Waldi Posted April 28, 2019 Report Share Posted April 28, 2019 Richard, at least you have flow now. does your stat go open as Peter above indicates? Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted April 28, 2019 Report Share Posted April 28, 2019 You will have cooling from the radiator, so if you enter with 80-85, you will come out quite a bit cooler. Normally, surfaces with temperatures up to 60-65 C can be held with the hand. So is there still an issue? Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Parkerscottages Posted April 28, 2019 Report Share Posted April 28, 2019 I think there is still an issue as the bottom prior is cool to the touch and as suggested the thermostat should be opening by 12mm and I only get 2-3 mm and so think that I need to get a replacement thermostat and try it again. Which means having to get new gaskets to effect a good deal. i am now getting quite expert at removing the hoses! hopefully I can get this sorted so that I can take the car to The Hague Tks R Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted April 28, 2019 Report Share Posted April 28, 2019 Hi Richard, the stat opens gradually, the 2-3 mm at around 80C would be normal. As you heat it up further, it should open further, if not, your stat is faulty. I recommend to also buy an IR temperature gun, for better insight, they are cheap, like 20 pounds, and also buy some spare gaskets. Last resort is to run without a thermostat. Good luck, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Parkerscottages Posted April 28, 2019 Report Share Posted April 28, 2019 Many thanks for all the input, I will update soon R Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Parkerscottages Posted April 30, 2019 Report Share Posted April 30, 2019 Arghhhhh having fitted the new thermostat (74C) and a new seal I have water dripping which makes me think that the pump housing after 53 years is slightly warped. So I think that if I also use some form of sealant then it could fix the issue, well enough to get me through the summer. Can anyone recommend what sealant to use? thanks R Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted April 30, 2019 Report Share Posted April 30, 2019 I have used this stuff successfully in the past for just that application. https://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductMobileDisplay?catalogId=10151&langId=-1&categoryId=255217&productId=173059&storeId=10001 Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 30, 2019 Report Share Posted April 30, 2019 If you do not want to disassemble to fit a new seal/gasket/goo etc then K seal has gathered a good reputation. Simply pour into the coolant. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted April 30, 2019 Report Share Posted April 30, 2019 A unseald waterpump housing while you are working on the thermostat housing....? I would look very close where the water comes from. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 1, 2019 Report Share Posted May 1, 2019 74°C seems very low to me - I use an 88° one Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted May 1, 2019 Report Share Posted May 1, 2019 (edited) 12 hours ago, Lebro said: 74°C seems very low to me - I use an 88° one Bob. due to the workshop manual for TR4A is told 70 degr. C, I use 71 degr. C Edited May 1, 2019 by Z320 71 degr, not 74 degf. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Parkerscottages Posted May 1, 2019 Report Share Posted May 1, 2019 Happy to report that with the Loctite sealant all is well on the leakage front, I have run the car up and using an infrared heat gun (£9.99 on Amazon) the fan kicks in at the correct point. However my temp dial reads max way before this so either the sender is faulty or the dial or both. I will start with a new sender. I will take the car out today for about 100 miles and see how it all goes before I risk taking it to the Netherlands next week. regards R Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted May 1, 2019 Report Share Posted May 1, 2019 (edited) Hi Richard, good you found out it is a temperature reading issue, not a cooling issue. Waldi Edited May 1, 2019 by Waldi Typo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Parkerscottages Posted May 1, 2019 Report Share Posted May 1, 2019 I think that it was a combination of failed thermostat and dodgy sender, the car ran well today and warm inside. Looking forward to our trip to Den Haag and a few Jenevers in the De Ouse Mol. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted May 1, 2019 Report Share Posted May 1, 2019 looks lovely, please drink one Jenever extra for me De oude mol, Den Haag Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 2, 2019 Report Share Posted May 2, 2019 21 hours ago, Parkerscottages said: Happy to report that with the Loctite sealant all is well on the leakage front, I have run the car up and using an infrared heat gun (£9.99 on Amazon) the fan kicks in at the correct point. However my temp dial reads max way before this so either the sender is faulty or the dial or both. I will start with a new sender. I will take the car out today for about 100 miles and see how it all goes before I risk taking it to the Netherlands next week. regards R One can not guarantee that the new (anything) sender will be calibrated to your gauge. I had a non-working gauge the other day on my 4A. Fitted a new sender and it went to Max. The following day I refitted the supposed dead sender and it worked fine. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Parkerscottages Posted July 4, 2019 Report Share Posted July 4, 2019 Sorry for not getting back, so many others thing get in the way. The addition of the sealant now seems to have fixed the drip on the housing and the temp seems to be under control. Having clocked up 500 miles the needle no longer goes into the red (its gets about 80% of the way which I will put down to the sender. As a benefit when it gets a bit chilly I can now use the heater. Big Thank you to all who helped on this Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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