John L Posted February 16, 2017 Report Share Posted February 16, 2017 (edited) There was an article in November Practical Classics about renovating the rear hubs at TD Fitchett, shows step buy step dismantling them and then rebuilding them. They are using a 80 ton press the get the hub off! I wonder if Moss are getting them to build them? John PS should have added that the hubs are run for 15 mins in the lathe after the initial setting, it adds if you cannot do this, check the clearance after 50 miles of use. Edited February 16, 2017 by John L Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Young Posted February 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2017 (edited) I agree everyone and thanks Roger for the excellent info. The Moss answer to this very suspect in my view. Now,where's the box they came in... Edited February 16, 2017 by Richard Young Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted February 16, 2017 Report Share Posted February 16, 2017 That's a major benefit of these new hubs, they are made to be adjustable with shims without having to "nuke" the assembly with a press capable of splitting the "space-time continuum". Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted February 16, 2017 Report Share Posted February 16, 2017 GBP 720.00 a pair is a lot of money, but what is a life worth ? Loosing a wheel after a rear stub axle shear off is not unusual. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted February 16, 2017 Report Share Posted February 16, 2017 John, Using an 80 ton hydraulic press is not the way to break Triumph tapers, if you want to use the bits again. They have to be put under load, hence the Churchill tool for the Triumph Hubs then using an alum. drift and big hammer hit the drift with a few smart blows.This may even include leaving the taper under load for a few hours. They have often cold welded together and shock is the only way to break the taper, with it under load, without writing it off, by other methods. Also heat may have to be applied but this may affect any heat treatment. Bruce.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 16, 2017 Report Share Posted February 16, 2017 Dunno...maybe worth an enquiry to find out is the thickness on the back or the front of the flange. The Classic Driving Developments write up includes the same spec for Stag and TR IRS cars http://www.classicdrivingdevelopment.co.uk/cats.asp?cID=2&carID=3&page=TR6+REAR+UJ+HUB%2C+NEW+%26+UPRATED but there's no mention of increased flange thickness (only increased flange radii) or whether the hubs are pre run in before setting end float. Good parts also offers the upgraded new hubs and they will fit the TR but there is a small problem of different continent. The running of the hubs in a lathe to "bed in " the bearings before setting the end float is a worthwhile practice though whichever hub manufacturer is used. Edit : from your other thread you say the CDD flange is thicker so that, as you say, would give the further flange outset if not accommodated within the rear of the flange. Mick Richards The ally hub housing and the flange look to me to be exactly the same as the CV jointed design type so possibly will have the same excess width, not tried them though.. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Barbusmaximus Posted February 16, 2017 Report Share Posted February 16, 2017 MOSS don't sub out any hub work, all hubs are built on site at the London premises. You can even pop in and meet the man who builds them. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted February 16, 2017 Report Share Posted February 16, 2017 Looks very nice that nice shiny hub! But, I would have liked to see that stiff nut a bit more in safety! A minimum of 1 and a half threads! Talking of preloading taper bearings a typical 747 wheel nut is loaded to 500 ft lbs then backed off and retorqued to 200 -250 ft lbs. @Roger I think you'd be impressed by some of the NDT equipment we have now! But even then inspection can be subjective. Carrying out front spar inspections on the 747 fleet we had to get into a tank to further inspect after a false positive! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 MOSS don't sub out any hub work, all hubs are built on site at the London premises. You can even pop in and meet the man who builds them. Roger,feel like a TRip? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 just found that topic. maybe I am a little late with my story, but I would like you to know about my experience with the Bastuck-hub: I bought one 2015 to replace my original one. After just 200 mls I noticed some play in the hub. First we (me with a help from a professional garage with loads of TR-experience) try to adjust the hub. But that did not last for long. So we decided to open the hub. What we did see was more or less "irritating": the key in the key way of the stub shaft was damaged. It was not hardened! So it was just a matter of time that something seriously could happened. Was irritated me even more was the reaction of Bastuck. They did not show any kind of interest to that issue. They just told me, send it in and we will see. But if you have opened the hub you will have problems with our guarantee. Thats all. I try to explain the issue many times, that the problem with the key is a safety issue most likely for other TR-owners more than just me, but they did not care. That was it for me and Bastuck. Never ever. rgs Cas Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Young Posted February 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 Thanks for that Cas,all good information for us. Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel A Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 I am having some work done at Crown Classics (don't enjoy crawling under the car these days) and one hub needs replacing. They used to send old hubs to Moss for reconditioning but last time they sent five and only one was suitable. Since then they have been using the new hubs from Moss without any problems and showed me a pair they were about to fit which from the outside certainly looked quality items. Cheers Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 Cas, You say the woodruf key was damaged? what sort of damage? were the key way-slots in the stub-axle and hub damaged and how difficult was it to remove the hub from the stub axle? Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 only the key was damaged. I was too soft, not hardened like it has to be. To remove the hub from the axle was quite simple, it just fall apart (the Bastuck) whereas to "dismantle" the original hub we need a 30 ton press and some dirty tricks. here is a photo: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 Hi Cas, that is a parallel key not a woodruff key. Does a similar job though. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 (edited) Well, I have never wrote "woodruff key" ,-). But that is the correct key of the rear hub no matter what the name is (#5). Edited February 17, 2017 by Casar66 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 Hi Cas, Bruce mention Woodruff as that is a common key. I commented to clarify Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 Cas, Triumph only used locking tapers and they were very good at it. The fact that the hub just fell off with the lock nut removed, signifies to me that the male and female tapers were not locked together as they s/b. That line across the key looks to me as if the hub was moving on the axle. How tight was the key in the key-way? and was the key made too low for the key-way in the hub flange, in its fixed position? I have seen that mark a number of times before and that was the case in all those applications. Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clarkey Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 (edited) This all appears little alarming having fitted new bastuck hubs 18 months ago , Edited February 17, 2017 by Clarkey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 This all appears little alarming having fitted new bastuck hubs 18 months ago , I did tell you mate Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3739 Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 I have been following this thread with interest as I am contemplating changing my rear hubs as I have done over 40,000 miles on those hubs & the total mileage is a tad over 135,000 miles & I don't know if they ever have been changed!! Cheers Mike. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 I have been following this thread with interest as I am contemplating changing my rear hubs as I have done over 40,000 miles on those hubs & the total mileage is a tad over 135,000 miles & I don't know if they ever have been changed!! Cheers Mike. Mike Std? has nobody messed with them before? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3739 Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 Not as far as I am aware Neil that's my concern. Cheers Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 Not as far as I am aware Neil that's my concern. Cheers Mike Mike You keep passing MOT any play ott would be found then,when it comes to time pm me,only if nobody has been there before the first giveaway is the lock tab. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3739 Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 Cheers Neil much appreciated. Kind regards Mike. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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