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LED replacement bulbs for rear lamps


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Roger.

While you are making up your mind which way to go !!

Is the '2 +ve or -ve earth, Then I can make a start on building them as it's a rainy day.

 

Bob.

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Hi Bob

 

OK - decided.

 

I'll go for the brake/flash/side option with centre brake too.

Can you also supply the LED flasher unit that you mentioned in an earlier post?

How does this affect the front flashers? Do I need LEDs for those too?

 

For info, it's a TR2 with positive earth.

 

Do you need any more info?

 

Let me know how much and how you want it and I'll send the payment.

 

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm at work and trying to find the answers whilst the phone is going!

 

Thanks

Rog

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Nice fit and finish Bob.

They are exactly what is required on the rear of an early car to assist other drivers at night.

Could get irritating in traffic for the numpty in the 4x4 with his lights set too high behind me though....I hope.

 

 

Now, can the centre stop lamp red be used continuously? Would make a splendid single rear fog lamp. I guess a simple diode before the switched feed, in the brake electric cable where it connects to the lamp would stop feed to the other two stop lamps.

 

Peter W

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Now, can the centre stop lamp red be used continuously? Would make a splendid single rear fog lamp. I guess a simple diode before the switched feed, in the brake electric cable where it connects to the lamp would stop feed to the other two stop lamps.

 

Peter W

 

I would not advocate that the brake light bulbs be kept on for long periods, they do get hot, & were really only intended for normal use as brakes (or indicators) A reduced current version could easily be made which would cope better, but at the cost of slightly lower intensity.

If the demand is there ---------

 

Bob.

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I would not advocate that the brake light bulbs be kept on for long periods, they do get hot, & were really only intended for normal use as brakes (or indicators) A reduced current version could easily be made which would cope better, but at the cost of slightly lower intensity.

If the demand is there ---------

 

Bob.

 

Having thought about this one, the solution is easy, As Peter says you would need a diode in between the centre brake light connection, & the brake light circuit to prevent all three lights coming on with the "HIFL" (High intensity foglight).

Tto reduce the current through the LED bulb to a level which would be safe to maintain for long periods you would simply need a resistor of say 10 ohms at a 1watt rating to be wired in series with the wire which goes to the HIFL switch.

 

Bob.

Edited by Lebro
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Having thought about this one, the solution is easy, As Peter says you would need a diode in between the centre brake light connection, & the brake light circuit to prevent all three lights coming on with the "HIFL" (High intensity foglight).

Tto reduce the current through the LED bulb to a level which would be safe to maintain for long periods you would simply need a resistor of say 10 ohms at a 1watt rating to be wired in series with the wire which goes to the HIFL switch.

 

Bob.

Sounds like a 'Lebro Kit' coming our way soon.....

Peter W

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Hello Bob

Received lights on Thursday and installed them yesterday. Everything is fine, lights nice and bright, much better than standard arrangement.
It took longer than I had assumed, reflectors were stuck fast to the seals (South African heat I expect), I had to cut around with a Stanley Knife. I had taken them off prior to receiving the lights from you so I had new seals from Moss ready to install. Used a four-way bullet head adaptor to join up the green/purple wires.
Used a small kitchen unit bracket secured to the bulk head and pushed the Flasher rubber band onto it. Very neat!

Many thanks Bob.

Best wishes
Rob

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Rob.

 

I assume you were going to change the seals anyway, as you would not have needed to disturb the light unit, just remove the cover,

& feed the green / purple wire through the existing hole where the other wires go through.

A photo of the flasher unit installation would be useful to others, it sounds very neat.

 

Glad you like them & sorry for the delay.

 

Bob.

Edited by Lebro
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  • 3 weeks later...

A quick word about flasher relays before I set off to sunnier (well hotter anyway) climes.

 

I have in the past suggested the use of this flasher unit from Bettercarlighting:

 

http://www.bettercarlighting.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=317

 

It claims to work for any combination of LED & "normal" bulbs, & also claims to work for +ve or -ve earth.

 

There are problems with this unit which two of us have experienced, I have swapped to a second unit, which gave the same problem.

1) If using all led bulbs the flash rate seems OK at tickover, but can become very erratic when revs are raised

2) If using on a +ve earth car the pilot light connection cannot be used.

 

Many of Gils' products are very good - but not this one, I opened one up & traced out it's circuit - I would not now ever use one !

 

Instead I am now recommending this one:

 

https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/indicator-relays-electronic/products/12v-electronic-indicator-flasher-relay-classic-car-with-oe-click-x-l-p-2-3-pin

 

It is available in 4 forms - 6 or 12 volt, & +ve or -ve earth pilot light works in all versions, it gives a nice "tick" sound, & having looked inside one I can say that it is of much higher quality. Also it's cheaper as the quoted price includes VAT & postage is free (to UK)

 

Mounting it is the only slight oddity, but Rob's method in the previous post works well, & I have done the same.

I also suspect that the diameter of the unit is near enough the same as an original metal can flasher, so the purist could probably fit the circuit into an old can. I may well do this once I have located an old flasher unit (anybody got a duff one they don't want ?)

 

Cheers

Bob.

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Hi

 

I have tested this one on My tr2 with Bob's leds.

 

http://www.optitune.nl/knipperlicht-relais-3-pol-12v-21w

 

It works like a charm, mind you i have negative earth.

 

I have fitted this in an original canister which i opened up at the back. Because of the metal housing earthing is fine and looks Very original.

 

They ship abroad.

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  • 1 year later...

Bob

I've come to this chat a bit late but am interested in your stop/tail/indicator board. They will actually be for a Jaguar XK140 but it has the same Lucas 549 rear light fittings a s your TRs

Is it possible to buy a pair from you and please confirm price and payment details

Many thanks

Ian

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Hi Ian.

Yes I can do that. Need to know if +ve or -ve earth.  £12 each.

It is not a "board" it is an LED equivalent of the original bulb, placing the light source in the correct place for the lens in the L549 red cover to work.

Can you send a PM (personal message) to me with your name, & address.

I can get them to you within a few days.

PayPal is easiest way to pay, or cheque.  Pay on receiving them

Cheers

Bob.

P.S.

Does the Jag have separate rear indicators, or do the stop lamps double as flashers ?

If the latter then you will need to have an LED compatible flasher unit (which I can source for you)

Edited by Lebro
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I now see that the 140 would have had wiring (& DB10 relay) to combine stop, & flash functions on the rear lamps.

That's OK, you will just need to upgrade to an LED compatible flasher unit to enable use of LED rear bulbs.

you could also upgrade the front to led sidelight (white) changing to amber when flashing.

Bob.

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On 2/8/2019 at 2:45 PM, Lebro said:

you could also upgrade the front to led sidelight (white) changing to amber when flashing.

Bob.

Did this on my 3A to keep the clear sidelight glasses. Very effective. Very clever these LEDs!

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