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Door glass lower channel replacement


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Hi Guys,

 

I need to replace door glass as top has been chipped. I have a good pair of replacement door glass but the lower channel on the one I want to use is not seated properly and had been secured with some sort of mastic! Its also a bit corroded.

 

I would like to remove the good channel from my bad glass an refit to the replacement. However, I did this on a previous classic that I owned and if i remember I had difficlty in getting the channel to fit tightly onto the glass. If its not tight no doubt it will slip off the glass in use :(

 

So has any body any advice.

 

Thanks

Rich

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Ther is a rubber striop known as glazing rubber that is folded about the glass edge then pushed into the channel The use of a water based lubricant is adviseable so it will ease the firtment and will wash off after installation.

Glazing rubber will come from your local screen company or the TR specialists or a Land Rover spares company.

 

Item 63 here http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/body-chassis/doors-fittings/doors-fittings.html

 

Peter W

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Hi Rich

 

I've just done this on a 5 that I'm re-building and this is what I did:-

Take the old glass out - Mark the position of the channel with a felt tip marker and make a note of the measurements so that you can re-fit in the same position later.

Hold upright on a bench, with the metal channel at the bottom and gently tap off the metal channel using with a flat screwdriver and mallet.

Check that the new glass is the same size as your old one. Some are not..

I then re-furbed the metal channels, with a drill/wire wheel attachments. Taking care not to distort or bend the channels when holding them in the vice etc.and re-paint - I used etch primer 1st

As Peter has said above, get the glazing rubber. I got mine from TR shop, but it's the same as Moss.

Cut the lengths to fit - the straight part only on the bottom of the glass. Avoid the curved ends.

I then laid the new glass flat on clean surface with the cut rubber half way on the end so that you can evenly fold it over at the bottom.

Then I used industrial super glue on each side and worked bit by bit along the glass, pressing and holding the rubber tightly into place. Then the same the other side.

Wipe off any residue with glue remover.

Then turn the glass upside down on it's top edge and position the metal channel in the right place on top of the rubber.

Then just tap into place using a heavy'ish mallet. It's an interference fit, so it will go. Just do it carefully, but firmly. You should end up with a very nice/tight fit.

 

Others might do this differently, but this worked for me.

 

Hope that helps

best Bill

Edited by Bill Bourne
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I made these channels a while ago, the best method I found, was to buy new channel, Land rover channel is fine .

 

remove the top and bottom brackets, refit them using NR6 rivets, on the top bracket these go in from the inner channel out, and then peen over.

 

I never had a channel returned and they fitted properly. If your top plastic guides are buggered I may be able to find you some decent ones.

 

These are so easily cracked though if care isn't taken when fitting the channel into the top bracket.

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Hi Rich

 

I've just done this on a 5 that I'm re-building and this is what I did:-

Take the old glass out - Mark the position of the channel with a felt tip marker and make a note of the measurements so that you can re-fit in the same position later.

Hold upright on a bench, with the metal channel at the bottom and gently tap off the metal channel using with a flat screwdriver and mallet.

Check that the new glass is the same size as your old one. Some are not..

I then re-furbed the metal channels, with a drill/wire wheel attachments. Taking care not to distort or bend the channels when holding them in the vice etc.and re-paint - I used etch primer 1st

As Peter has said above, get the glazing rubber. I got mine from TR shop, but it's the same as Moss.

Cut the lengths to fit - the straight part only on the bottom of the glass. Avoid the curved ends.

I then laid the new glass flat on clean surface with the cut rubber half way on the end so that you can evenly fold it over at the bottom.

Then I used industrial super glue on each side and worked bit by bit along the glass, pressing and holding the rubber tightly into place. Then the same the other side.

Wipe off any residue with glue remover.

Then turn the glass upside down on it's top edge and position the metal channel in the right place on top of the rubber.

Then just tap into place using a heavy'ish mallet. It's an interference fit, so it will go. Just do it carefully, but firmly. You should end up with a very nice/tight fit.

 

Others might do this differently, but this worked for me.

 

Hope that helps

best Bill

Be aware that some Superglues will shatter the glass.

Stuart.

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I recently replaced the door glass and glazing. On this side of the pond, it appears Moss has the best glazing material...requiring no glue. Other vendors glazing was either to hard or not thick enough to hold glass in.

 

I did exactly as in post #5 below, and both windows went in perfectly. Careful tapping with mallet and warming of glazing strip made it go smoothly.

 

 

http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php/forum/21-body-trim-a-accessories/256862-Door-window-glass-attachment-to-channel#389318

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Really ?

Yep, thats why when replacing stick on windscreen mirrors they always say use their supplied pad.

Stuart.

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Yep, thats why when replacing stick on windscreen mirrors they always say use their supplied pad.

Stuart.

Well hopefully I've used the correct type of super glue which was "Everbuild CYN20"

happy birthday for yesterday BTW - missed it...

best Bill/Fiona

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Hi Guys,

Thanks for comments.

I have completed refitting the channel to my replacement glass. This was achieved by using a new rubber from Moss, putting a bead of black TIGER SEAL into the inside the channel, folding the rubber into a U shape and part fitting into the channel. Then another bead of TIGER SEAL to the inside of the rubber and pushing it onto the glass.

Rather and beat it on with a rubber hammer, I use 2 sash cramps, with wood blocks protecting the top of the glass, and pulled the channel fully onto the glass.

This has worked very well and the TIGER SEal really bonds to the rubber and glass. I know this works because I didn't realise that the first glass that I used had a tint to it, blue?, so I had to remove the channel and start again with a clear glass. Wasn't easy to get it off after only 1 day!

Anybody want a blue tinted window glass?

Cheers

Rich

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