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Hi NIck/Brian,

quite a few of the popular wire wheels for the TR's these days can be tubeless - the spoke holes are sealed with a tape.

 

The older wires would leak like a sieve.

 

Roger

They are actually just sealed with silicon sealer and then tape over that, its crude but it does work.

Stuart.

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Michelin tubes are the only ones I would trust. My days of being able to afford Michelin tyres in TR sizes are long-gone. I have had the original T-Tracs on TR4A with wires (and tubes) and my TR3A with steels (and no tubes) and they are excellent. I will probably have to replace them soon with the current version which will no doubt be at least as good.

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Hi Tim,

 

the blurb on the Vredestein website would not lead you towards T Tracs, agreed . . . . .

 

Nevertheless, despite the budget price they seem to suit TRs very well indeed. Braking capability is very good, and the cornering performance excellent - not just in terms of adhesion, but also in terms of progressive breakaway when hanging out the tail . . . . . .

 

I've heard more than a few comments from satisfied owners of TRs from 2 through to 6, and as yet no dissatisfied comments.

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

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Hi Tim,

 

What Alec said plus:

 

My personal opinion is that many new TR owners believe they have acquired a sports car requiring something really special in terms of rubber (both in width and composition). Those of us brought up on TRs and tyres in the 60s, 70s, etc are well aware that tyre technology has far outstripped the requirements of the humble TR. Almost any medium-priced tyre will be sufficient for everyday TR-driving and for those of us who do still drive their TRs as they were intended to be driven, T-Tracs and similar quality tyres are far better than anything available 'back in the day' and will outperform the abilities of most owners!

 

And, there is no reason to go beyond the original tyre width and profile other than as necessary if you choose to fit alloys or wires which are only available in wider sizes.

In fact, going wider and lower profile is usually detrimental to both handling and enjoyment unless in a competitive environment.

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+ another 1 for the T-Trac 2. Following earlier strong recommendation on this Forum - thanks Alec et al - I fitted these (tubed) in 165/80R15 on the original size wires on my 4A and endorse all that has so far been said in their favour on this latest thread. In addition I find they also inspire confidence in very wet conditions, they do seem to have particularly good water dispersion capability. Braking and steering response are very good on wet roads (though not both at the same time of course!).

 

Tim

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Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated. One more question, ignoring the cost factor would you fit Pirelli Cinturatos in the 155x15 size or the T-Trac 2s?

Tim

Money no object I definitely would go for the Pirelli Cinturatos - but in 165x15 (TR4A).

No idea whether they're actually any better than the T-Tracs, but they certainly look wonderful!

(I was buying 5 new wheels and 5 new tyres when I opted for the T-Tracs)

Cheers

Tony

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They are actually just sealed with silicon sealer and then tape over that, its crude but it does work.

Stuart.

 

While I wouldn't presume to argue against Stuart's (or other's) experience on the tubeless wires, I would recommend (Michelin) tubes at all times on wire wheels - even those deemed "tubeless"...unless there's evidence that it's actually COUNTER-productive for some reason.

 

I doubt there are many here who will rally their TR in the snow, but I was once sidelined with two flats on one event when I (gently) drifted into a 1-foot snow bank and had both RHS tyres fully deflate due to, I presume, being pushed off the rim briefly (later examination had both tyres seating well on the rims, with no punctures). If I'd had tubes, as I always ran before and ALWAYS run now, I think I would have been fine - it's not the first, or last, time I have played with snow banks...

 

Obviously, maybe this is an "edge case", as they say; just thought I'd share. If there's no reason NOT to fit tubes on all wires, I'd argue that you should fit them.

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While I wouldn't presume to argue against Stuart's (or other's) experience on the tubeless wires, I would recommend (Michelin) tubes at all times on wire wheels - even those deemed "tubeless"...unless there's evidence that it's actually COUNTER-productive for some reason.

 

I doubt there are many here who will rally their TR in the snow, but I was once sidelined with two flats on one event when I (gently) drifted into a 1-foot snow bank and had both RHS tyres fully deflate due to, I presume, being pushed off the rim briefly (later examination had both tyres seating well on the rims, with no punctures). If I'd had tubes, as I always ran before and ALWAYS run now, I think I would have been fine - it's not the first, or last, time I have played with snow banks...

 

Obviously, maybe this is an "edge case", as they say; just thought I'd share. If there's no reason NOT to fit tubes on all wires, I'd argue that you should fit them.

Hey I went belt and braces when I had vredestien classic sprints fitter to my last car (sp250) and fitted tubes with the steel wheels. (It's not a requirement but my choice) as were these tube valve ferrules to protect the tube vale / wheel vale hole interface.

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/151672154910?_mwBanner=1

Professional tyre fitters happy to do it.

No neg effects on the road.

H

Edited by Hamish
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Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated. One more question, ignoring the cost factor would you fit Pirelli Cinturatos in the 155x15 size or the T-Trac 2s?

Tim

Regardless of the merits of either make, it may be worth noting that the 165 T-Tracs (at least the originals) do not fit in the spare wheel compartment on my post-TS60000 TR3A unless deflated. This is due to the thicker sidewalls and raised lettering, whereas previous Uniroyals of the same size fitted OK. If this is an issue, especially with earlier side-screen cars with a slightly smaller (reduced height) spare wheel compartment, then be prepared to carry a foot-pump or go for 155s.

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While I wouldn't presume to argue against Stuart's (or other's) experience on the tubeless wires, I would recommend (Michelin) tubes at all times on wire wheels - even those deemed "tubeless"...unless there's evidence that it's actually COUNTER-productive for some reason.

 

I doubt there are many here who will rally their TR in the snow, but I was once sidelined with two flats on one event when I (gently) drifted into a 1-foot snow bank and had both RHS tyres fully deflate due to, I presume, being pushed off the rim briefly (later examination had both tyres seating well on the rims, with no punctures). If I'd had tubes, as I always ran before and ALWAYS run now, I think I would have been fine - it's not the first, or last, time I have played with snow banks...

 

Obviously, maybe this is an "edge case", as they say; just thought I'd share. If there's no reason NOT to fit tubes on all wires, I'd argue that you should fit them.

Tim I was only stating how they are sealed to make them tubeless plus obviously there is a different profile to the rim edge where the tyre sits, it was not a recommendation to go tubeless ;)

Stuart.

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My penny's worth...

 

When I bought my 5 MWS TR4A wire wheels (about 4 years ago) they were their tubeless rims. The whole area at the base of the rim was sealed off. I would presume the rim edges where the tyre sits are also "tubeless". I was delighted to be able to fit my new tyres without tubes. They have behaved perfectly, just like a "normal" modern wheel and tyre combination.

 

To me, the trouble with tubes is that they are "all or nothing". You either have a wheel full of air or, within a few seconds, you have a completely flat tyre. Yes, it is possible to dislodge a tubeless tyre by kerbing it badly, which has a similar "almost instant" result, and I have done that on my "modern". But it is far more likely that one picks a nail or one has the tube suffer from chafing. By and large I believe tubeless is far far safer.

 

Tony

Edited by tonycharente
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