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I got my M1144 pads from TR Enterprises, they even drilled them out to suit my imperial pins, great service.

Ian

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I have toyo vented four pots, the rears can make a big difference.  Three clicks on the handbrake is about where the rears should be adjusted to. Now, I have wilwood/discs at the rear. I am running KFP gold pads front and rear. Ted Schumacher at TSI sourced/made them. The car stops well, even cold.

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On 1/6/2017 at 6:14 AM, Nick Jones said:

My personal favourite for normal to spirited road use is Mintex 1144, which has very good bite even when stone cold. Though I have managed to fade them (pad fade not fluid fade), this involved some pretty extreme use in big mountains and was on a Vitesse which uses the same calipers as (std) TR6 but with smaller discs. With your bigger and now vented discs I'd think you'd be fine for road use and track days.

Nick

I have Mintex 1144's in the front  and upgraded the rear cylinders to the fractionally larger Morgan part.  My WOF (Warrant of Fitness - yes we still need one over here and what's worse is that it's every 6 monhs!) tester told me they're the best brakes he's tested on a classic car.  They do squeal a bit when cold but that's because I used spray-on anti-sqeal and ditched the shims.  I didn't like the way the pistons only half sit on the shims.  Perhaps thats how they work, but seems like bad engineering to me. 

The pads came from Revington's from memory.

Edited by KiwiTR6
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2 minutes ago, Mike C said:

Crikey ! A roadworthy test every 6 months ! 

I use the spray on anti squeal - maybe it wasn't invented when Girling originally designed the TR6 brakes using shims.  

Yeah it's crazy.  Any vehicle registered after1 Jan  2000 is on a 12-month WOF, new vehicles have a 3-year interval to first inspection - then back to 12-months, whereas my poor old girl who only gets drive a few hundred km's between inspections has to have it done every 6 months.  It's a pain in the neck and what's crazier still (although better of course) is that she is on classic registration and insurance which are both very cheap due to the "general high standard of car maintenance and low annual mileage" that classics do.

Bureaucracy....

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Allow me to mention,

it is very sad - the structure of this forum.

This question is the same on all TR2-6 and this post would be easy to find on the "issue" brakes.

Other issues would be: gearbox, steering, wheels/tyres, carb, ignition.....all the same or similar the same.

Very easy to find in such a system.

Ciao, Marco

 

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You are quite right Marco -  the information is very scattered across all the different cars and it would be very useful to have common headings for common parts. However it would still be difficult to prevent people posting those topics under their particular model so it may not help much.

 

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.

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
I pad jumped forums and posted incorrectly
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In my forum structure there would be no issue anymore like TR2/3, TR4/4A,.....!

Because they are not basically "different".

Impossible? Imagine the wourld would be a ball, not flat - as we know it today.

Ciao, Marco

Edited by Z320
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14 hours ago, Mike C said:

Certainly makes life difficult. I'd be up for 3x6month and 2x12 month inspections each year. In Victoria roadworthy inspections are only required when a vehicle changes ownership. Much as I like NZ , I think I'll stay here.

Ditto, I like Aussie and visit fairly often, but it's far too hot for my liking.

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39 degrees C here tomorrow and it's only early December. In weather like this I like to  finish any runs  the TR before 11am and have it back in its garage my midday. I've only had a serious  overheating problem about 20 years ago when I was stuck in a monster traffic jam on the Melbourne freeways in 40 degree heat- for some mysterious  reason the clutch burnt out during that episode. Now days the car lives in the rural mountains - when it's on the road it's running at a gallop.

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On 12/7/2019 at 12:34 AM, KiwiTR6 said:

I have Mintex 1144's in the front  and upgraded the rear cylinders to the fractionally larger Morgan part.  My WOF (Warrant of Fitness - yes we still need one over here and what's worse is that it's every 6 monhs!) tester told me they're the best brakes he's tested on a classic car.  They do squeal a bit when cold but that's because I used spray-on anti-sqeal and ditched the shims.  I didn't like the way the pistons only half sit on the shims.  Perhaps thats how they work, but seems like bad engineering to me. 

The pads came from Revington's from memory.

The anti squeal shims do only sit on haf the piston in order to cock it over slightly.

The squeal is caused by an edge of the pad touching the disc this causes the other side of the pad to hit the disc and it self lifting.

This opposite side touching repeats until the whole pad is touching - hence the squeal.  So shims work better than others.

The EBC Teflon stick on pad between the brake pad and piston works very well.

 

Roger

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