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Richard,

at least you have flow now.

does your stat go open as Peter above indicates?

Waldi

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You will have cooling from the radiator, so if you enter with 80-85, you will come out quite a bit cooler. Normally, surfaces with  temperatures up to 60-65 C can be held with the hand.

So is there still an issue?

Waldi

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I think there is still an issue as the bottom prior is cool to the touch and as suggested the thermostat should be opening by 12mm and I only get 2-3 mm and so think that I need to get a replacement thermostat and try it again. Which means having to get new gaskets to effect a good deal.

i am now getting quite expert at removing the hoses!

hopefully I can get this sorted so that I can take the car to The Hague

Tks

R

 

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Hi Richard,

the stat opens gradually, the 2-3 mm at around 80C would be normal. As you heat it up further, it should open further, if not, your stat is faulty. 

I recommend to also buy an IR temperature gun, for better insight, they are cheap, like 20 pounds, and also buy some spare gaskets.

Last resort is to run without a thermostat.

Good luck,

Waldi

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Arghhhhh

having fitted the new thermostat (74C) and a new seal I have water dripping which makes me think that the pump housing after 53 years is slightly warped. So I think that if I also use some form of sealant then it could fix the issue, well enough to get me through the summer. Can anyone recommend what sealant to use?

thanks

R

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12 hours ago, Lebro said:

74°C seems very low to me - I use an 88° one 

Bob.

due to the workshop manual for TR4A is told 70 degr. C, I use 71 degr. C

Edited by Z320
71 degr, not 74 degf.
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Happy to report that with the Loctite sealant all is well on the leakage front, I have run the car up and using an infrared heat gun (£9.99 on Amazon) the fan kicks in at the correct point. However my temp dial reads max way before this so either the sender is faulty or the dial or both. I will start with a new sender. I will take the car out today for about 100 miles and see how it all goes before I risk taking it to the Netherlands next week.

regards

R

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Hi Richard,

good you found out it is a temperature reading issue, not a cooling issue.

Waldi

 

 

Edited by Waldi
Typo
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I think that it was a combination of failed thermostat and dodgy sender, the car ran well today and warm inside. Looking forward to our trip to Den Haag and a few Jenevers in the De Ouse Mol.

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21 hours ago, Parkerscottages said:

Happy to report that with the Loctite sealant all is well on the leakage front, I have run the car up and using an infrared heat gun (£9.99 on Amazon) the fan kicks in at the correct point. However my temp dial reads max way before this so either the sender is faulty or the dial or both. I will start with a new sender. I will take the car out today for about 100 miles and see how it all goes before I risk taking it to the Netherlands next week.

regards

R

One can not guarantee that the new (anything) sender will be calibrated to your gauge.

I had a non-working gauge the other day on my 4A. Fitted a new sender and it went to Max. The following day I refitted the supposed dead sender and it worked fine.

 

Roger

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  • 2 months later...

Sorry for not getting back, so many others thing get in the way. 

The addition of the sealant now seems to have fixed the drip on the housing and the temp seems to be under control. Having clocked up 500 miles the needle no longer goes into the red (its gets about 80% of the way which I will put down to the sender. As a benefit when it gets a bit chilly I can now use the heater.

Big Thank you to all who helped on this

Richard

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