Guest nco Posted December 18, 2005 Report Share Posted December 18, 2005 HI, Can anyone offer best advice on removal of steering wheel? I've removed the horn, the big nut in the middle is loose. However I cant get the wheel to budge of the the steering column splines. I've tried excessive force but dont want to break anything. Anyone got any tips and tricks? Would a puller work and where is the best place to atttach it? I'm trying to get at the bushes and rebuild the steering column over the winter. Neil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ron Posted December 18, 2005 Report Share Posted December 18, 2005 (edited) Hi Neil Grab the steering wheel at the LH side and give it a HARD pull towards you, then grab it by the RH side and heave it towards you, keep doing this on alternative sides and it will come off, leave the nut on a few turns to stop it hitting you in the face when it does release. I was told this trick by an old mechanic many years ago and it's never failed to work for me. Ron Edited December 18, 2005 by ron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted December 18, 2005 Report Share Posted December 18, 2005 (edited) I use to do it as Ron describes, but I use hands on top and legs at the lower side to produce a wobble on the steering wheel. With the nut on you might give some SHORT and GENTLE knocks with a plastic hammer on the inner column to free the wheel, I say short and gentle Jean Edited December 18, 2005 by jean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveR Posted December 18, 2005 Report Share Posted December 18, 2005 Put the large nut back onto the thread, but leave lose at the top of the thread. Now this may hurt! - put your forearms behide the wheel spokes and knock the wheel upwards, that is towards you. Normally it will then come lose and hit the large nut. If yes then remove the nut and pull off wheel. It you don't have the nut inplace the wheel will come off and hit you in the face! Yes I have been there. Hope that helps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted December 18, 2005 Report Share Posted December 18, 2005 I don't think it's necessary to remove the wheel to replace the bushings, is it? Mine comes out with column attached by slackening the clamp under the bonnet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest AndyTR250 Posted December 20, 2005 Report Share Posted December 20, 2005 Another method I have used on my car is the old "two hammer" trick. With the big nut slackened off to the end of the threads, place a suitable ball peen hammer on the end of the column shaft, and while seated, use your knees to push outwards on the back of the wheel and strike a goodly blow to the back side of the ball peen with your Thor knockoff hammer, or a nice beefy shot filled hammer of similar heft. If the wheel has not come off in a while several blows may be needed. Tippy-tapping will not do the job. Be sure to wear eye protection Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ron Posted December 21, 2005 Report Share Posted December 21, 2005 Another method I have used on my car is the old "two hammer" trick. With the big nut slackened off to the end of the threads, place a suitable ball peen hammer on the end of the column shaft, and while seated, use your knees to push outwards on the back of the wheel and strike a goodly blow to the back side of the ball peen with your Thor knockoff hammer, or a nice beefy shot filled hammer of similar heft. If the wheel has not come off in a while several blows may be needed. Tippy-tapping will not do the job. Be sure to wear eye protection This works well with a TR6 but don't try it on a car with a proper collapsible column or you'll end up with a big bill. Ron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest AndyTR250 Posted December 22, 2005 Report Share Posted December 22, 2005 This works well with a TR6 but don't try it on a car with a proper collapsible column or you'll end up with a big bill.Ron Ron: I have also used it on several NA model MGBs without incident. I wrote a "goodly" blow, not a "god-like" blow! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest nco Posted December 23, 2005 Report Share Posted December 23, 2005 Thanks for all the help! It came off eventually - knees wedged under the bottom pushing up and forearms hitting the top underside. Just needed more force than I first envisaged. (and I remembered to leave the wheel nut on! - nearly knocked myself out when I was younger trying the very same thing without the wheel nut! Not to be recommended!!) Next question! How do I now extract the sheer bolts on the steering lock? (They seem a pointless fitment so whilst the column is out I'll replace with normal bolts.) I can't see a punch or chisel working but will give it a go as the book says. (Got caught out with the UJ replacment last summer - tap with a hammer - yea right!! Any tips to speed up removal? Can then think about repairing and putting back together for the spring. - a way off I know but it's one of those spare 5 minute jobs that takes a winter to complete! Neil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Kirk Posted December 23, 2005 Report Share Posted December 23, 2005 Hi, Neil, I agree the shearbolts are pointless I replaced mine with allen cap head bolts.when removing the shear bolts I used a centre punch to drive them out.If I remember correctly them shifted quite easily Best of luck Phil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Laurie Posted December 24, 2005 Report Share Posted December 24, 2005 (edited) A little trick I learned a long time ago from my brother-in-law who owns a pub, was how to get a cork back in a wine bottle. All the pushing, pulling and twisting doesn't get you too far but if you tap it quite gently but very rapidly, like a woodpecker, it drives straight in with no effort. The same works in reverse on a steering wheel or most things that don't want to shift. My steering wheel hadn't been off for 15 years and wouldn't budge but with the rapid gentle tap method, albeit with a rubber mallet, she was off in seconds. Plenty of chances to try it with the wine bottle over Christmas. Just save some for me PS. When you put the steering wheel back you should notice that the head of the boss sits 1/16 inch below the splines. The nut is grooved out on one side only. be sure to put the groove on face down or you won't tighten up ythe steering wheel properly and may well damage the splines trying, making it really hard to get off again. Been there, done that! Kind regards Laurie Edited December 24, 2005 by Laurie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted December 24, 2005 Report Share Posted December 24, 2005 Laurie, I prefer your " rapid and gentle tap " method above the THOR hammer procedure You should realize that you may seriously damage parts at the other end of the column. Not a nice thought considering that your life might be affected by their condition I have some problems with the wine bottle theory, on my bottles the corks only go out, just don't see the necessity to put a cork back on an empty bottle Have a good time Jean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PLTR6 Posted September 7, 2021 Report Share Posted September 7, 2021 (edited) I know this is a 15 year old thread, but in case anyone is interested the short sharp frequent tap method still works in 2021.....I just did it. Thanks. Edited September 7, 2021 by PLTR6 typo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.