Richard Young Posted November 27, 2016 Report Share Posted November 27, 2016 Probably been discussed before but I'm about to start rebuild front suspension on my TR6 restoration project. I am using the complete front suspension rebuild kit (Rimmers) which includes many new bolts/nuts etc.. I have grit blasted all the components (arms,wishbones etc) and powder coated them which look like new! My question is that I will need to re use some of the original nuts/bolts not included in the kit and I am asking what is the best way to protect these original nuts/bolts so that they do not prematurely corrode and at the same time look good for a reasonable amount of time. Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel Triumph Posted November 27, 2016 Report Share Posted November 27, 2016 My advice is to replace all the suspension nuts and bolts. If you choose to reuse some bolts, that's okay but all nyloc nuts must be replaced with new as the nylon locking ring is a 'once only' device. The plating of the nuts and bolts is such that some corrosion is inevitable. Coat them with copper grease before assembly and any future maintenance will be easier. Don't be tempted to use stainless for suspension or any safety critical application as tensile strength is likely to be lower. I hope this is useful - I don't mean to be teaching the previous generation to suck eggs! Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted November 27, 2016 Report Share Posted November 27, 2016 (edited) +1 on Nigel's comments. To be honest it's not worth using any of the old nuts/bolts as the time spent cleaning them is not time well invested, as usually the plating has corroded and they will rust easily. Look up you closest nut and bolt store and buy what you need new is my advice. Edited November 27, 2016 by boxofbits Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Young Posted November 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2016 Ok,I take that onboard both..thanks for your input. So if I order say from Rimmers,are these ready to use or do I need to protect them in some way.I just dont want the final result marred not too long down the road with bolts that have corroded way before the rest of the components.Not sure what most rebuilders do about this topic.Suppose I could coat them (brush) with a clear laquer.Maybe I'm being a bit too picky. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rhino_mac Posted November 27, 2016 Report Share Posted November 27, 2016 I wouldn't buy them from Rimmers. Buy them from a specialist and you'll pay a quarter of the price. I used Rimmer/Moss for the specs and then matched them up with an online retailer. Someone will recommend the best place I'm sure. You can normally buy packs of common nut/bolts/screws for very little money and they can be used all over the car during a rebuild. If they're the zinc plated ones, just use them as they come. They don't need coating but as mentioned above, a bit of copperslip will help it all come apart again in a few years. Remember to replace any split washers if they are specced. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rog1 Posted November 27, 2016 Report Share Posted November 27, 2016 Namrick are a very good source. Regards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted November 27, 2016 Report Share Posted November 27, 2016 I would agree Namric are a good quality supplier, and do imperial UNF/ UNC. They will post you out a decent mix of bolts/nuts/nylocs etc. They are in Portland Road, Hove and their number is 01273 736963. Regards Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilp3 Posted November 28, 2016 Report Share Posted November 28, 2016 Hello Richard, I have used Namrick and would agree with Nigel that it's best to replace with new. You might find it helpful to take a look at their website which shows you the entire range. You can also place your order on line which might also be convenient for you considering where they are based on the south Coast. www.namrick.co.uk Best regards, Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Young Posted November 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2016 Thanks everyone for your advice..have put an order in to Namrick. Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Gill Posted November 28, 2016 Report Share Posted November 28, 2016 +1 for Namrick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted December 15, 2016 Report Share Posted December 15, 2016 Just been pricing up nuts and bolts using the usual suspects and one of the specialist suppliers listed here and there's so little in it not to bother. The only thing is our usual suspects don't know how to measure a bolt, or in a couple of cases the difference between a set screw and a bolt. Either that or they've all been manufactured incorrectly! Nuts on the other hand better if buying in multiples of 10. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Young Posted December 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2016 Hi Dave....got them from Namrick..speedy delivery too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 15, 2016 Report Share Posted December 15, 2016 Hi Dave, you've been spoit by playing with aircraft for too long. I've had a number chats with the Moss counter staff. Usually their eyes glazed over. To explain, in the Moss cat they explain that a bolt has a plain shank under the head - spot on. As for length - the Cat says from under the head to the end of the thread. So a three inch bolt may or may not have a 2" shank. If you are bolting up layers of metal that total 2" you need to know the shank length so it can be torqued down properly. Any old bolt will not do. Also should the threaded section be in an area where the layers need to be held correctly then you will find the threaded section has a smaller diameter - it will be slack. Auto industry bolt sizes are whacky and then some Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted December 15, 2016 Report Share Posted December 15, 2016 (edited) Glad I'm not the only one having issues! Even the chap at Namrick wasn't too sure! So, I'm going to order some of what I think will be the correct length, that is the working length with the correct amount of thread to accommodate a washer, shim washer and split pin. What got me started was looking at new trunnion bolt. Edited December 15, 2016 by daven Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 15, 2016 Report Share Posted December 15, 2016 Hi Dave, I can't for a moment think that the supplied pivot bolt http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/bolt-pivot-trunnion-to-lower-wishbone-139835.html?assoc=118570 would be the 'proper' correct length. But it works. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted December 15, 2016 Report Share Posted December 15, 2016 yep that's the one that got me started! Half of the thread inside the bushings is not right from a mechanical point of view,. I'll have a hunt round for a suitable NAS1108-xxD bolt. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 Glad I'm not the only one having issues! Even the chap at Namrick wasn't too sure! So, I'm going to order some of what I think will be the correct length, that is the working length with the correct amount of thread to accommodate a washer, shim washer and split pin. What got me started was looking at new trunnion bolt. I'm not sure about Triumph but the BMC parts manual quotes a part number something like xx0405Z, the 04 being 4X 16", and the 05 being the number of 16ths in length, with Z for zinc. So it was a 1/4" x 5/16". Might be worth seeing if there is s similar bolt code reference in your Triumph manual, as a bolt even 1/8" to long can cause a problem. Regards Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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