlier threads or elsewhere on the web. Basically you need to butcher a new one (cheap on e-bay). Freezing the fluid in the sender bulb gives time to re-solder the new bulb and pipe to the original gauge. The electrical gauge from the TR4 iooks different to the other TR2 gauges and will need a voltage-stabiliser fitted.

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Hello Devs TRSHOP are great on recon gauge but its about £115 with postage etc and it comes back sparkly brand new everything ,now thats fine on a newly restored car but anything older the gauge stands out like a sore thumb,there's a guy in our club TRIUMPH ROADSTER club that will just fit you a new capilary tube and fill and calibrate for £60 let me know if your intrested and i will contact our secretary and forward the number on. Martin.

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Its Ether fluid in the bulb and tube...

"Ether" is more a class of chemicals than any specific compound. Do you have a reference to exactly what ether, RobH? That's something I've never filed away in my mind but have always been curious about.

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Not definitive info Don, but from other web sources I believe it is called "diethyl ether" which I am told is the same stuff as the anaesthetic. Not being a chemist I don't know what that really means but for DIY repairs its really just a question of using what is there in the new ones.

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Get it professionally restored and take care when fitting. If you twist the bulb you will break the new capillary tube. You need some sealer so that you can remove it in the future and so that you do not have to make it very tight to be leak free.

 

Once fitted they last for years with no problems.

 

Richard & H.

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The electrical gauge from the TR4 iooks different to the other TR2 gauges and will need a voltage-stabiliser fitted.

 

When my capillary gauge broke many years ago and replacements weren't easily available I fitted an early TR4 gauge with the domed glass but replaced the face with one from a TR3A. You don't notice any difference from the front.

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I originally set my car up with the later TR4 electric gauge as I had previous experience of the "little pipe one" as my dad called it on an MG. I found the TR 4 one to slow to react and so ( seeing as a mate had a spare to play with) I fitted

an original unit and it was a great improvement with instant readings and so easier to react to overheating issues

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