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There was an article in November Practical Classics about renovating the rear hubs at TD Fitchett, shows step buy step dismantling them and then rebuilding them.

They are using a 80 ton press the get the hub off!

I wonder if Moss are getting them to build them?

John

PS should have added that the hubs are run for 15 mins in the lathe after the initial setting, it adds if you cannot do this, check the clearance after 50 miles of use.

Edited by John L
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That's a major benefit of these new hubs, they are made to be adjustable with shims without having to "nuke" the assembly with a press capable of splitting the "space-time continuum".

 

Mick Richards

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GBP 720.00 a pair is a lot of money, but what is a life worth ?

 

Loosing a wheel after a rear stub axle shear off is not unusual.

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John,

 

Using an 80 ton hydraulic press is not the way to break Triumph tapers, if you want to use the bits again. They have to be put under load, hence the Churchill tool for the Triumph Hubs then using an alum. drift and big hammer hit the drift with a few smart blows.This may even include leaving the taper under load for a few hours. They have often cold welded together and shock is the only way to break the taper, with it under load, without writing it off, by other methods. Also heat may have to be applied but this may affect any heat treatment.

 

Bruce..

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Dunno...maybe worth an enquiry to find out is the thickness on the back or the front of the flange.

 

The Classic Driving Developments write up includes the same spec for Stag and TR IRS cars

http://www.classicdrivingdevelopment.co.uk/cats.asp?cID=2&carID=3&page=TR6+REAR+UJ+HUB%2C+NEW+%26+UPRATED

but there's no mention of increased flange thickness (only increased flange radii) or whether the hubs are pre run in before setting end float.

 

Good parts also offers the upgraded new hubs and they will fit the TR but there is a small problem of different continent. The running of the hubs in a lathe to "bed in " the bearings before setting the end float is a worthwhile practice though whichever hub manufacturer is used.

 

Edit : from your other thread you say the CDD flange is thicker so that, as you say, would give the further flange outset if not accommodated within the rear of the flange.

 

Mick Richards

The ally hub housing and the flange look to me to be exactly the same as the CV jointed design type so possibly will have the same excess width, not tried them though..

Stuart.

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Looks very nice that nice shiny hub! But, I would have liked to see that stiff nut a bit more in safety! A minimum of 1 and a half threads!

Talking of preloading taper bearings a typical 747 wheel nut is loaded to 500 ft lbs then backed off and retorqued to 200 -250 ft lbs.

 

@Roger I think you'd be impressed by some of the NDT equipment we have now! But even then inspection can be subjective. Carrying out front spar inspections on the 747 fleet we had to get into a tank to further inspect after a false positive!

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just found that topic. maybe I am a little late with my story, but I would like you to know about my experience with the Bastuck-hub:

I bought one 2015 to replace my original one. After just 200 mls I noticed some play in the hub. First we (me with a help from a professional garage with loads of TR-experience) try to adjust the hub. But that did not last for long. So we decided to open the hub. What we did see was more or less "irritating": the key in the key way of the stub shaft was damaged. It was not hardened! So it was just a matter of time that something seriously could happened. Was irritated me even more was the reaction of Bastuck. They did not show any kind of interest to that issue. They just told me, send it in and we will see. But if you have opened the hub you will have problems with our guarantee. Thats all. I try to explain the issue many times, that the problem with the key is a safety issue most likely for other TR-owners more than just me, but they did not care.

That was it for me and Bastuck. Never ever.

rgs

Cas

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I am having some work done at Crown Classics (don't enjoy crawling under the car these days) and one hub needs replacing.

 

They used to send old hubs to Moss for reconditioning but last time they sent five and only one was suitable.

 

Since then they have been using the new hubs from Moss without any problems and showed me a pair they were about to fit which from the outside certainly looked quality items.

 

Cheers

 

Nigel

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Cas,

 

Triumph only used locking tapers and they were very good at it. The fact that the hub just fell off with the lock nut removed, signifies to me that the male and female tapers were not locked together as they s/b. That line across the key looks to me as if the hub was moving on the axle. How tight was the key in the key-way? and was the key made too low for the key-way in the hub flange, in its fixed position? I have seen that mark a number of times before and that was the case in all those applications.

 

Bruce.

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This all appears little alarming having fitted new bastuck hubs 18 months ago :(,

Edited by Clarkey
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I have been following this thread with interest as I am contemplating changing my rear hubs as I have done over 40,000 miles on those hubs & the total mileage is a tad over 135,000 miles & I don't know if they ever have been changed!! :o

 

Cheers

 

Mike. B)

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I have been following this thread with interest as I am contemplating changing my rear hubs as I have done over 40,000 miles on those hubs & the total mileage is a tad over 135,000 miles & I don't know if they ever have been changed!! :o

 

Cheers

 

Mike. B)

Mike

Std? has nobody messed with them before?

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Not as far as I am aware Neil that's my concern.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

Mike

You keep passing MOT :) any play ott would be found then,when it comes to time pm me,only if nobody has been there before the first giveaway is the lock tab.

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