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I will test the temp gauge , I have a digital thermometer and can use in boiling water and measure the movement on the dial. I assume the reading is from about 50C to 120C?

R

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 I fitted the Revotech fan when I did my rebuild in 2012 and it has recently decided to make intermittent contact when it first comes up to fan temp, I think the adjustable fan controller is on the blink when I put power to the relay the fan starts instantly but when the thermo switch tries to come on it makes some nasty clicking and clacking noises. They are not cheap but I think I will have to replace it.

 

Graham

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3 hours ago, Parkerscottages said:

I will test the temp gauge , I have a digital thermometer and can use in boiling water and measure the movement on the dial. I assume the reading is from about 50C to 120C?

R

Hi Richard,

You can take 2 or 3 temperatures, like 70,85 ,100 degr. C.

If you test on the bench: make sure you use the 10V connection that the voltage stabilizer delivers, otherwise your readings will be off.

If the gauge is still installed, that is no issue.

I marked 2 temperatures with a permanent marker on the gauge glass.

Waldi

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Bob, can you tell me what your Otter switch looks like and how you set it up?                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 

Edited by Graham Harris
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https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/cooling-system/cooling-fan-fittings/water-pipes-and-fan-switches.html

 

I fitted the stainless pipe (between bottom hose & W pump) which has a threaded boss to take the Otter switch.

I chose the 92° one, as I do not want the fan to come on under normal conditions, but it does come on well before boiling point.

I also have an override switch, which I use if I know I will be stuck in traffic for a while.

Bob.

 

P.S.  I retained the Revotech relay, switching it from either the Otter switch or the override switch

Edited by Lebro
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23 hours ago, Graham Harris said:

Thank you, Bob I didn't realise Moss offered an alternative to the Revotech.

Graham

Perhaps you could find one closer to home, although at AUS$48.00 they are not cheap.  The threaded boss it screws into comes form the radiator repair shop.  Then just a bit of TR owner skill for added value.

https://tridon.com.au/products/Tridon/35/483/switches-and-sensors/2014/thermo-fan-switches#3

Cheers

Peter W

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Update 

i have wired in a manual switch and that operates the fan which is good

i have also removed air from the system

If I now run the engine I get the following 

1. Hot thermostat housing 

2. Hot water for the heater hoses

3. Cold top hose and cold stainless pipe in which the Revotec sender sits is cold which is not good but the temp dial is recording hot

so is the thermostat the issue, it’s a new one from Moss

Any ideas?

thanks

richard

 

Edited by Parkerscottages
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Richard,

I hope you forgive me for asking:

how did you install the thermostat? The spring should be on the bottom, the flat side facing upwards. Hope that is the case? If not, the thermostat will not open.

I have a Moss thermostat too, tested it in hot water, it started opening at around 80degr.C

Waldi

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Yes, that is correct. I would take it out & check that it opens up in hot water above its operating temp (stamped on the base) around 82 - 88 °C

Bob

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36 minutes ago, Parkerscottages said:

The thermostat is vertical with the spring pointing into the body of the  housing facing towards the car

Is that correct?

Images from sales catalogues

For TR2-3-4 item 22

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/cooling-system/water-pumps-fittings/water-pump-thermostat-fittings-tr2-4a.html

For TR250/5/6 item 43

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID600026

 

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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The thermostat should have a small vent  hole, normally with a little rivet rattling in it to avoid it plugs up.

If the hole is not there, it is more difficult to remove the entrapped air towards the radiator (where it will stay as flow is downwards). If the stat is surrounded by semi-hot air, it will take longer to open.

But some stats are supplied without that hole, so I’m not sure if this is very important. It certainly helps.

If there is no hole, I would drill a 3 mm (1/8”) hole in the flat round part of the stat.

Waldi

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Hi,

air trapped in the system, in the cylinder head or in the thermostat housing is the common told story.

But it is all fiction, wishfull thinking of not existing problems. Don't care about that.

Ciao, Marco

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14 minutes ago, Z320 said:

Hi,

air trapped in the system, in the cylinder head or in the thermostat housing is the common told story.

But it is all fiction, wishfull thinking of not existing problems. Don't care about that.

Ciao, Marco

So what is the problem area then Marco ?

Mick Richards

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40 minutes ago, Parkerscottages said:

I have now tested the thermostat in hot water with a digital temp probe

At 82 C it opens about 2-3mm

is that enough

R

Yes starting to open at 82 is good if that is the number stamped on the thermostat centre wax capsule or somewhere else. That will mean the water is starting to circulate past the thermostat and into the radiator via top hose.

Does it fully open?  What temp is it fully open at?    Will probably be from 86-90 C.   ie spring compressed and valve open 1/2" or more.

Cheers

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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1 hour ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

So what is the problem area then Marco ?

Mick Richards

I don't know, but never air.

Air is always the easy explanation when there is no other idea.

Edited by Z320
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Update

the rad now gets ( to hot to rest my hand on) but the stainless pipe in to which the Revotec sits is not so hot that I cannot rest my hand

suggestions greatly fully received

thanks

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