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I have been following this post with interest. I too are thinking about replacing my hubs as history unknown. Whist pros and cons on differant hubs as to quality and fit for purpose spring to mind,The well known Bastuck supplier in London has recently increased price from £216 to £288 which is some increase. I'am therefore now turning my thoughts to CV joints from CDD. Have other TR drivers any thoughts on these units. I will watch with interest to see how developments take place on this subject. Going to Stoneleigh and wish others safe travel and an enjoyable day.

Kevine

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Bruce,

I do not know if I got you right. Only the key got damaged, not the shaft. In the moment of mounting the hub nothing was noticeable, all was fine on the first view. The Bastuck key has exactly the same size/measurements than the key of the old hub which we have used for the Bastuck hub after there key have failed. I drive this combination (Bastuck hub, originally key) since ca. 4000 mls with no problems but with not 100% good feeling.

For me (and the engineer of the garage who helped me a lot and has fixed many hubs) there are two causes that matters:

1. the material of the key was not hardened (like the originally)

2. the assembling of the hub was not accurate like it should be.

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I have been following this post with interest. I too are thinking about replacing my hubs as history unknown. Whist pros and cons on differant hubs as to quality and fit for purpose spring to mind,The well known Bastuck supplier in London has recently increased price from £216 to £288 which is some increase. I'am therefore now turning my thoughts to CV joints from CDD. Have other TR drivers any thoughts on these units. I will watch with interest to see how developments take place on this subject. Going to Stoneleigh and wish others safe travel and an enjoyable day.

Kevine

Kevine,

 

Check out the other post running concurrent "CV jointed shafts..." to see what you need to check as you fit them and also how to avoid damaging them when fitted.

 

Mick Richards

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
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Cas,

 

What surprised me was that the hub fell off the stub axle. The angles on the tapers are machined at very particular angles which are designed to lock up when the male and female are entered into one another. The fact that the hub fell off indicates that there is a problem here. The angles may be right? but the surface finish poor, it s/b a ground finish. The original Triumph tapers were that good even if you pushed the tapers together by hand they would lock up with out the key in place. You would then struggle to separate also when fully assembled with lock nut etc. they had a habit of cold welding, which makes separating difficult.

 

Bruce.

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Hi Folks,

to follow on from Richards contacts with Moss regarding his hubs.

 

I was at Moss yesterday and had a chat with the chap that does the building.

The logic is good, the engineering interesting and makes you think about the WSM

 

The chap has been building these hubs for a good number of years.

When packed with grease and assembled as per the WSM the hubs exhibit too much play after a number of miles.

If the same hub was built with no end float (but not rammed home) then it performs very well for a very long time.

 

So the logic is that done by the WSM it fails, done with ones own knowledge and experience it works - so what would you do?

This could question the WSM. For the write-up and pictures back in the late 50's was it assembled dry?

 

There is a remote possibility that a well packed bearing assembly may be hydraulic'ing.

 

I need a pair of hubs and will be buying these in the next week or so. I will carry out fortnightly checks for wear through the summer where I should do some 5000 miles.

 

The materials used appeared to be very good and sourced from the right people.

Timken/NTN bearings and the forged yoke/spindle sourced from a specialist in Sussex.

The chap building them showed that he understood very well what he was up to.

For instance, when separating old units he does not go silly with the press. He takes it so far and then shocks the assembly with a hammer/drift.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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Roger,

 

Still for me I would certainly like to know what grade of steel tubing they use for the crush tube as this will play a major part in keeping the end float at its original setting? By the way your work friend described another way that I was used to in setting up this type of bearing. We always used Shell Retinex but I cannot remember the grade ,as there is grease and grease, remember clutch bearings!. This might also be an area worth exploring?

 

Taking your point; was it assembled dry/? Reading my Brown Book para18, it could be interpreted that the bearing race is not packed with grease but only the housing at 1/2 full?

Bruce.

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Well I went with the TR shop Bastuck hubs as highly recommended on here, they are just fitted but not road tested as of yet. Well I am totally demoralised and not a clue what to do next. Bugger!!!

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Hi Kev,

don't panic. So far there has been one report of a hub that had excessive end float.

Be happy with your hubs but do as I will be doing, with the Moss hubs, and check them frequently (every couple of weeks or so).

 

Roger

Thanks Roger, what would you suggest to be a good way of checking the hubs are you using a dial gauge or just your eye?
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Hi Kev,

firstly no need for a DTI. Raise a wheel off the ground hold it at 12 & 6-o-clock and waggle it.

With the correct 0.002" - 0.004" there will be the very faintest amount of play.

As it wears the waggle gets bigger and becomes easily noticeable.

 

If the wear gets too big you will hear it rumbling both when driving and by spinning by hand.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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Roger,

 

My GKN hubs/drive shafts lasted 40 years one has 005" end float the other about 012"+ thou + the race(s) felt a bit rough, MOT man pulled me on this! They were both retired 2+ years ago when I went over to CV's of German manufacture. The other problem was that one drive shaft had worn splines even though u/j's & spines were greased regularly. I never replaced any of the u/j's. I always used the black grease. Therefore, in my view once the end float is set up, it should last many years.

 

Bruce.

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I did tell you mate ;)

Sorry neil can't remember that one :blink: as if you had said not to bother with them i would have not done so :unsure:

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Hi Kev,

firstly no need for a DTI. Raise a wheel off the ground hold it at 12 & 6-o-clock and waggle it.

With the correct 0.002" - 0.004" there will be the very faintest amount of play.

As it wears the waggle gets bigger and becomes easily noticeable.

 

If the wear gets too big you will hear it rumbling both when driving and by spinning by hand.

 

Roger

 

Thanks Roger.
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