Jim Allen Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 Fitting the carburettors this afternoon. The choke cable seems to be about 2 inches too long. Does this mean I've chosen a shorter route? Does anyone have a photo or a description of the route from the dash board to the grommet through the bulkhead. Also along my route I can't see how how the "P" clip as per the Moss catalogue can attach it to the bulkhead. Any advice before I shorten the cable would be much appreciated. Cheers Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mjdearing Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 Hi Jim i would'nt be too hung up about position or route just get the little blitter to work, i have to put two feet on dash and pull on it with grips,iv tried all sorts but decided its the carb levers design at fault. All the best. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 Hi Jim ~ Here is a photo of the choke cable run on my 3A. I am able to operate the choke easily with my left hand. Tip ~ Connect the cable to the carburettor trunnion pin and lock the cable in position then remove the cable and trunnion from the operating arm and rotate the trunnion two or three right hand turns and reconnect to the arm. This will make the choke knob spring into the locked position on the dashboard. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 +1 Good tip Tom, I do this also. If you don't then the knob will always work it's way back in. It is also worth checking that the spring clip, & the thin brass "pawl" are present , & working properly. It may be worth filing the ratchet teeth to make them more positive. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 Hi Bob ~ Yes, I filed the ratchet teeth and made up a new steel pawl. Always try and get a straight run for the choke cable. When I first bought the car the choke mechanism was extremely heavy. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 TeriAnn's Triumph website has a detailed drawing of all the holes in the firewall so you can see what goes where. Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 (edited) In the old days, a 'ha'penny' was all that was required to get started.- wedged under the knob. But since ha'pennies are hard to come by these days, (and could cost a dollar these days) twisting the cable a few turns works a treat. AlanR Edited February 17, 2017 by TR 2100 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 Nice rockers tom ???? It wasn't me that stole your rocker cover. And thanks for the choke tip H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Allen Posted February 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 Thanks Tom et al, Nice picture Tom. That is the way I have it coming through the bulkhead on the engine side. Nice and straight. I am wondering about the dash board side. I ran it in a straight line out through the grommet but just wondering if I'm missing something as I can't see where I could possibly use a "P" clip on the cable. Can anyone tell me where they have a clip? Cheers Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted February 18, 2017 Report Share Posted February 18, 2017 Hi Jim ~ I don't have a 'P' clip fitted at all. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted February 18, 2017 Report Share Posted February 18, 2017 It fits on one screw at the bulkhead end of the right hand dash support and heater mount bracket which is in line with the exit grommet to the engine bay. Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted February 18, 2017 Report Share Posted February 18, 2017 Another important point is the correct functioning of the choke control. On the pull to the first notch on the control this should only open the butterflies sufficiently to increase the fast running ~ it should not lower the jets. The second notch setting should then lower the jets. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted February 18, 2017 Report Share Posted February 18, 2017 On my 3A I moved the choke cable to a new position on the dash board near the speedo. Now it does not have to bend around the heater and works much more smoothly. I have the Standard Triumph wooden clothes peg which will hold the choke once fully pulled pulled out. The original choke knob has been replaced with the spot lamp switch. It all looks OK. Richard & H. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Allen Posted February 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2017 Thank you all for all the help Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted February 19, 2017 Report Share Posted February 19, 2017 Tom How does it run with HS6´s? Nice rollers too. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted February 19, 2017 Report Share Posted February 19, 2017 (edited) Don't forget that the cork sealing washers on the carburettor jets harden and shrink which also makes the choke mechanism extremely heavy to work. I replaced my cork washers with neoprene 'O' rings which made the choke much easier to work. I soaked the 'O' rings in a mixture of oil and petrol for a few weeks to see if they deteriorated but they withstood the test. Tom. Edited February 19, 2017 by Fireman049 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted February 19, 2017 Report Share Posted February 19, 2017 Hi Dave ~ I'm sorry but I have no info. regarding HS6's but I know that the choke control is much lighter on them. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 19, 2017 Report Share Posted February 19, 2017 (edited) This shows the routing if you have HS6's Bob. Edited February 19, 2017 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted February 19, 2017 Report Share Posted February 19, 2017 I should have mentioned that my 3A is fitted with a Clayton heater and this causes the choke cable to be at a more tight angle around the heater but the choke operation is still very light. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted February 20, 2017 Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 This shows the routing if you have HS6's Engine bay right.JPG Bob. Bob That´s what Ivé got and the operation is easy(ish) Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brian-nz Posted February 20, 2017 Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 Bob I have HS6 carbs. My choke cable is attached to the front carb. Does it make any difference - front or back. Reason I ask is that I have rough running on cold start up - won't run properly until it is hot. Carbs have been tuned albeit when engine hot. Have tried full choke , half choke and is very frustrating especially when having to rev hard at lights and then bunny hopping through them. Regards Brian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 20, 2017 Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 Won't make any difference, which carb the cable goes to, as long as both the jets start to move downwards together. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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