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TR6 Front Suspension


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When my TR6 is parked several people have remarked that the front wheels have a pronounce amount of camber, in that the track is wide on the road than at the top of the tyre. I have wondered if the Top Fulcrum Pin (part No. 200659) can be set the wrong way round. I have not taken them off yet but they appear to be off set in relation to the mounting holes. The manual doesn't suggest one way or the other.

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When my TR6 is parked several people have remarked that the front wheels have a pronounce amount of camber, in that the track is wide on the road than at the top of the tyre. I have wondered if the Top Fulcrum Pin (part No. 200659) can be set the wrong way round. I have not taken them off yet but they appear to be off set in relation to the mounting holes. The manual doesn't suggest one way or the other.

the correct way to fit the top unit holding the wishbones is to have the convex area towards the shock absorber.

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When my TR6 is parked several people have remarked that the front wheels have a pronounce amount of camber, in that the track is wide on the road than at the top of the tyre. I have wondered if the Top Fulcrum Pin (part No. 200659) can be set the wrong way round. I have not taken them off yet but they appear to be off set in relation to the mounting holes. The manual doesn't suggest one way or the other.

Hi Ian, Welcome to the forum.

As Pete says. Also the negative camber - which is what youve got - can be reduced by removing shims from the lower wishbone/chassis location. However I find about 1 to 1.5 negative improves the handling by reducing understeer without compromisng straight line stability. If a previous owner has fitted shorter springs that can increase negative camber too.

Peter

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Thanks very much for your advice on this one. I have now begun to strip down the front suspension with the intention of replacing all the rubber bushes with poly's and I will ensure the top fulcrum is the correct way round. I have discovered that one of the brake discs has a deep score on the inside, so it looks as though a stone or gravel has been trapped either in the stoneguard or the brake pad. Thanks bye for now Ian.

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Thanks very much for your advice on this one. I have now begun to strip down the front suspension with the intention of replacing all the rubber bushes with poly's and I will ensure the top fulcrum is the correct way round. I have discovered that one of the brake discs has a deep score on the inside, so it looks as though a stone or gravel has been trapped either in the stoneguard or the brake pad. Thanks bye for now Ian.

Disc groove could be the result of lock stops missing so the disc has touched something in the suspension on full lock.

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Hi ?,

 

years ago I measured the offset of the falcrum pin, it is 2,25 mm, see here #11.

http://tr-freun.de/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=12231

 

The groove can be caused by missing part #54

or by the head of bolt #52 through the trunion sticked the wrong way,

head of the bolt must be in rear direktion, nut #58 in front direction.

http://tr-freun.de/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=92&t=13246

 

Ciao Marco

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Thanks Marco,

 

I've tried many fixes for the disk groove problem, including specially made components for #54. I've just checked bolts #52 and mine are definitely in with the bolt heads to the front, as shown in the Brown Book. Did swapping the bolts around solve someone's disk groove problem? The parts diagram you attached appears to show the heads to the front as in the Brown Book.

Edited by Mike C
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Hi Mike,

 

I´ve been told this several times at the forum of the german TR-friends by specialists without further explanation - but I realised this:

 

With the steering wheel on maximum the inner wheel is more angled then to outer wheel - to run a smaller circle.

This is necessary to reduce abrasion of the tyres, the angle is dokumented in the TR4A workshop manual with 20° outer wheel, 21,5° inner wheel.

So the brake disc comes the head of the bolt closer "behind" on the inner wheel than "in front" of the outer wheel.

 

Additional my bolts heads are 3/8" high, my slotted nuts are 1/2" high.

So it can be usefull to have the head of the bolt behind and use no additional small washer beneath.

 

In fact on my TR4A the bolts are also sticked with the head in front - without any problem.

So this can help someone with other problems like a too small or slacken #54.

 

Ciao Marco

 

See / looking forward what Ian reports

Edited by Z320
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