Marcel Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 Hi I'm new to the TR6 but not new to classic cars, I need advice please. I have a horrible noise / resonance just started when I switch on my heater fan. Is this a motor change if so is this a large job? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 (edited) Yes... Triumph first started with a heater and then built the car around it*! Actually it is a case of undoing 4 bolts (1 pointing towards the engine into the firewall) and three (2 at the front and 1 at the back) pointing upwards. You also have to undo the two water pipes deep at the back of the dash above the clutch pedal, the heater flap control and the heater air pipes, unplug the wires. Drop the heater down and try to manoeuvre it past all the wires. I have shown some details on: http://72tr6.blogspot.co.uk/ Also shows how you can upgrade the motor. Cheers Tim * it is not as bad as a lotus elan +2 where you have to remove the rear window in order to get the area under the dash where the heater is! Edited January 22, 2017 by Tim D. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marcel Posted January 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 (edited) Thanks Tim, sounds like fun. That's also a really useful link. Edited January 22, 2017 by Marcel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aardvark Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 I've just replaced my heater. Nightmare.  Probably took 2 hours to dismantle to get the heater out. Then another 2 hours putting the heater back (a new one). Then another hour putting the heater hoses back on (Arrrrggggghhhhh).  Its just possible to do all this without removing the gearbox tunnel, seats or H frame.... just.  Be prepared to scrape your knuckles, cut your arms and swear a lot. And end up with a bit of back ache.  Cheers  Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marcel Posted January 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 (edited) Thanks Dave that's good to know, at least I can get it done in a day. I thought I might find those wild cats behind that dash, badly cut tie wraps and other sharp things. Did You get a complete heater or just the motor? I'm assuming the dash still has to come out? Edited January 22, 2017 by Marcel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 (edited) Have the small water hoses in the cabin been replaced? Edited January 22, 2017 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elclem1 Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 Spray some wd40 into the vent near the bonnet when the fan is running. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jamesStag Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 Hi Marcel, I have an alternative option that you might like to try to the above. The 'resonance' noise that you have is probably a dry bearing on the motor fan so the normal solution would be to lubricate it. Of course the motor is well hidden away except I've found there is a way to get some access to it... or at least this worked when I had the issue on my car. From memory (without heading off to the cold barn where my car is tonight to check) if you remove the jubilee clip on the black flexible hose that is rear most on the heater assembly box you can look up inside the hose port with a torch and see the side of the top part of the circular fan motor. you then need either an oil can with a long flexible hose on it, like washer fluid hose, or a spray grease can with a long straw. you can guide the pipe up the port with the torch and place it centrally on the motor top (you can't quite see the actual fan shaft but you can estimate where it centrally should be). Do a quick pump / squirt and in my case a smooth fan operation returned for a couple of years or so until it needed doing again. Sure I realise its a quick work around to the permanent fix of a new motor, but given this is 10 mins every couple of years or so compared to the head-ache of removing the whole heater it does the job for me!! Â Good luck, Cheers, James. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marcel Posted January 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Thanks guys there's some good information here, I think I'll try the lubrication option for now and see how we get on, get the motor for next year. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 James, sounds like a good trick! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 mine makes a horrible noise when first turned on but when turned off then back on it's perfectly quiet. Done this for 5 years now but i should sort it. Marcel dose this work on yours ? Any suggestions guys ? Â Roy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Collins Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Mine was very noisy and seemed about to seize, there is very little clearance between the fan blade tips and the casing. There is also enough slack in the motor mountings for it to be off centre, allowing the tips to scrape. Carefull reassembly should give even tip clearance but the motor needs to be run on the bench and the casing flexed to test before refitting. Â Mike. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 As I pointed out if the small hoses have been forced of or on you will shift the matrix Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marcel Posted January 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 There's some great feedback, I've just spoken to TRGB and they have advised me if I go down the route of replacing the motor I have to be very patient in removing the fan as the plastic gets brittle. Also soak the shaft with penetrating oil to help release it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3739 Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Hi Marcel maybe a little gentle heat from a heat gun or hairdryer may do the trick?  Others may offer some more suggestions  Cheers  Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sapphire72 Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Spray some wd40 into the vent near the bonnet when the fan is running. Â Nice & simple, low cost, nothing lost in it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted January 24, 2017 Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 It is true you do have to be very careful with the fan. Taking your time is the most important thing. If you do take it apart getting hold of a new motor (like the one used in US school buses) is a great upgrade.. Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Damson6 Posted January 25, 2017 Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 (edited) mine makes a horrible noise when first turned on but when turned off then back on it's perfectly quiet. Done this for 5 years now but i should sort it. Marcel dose this work on yours ? Any suggestions guys ? Â Roy I have the same problem switch on and it screams, switch off and on again and no problems for the last 30years!! I might try the WD40 suggestion. Edited January 25, 2017 by Damson6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aardvark Posted January 25, 2017 Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 Thanks Dave that's good to know, at least I can get it done in a day. I thought I might find those wild cats behind that dash, badly cut tie wraps and other sharp things. Did You get a complete heater or just the motor? I'm assuming the dash still has to come out? Yes I bought the complete heater including the box from Clayton. I found it much harder to get the bu$$er back in than to get the old one out. Yes the dash has to be partly removed. I removed the speedo and tacho entirely but just pulled the minor gauges through the wooden dash leaving all cables attached..... well not quite true, I did remove the temp gauge, put it on the workbench and it rolled off and exploded on the floor arrrrrgggghhhhh. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jamesStag Posted January 25, 2017 Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 Tim, Roy & Damson. Yes my fan was just like you say. 1st turn on and within a couple of seconds it screeches/resonates. Turn off and on again and next time it tends to run smoothly for the rest of the day. When I've done the lube trick with the oil can then it runs nice and smooth for couple years... Cheers, J. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marcel Posted January 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 The only thing I would say about spraying oil into the intake is everything is going to coated with oil including the heater matrix. This will attract dust restricting airflow and eventually get clogged. I'm going for an accurately placed drop of oil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jamesStag Posted January 30, 2017 Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 Marcel, I agree... hence my oil can and plastic pipe suggestion up one of the cold air pipes. Whilst the WD40 at air intake that was mentioned above, may also work. in my view that will leave quite pungent smelling air afterwards. Â Cheers, J. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elclem1 Posted February 2, 2017 Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 It doesn't need much WD a small squirt will do. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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