Z320 Posted December 6, 2019 Report Share Posted December 6, 2019 I ordered at Burton, very fast delivery. With some luck I will fit and trst them tomorrow. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel C Posted December 6, 2019 Report Share Posted December 6, 2019 Z320, any chance you go divulge the code as I've looked on their website and can only find mainly Ford parts (of which they are known for) and I'd already looked on Revingtons and was a little shocked at the price!...or is this the norm? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted December 6, 2019 Report Share Posted December 6, 2019 (edited) MGB633M1144, brake pads RS/Mk2 Escort/Capri, but without warranty, I have not fitted them yet! Thanks to Andi's advice on this thread Edited December 6, 2019 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted December 6, 2019 Report Share Posted December 6, 2019 I got my M1144 pads from TR Enterprises, they even drilled them out to suit my imperial pins, great service. Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CK's TR6 Posted December 6, 2019 Report Share Posted December 6, 2019 I have toyo vented four pots, the rears can make a big difference. Three clicks on the handbrake is about where the rears should be adjusted to. Now, I have wilwood/discs at the rear. I am running KFP gold pads front and rear. Ted Schumacher at TSI sourced/made them. The car stops well, even cold. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KiwiTR6 Posted December 7, 2019 Report Share Posted December 7, 2019 (edited) On 1/6/2017 at 6:14 AM, Nick Jones said: My personal favourite for normal to spirited road use is Mintex 1144, which has very good bite even when stone cold. Though I have managed to fade them (pad fade not fluid fade), this involved some pretty extreme use in big mountains and was on a Vitesse which uses the same calipers as (std) TR6 but with smaller discs. With your bigger and now vented discs I'd think you'd be fine for road use and track days. Nick I have Mintex 1144's in the front and upgraded the rear cylinders to the fractionally larger Morgan part. My WOF (Warrant of Fitness - yes we still need one over here and what's worse is that it's every 6 monhs!) tester told me they're the best brakes he's tested on a classic car. They do squeal a bit when cold but that's because I used spray-on anti-sqeal and ditched the shims. I didn't like the way the pistons only half sit on the shims. Perhaps thats how they work, but seems like bad engineering to me. The pads came from Revington's from memory. Edited December 7, 2019 by KiwiTR6 spelling Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted December 7, 2019 Report Share Posted December 7, 2019 Crikey ! A roadworthy test every 6 months ! I use the spray on anti squeal - maybe it wasn't invented when Girling originally designed the TR6 brakes using shims. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KiwiTR6 Posted December 7, 2019 Report Share Posted December 7, 2019 2 minutes ago, Mike C said: Crikey ! A roadworthy test every 6 months ! I use the spray on anti squeal - maybe it wasn't invented when Girling originally designed the TR6 brakes using shims. Yeah it's crazy. Any vehicle registered after1 Jan 2000 is on a 12-month WOF, new vehicles have a 3-year interval to first inspection - then back to 12-months, whereas my poor old girl who only gets drive a few hundred km's between inspections has to have it done every 6 months. It's a pain in the neck and what's crazier still (although better of course) is that she is on classic registration and insurance which are both very cheap due to the "general high standard of car maintenance and low annual mileage" that classics do. Bureaucracy.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted December 7, 2019 Report Share Posted December 7, 2019 Certainly makes life difficult. I'd be up for 3x6month and 2x12 month inspections each year. In Victoria roadworthy inspections are only required when a vehicle changes ownership. Much as I like NZ , I think I'll stay here. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted December 7, 2019 Report Share Posted December 7, 2019 Allow me to mention, it is very sad - the structure of this forum. This question is the same on all TR2-6 and this post would be easy to find on the "issue" brakes. Other issues would be: gearbox, steering, wheels/tyres, carb, ignition.....all the same or similar the same. Very easy to find in such a system. Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted December 7, 2019 Report Share Posted December 7, 2019 You are quite right Marco - the information is very scattered across all the different cars and it would be very useful to have common headings for common parts. However it would still be difficult to prevent people posting those topics under their particular model so it may not help much. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted December 7, 2019 Report Share Posted December 7, 2019 (edited) . Edited December 7, 2019 by Motorsport Mickey I pad jumped forums and posted incorrectly Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted December 7, 2019 Report Share Posted December 7, 2019 (edited) In my forum structure there would be no issue anymore like TR2/3, TR4/4A,.....! Because they are not basically "different". Impossible? Imagine the wourld would be a ball, not flat - as we know it today. Ciao, Marco Edited December 7, 2019 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KiwiTR6 Posted December 7, 2019 Report Share Posted December 7, 2019 14 hours ago, Mike C said: Certainly makes life difficult. I'd be up for 3x6month and 2x12 month inspections each year. In Victoria roadworthy inspections are only required when a vehicle changes ownership. Much as I like NZ , I think I'll stay here. Ditto, I like Aussie and visit fairly often, but it's far too hot for my liking. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted December 7, 2019 Report Share Posted December 7, 2019 39 degrees C here tomorrow and it's only early December. In weather like this I like to finish any runs the TR before 11am and have it back in its garage my midday. I've only had a serious overheating problem about 20 years ago when I was stuck in a monster traffic jam on the Melbourne freeways in 40 degree heat- for some mysterious reason the clutch burnt out during that episode. Now days the car lives in the rural mountains - when it's on the road it's running at a gallop. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 8, 2019 Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 On 12/7/2019 at 12:34 AM, KiwiTR6 said: I have Mintex 1144's in the front and upgraded the rear cylinders to the fractionally larger Morgan part. My WOF (Warrant of Fitness - yes we still need one over here and what's worse is that it's every 6 monhs!) tester told me they're the best brakes he's tested on a classic car. They do squeal a bit when cold but that's because I used spray-on anti-sqeal and ditched the shims. I didn't like the way the pistons only half sit on the shims. Perhaps thats how they work, but seems like bad engineering to me. The pads came from Revington's from memory. The anti squeal shims do only sit on haf the piston in order to cock it over slightly. The squeal is caused by an edge of the pad touching the disc this causes the other side of the pad to hit the disc and it self lifting. This opposite side touching repeats until the whole pad is touching - hence the squeal. So shims work better than others. The EBC Teflon stick on pad between the brake pad and piston works very well. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KiwiTR6 Posted December 9, 2019 Report Share Posted December 9, 2019 17 hours ago, RogerH said: The EBC Teflon stick on pad between the brake pad and piston works very well. Roger Thanks Roger, I'll have to check them out Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.