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Fuel pump not running


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Right out of the blue, turned the ignition on and not a sound from the Bosch pump. So no fuel getting through. It was fine last week when I had to turn the ignition on briefly to test an auxiliary circuit.

 

What to do?

 

Terry

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Inertia switch - pull plunger up and push it down again, clean, replace

Fuse - replace, but why did it blow?

Relay - test/replace

Dodgy earth - spend ages tracking down dodgy earth to relay and pump :-)

 

One of the above, probably :-)

Edited by SDerbyshire
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I don't have full access to the car at the moment (surrounded by other 'junk'), but I have wiggled the inertia switch and checked the fuses. The fuses look OK, but I tried the indicators and the N/S ones work fine, but on the O/S I get non flashing lights at the front and no lights at all at the rear! Does this indicate anything, other than perhaps a blown bulb?

 

Terry

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Indicator flasher capsule is above passenger's left foot. Known failure point.

 

That wont affect the fuel pump.And I would as Roger and Neil have said first suspect the inertia switch - link the two wires under it together ( ensure neither can touch earth!) as a thorough test.

 

Peter

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Just tried Peter's tip and, yes, it is the inertia switch.

 

I'm learning a lot about my new TR 6 very rapidly :)

 

Terry

Its a nasty failure point that TR6ers need to beware of- it can fail while driving without warning, leaving a dead engine. Very dangerous if it fails while overtaking etc. There's modern replacements that do the job reliably.

Peter

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Hi Peter

 

Yes there is a modern replacement - Rimmers want £53 for it, but I guess there is no alternative.

 

It looks quite a bit more complex - does anyone have any experience of fitting one?

 

Thanks

 

Terry

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Hi Peter

 

Yes there is a modern replacement - Rimmers want £53 for it, but I guess there is no alternative.

 

It looks quite a bit more complex - does anyone have any experience of fitting one?

 

Thanks

 

Terry

Terry, Recent thread here:

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/59400-inertia-switch/?hl=%2Binertia+%2Brover&do=findComment&comment=496108

-someone who has done the replacement will be along.

Peter

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Just bypass it. Join the wires together. Early PI cars didn't have it anyway.

Mine is bypassed- after two on road fails - but my SU is not a serious fire risk in a collision. Unlike 105psi fuel lines.

I suppose a risk analysis has to compare the consequences of a failing Lucas switch killing the engine on the road, with the risk of fire from fuel spraying after a collision. So I think I agree with you, if the switch is dodgy - and many are. A suddenly dead engine is more likely than a collision resulting in a fuel fire.

That said, a reliable switch is the safest solution.

Peter

Edited by Peter Cobbold
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The inertia switch sold by Moss etc seems to be also fitted to Jaguar/Rover/Range rovers

 

And is therefore available more cheaply elsewhere?

 

Edited by Steves_TR6
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Mine is bypassed- after two on road fails - but my SU is not a serious fire risk in a collision. Unlike 105psi fuel lines.

I suppose a risk analysis has to compare the consequences of a failing Lucas switch killing the engine on the road, with the risk of fire from fuel spraying after a collision. So I think I agree with you, if the switch is dodgy - and many are. A suddenly dead engine is more likely than a collision resulting in a fuel fire.

That said, a reliable switch is the safest solution.

Peter

 

Yes I agree it's got to be a rational decision for each individual. I weighed it up. My inertia switch never failed and in fact I have a spare kicking around somewhere. But I felt the chances of a smash that results in 105 psi of fuel spraying everywhere was really vanishingly small compared to the possibility of failure of the switch. It's a judgement we can all make and I guess we wouldn't all arrive at the same conclusion.

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Bypassing the inertia switch, on a car that has it fitted as standard, would be a 'modification' that you should inform your Insurance Company about.

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Right out of the blue, turned the ignition on and not a sound from the Bosch pump. So no fuel getting through. It was fine last week when I had to turn the ignition on briefly to test an auxiliary circuit.

What to do?

Terry

 

 

Terry, Recent thread here:

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/59400-inertia-switch/?hl=%2Binertia+%2Brover&do=findComment&comment=496108

-someone who has done the replacement will be along.

Peter

Terry

The one Peter referred to is mine.

So far . . .touch wood, it is fine.

I've done about 200 miles since fitting it and all seems well.

 

If you want to PM me, I can sent pictures and details of where it came from and how I fitted it.

 

I have had the car 3 years, it had no switch when I got her and I have fitted 2 of the original type.

I'm happier with the one I have now.

 

Personnally, with petrol at 105psi, in a car built in the 1970's by the UK auto industry, I want the fuel to stop flowing in a shunt (or worse)

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Also fitted on of these rover items. You can get them cheap from eBay and appart from finding a way to attach it to the bulkhead it is just a case of attaching it to the two wires in the loom.

Tim

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  • 2 weeks later...

Purchased a Mondeo item off UK ebay, the same as this one with a section of wiring (also the same supplier I think).

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FUEL-PUMP-INERTIA-CUT-OFF-SWITCH-KITCAR-WESTFIELD-RALLY-RACE-/322377392934?hash=item4b0f30a326:g:wbAAAOSw8w1X6-pM

 

These weren't fitted to the euro Fords that came to NZ apparently (?) so I couldn't get one locally. Haven't actually fitted it yet, but its high on the to-do list. The previous owner removed the original switch and installed a manual isolating switch in the glove-box I plan to mount the Mondeo item in its place so my beloved doesn't have to go hunting too far if it trips out for any reason.

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