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Interesting pics of a 4pot waterpump shaft


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I post it here because it has to do with the 4pot engine.

 

Yesterday afternoon, I attended the annual Dutch Triumph Parts Day. In short, there was only one thing that drew my attention. A guy with a few waterpumps on display.

 

He had a few pumps dismantled for us to realise how the quality of the shaft is... corroded etc. The guy produces s/steel shafts as a replacement for the iffy quality shafts.

 

A few pics to show what I mean:

 

 

31134063-FFE2-49A0-B1D7-42DB134FEE9F_zps

 

468EFC63-78D7-4B78-88E2-10D10D855DE0_zps

 

BF1F124C-3EBC-4B41-81DA-9F10F2465572_zps

 

Menno

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I have one of his rebuilt water pumps with the s/s shaft and after seeing the pictures i have made a good choice.

 

Sorry to hear about the spares day.

  • Owners are buying on line,
  • There are less basket cases around
  • TRs are not used as the main car
  • Most are in show condition
  • Some never even get wet.

Owning an old TR3 is not like it used to be. But I still enjoy it as a preoccupation and hobby.

 

Richard &H.

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I have one of his rebuilt water pumps with the s/s shaft and after seeing the pictures i have made a good choice.

 

Sorry to hear about the spares day.

  • Owners are buying on line,
  • There are less basket cases around
  • TRs are not used as the main car
  • Most are in show condition
  • Some never even get wet.
Owning an old TR3 is not like it used to be. But I still enjoy it as a preoccupation and hobby.

 

Richard &H.

 

Good observation about the Parts Day!

 

Menno

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I had also some problems with the waterpumps. But is a s/steel shaft the best choice ?

The corrosion is after many many years, and will not affect the functionality of the pump. I never see one break at this point! And don't causes leakages.

One off the problems that causes damage on the keyway, is the nut, that holding down the pulley and is loose or gone.

Another problem is that the bold of the shaft is to small. With use of the original big fan belt, the load can be somewhat heavy, and can break down the bold. The pulley can come loose and you get the problem of damages on the keyway.

 

S/steel have some disadvantages, under load, material stresses and the screw-tread can break quicker,

 

The best way is to produce (on a late) a shaft from normal steel with the bigger bolt, with no keyway but 2 crews between shaft and pulley.

So the torque is divided.

Another improvement is setup the impellor with smaler clearance, between impellor to the body waterpump. You get a higher water flow when driving with lower rpm. So a cooler engine in traffic.

 

I had all this problems with my Triumph TR2, i drive this car with a Judson supercharger, with drive belt on the waterpump pulley, that causes extra load on the water pump.

Now it is some years bullet proof, and also cooling is improved.

Edited by Kutscher
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If the car is run year round with good quality 50/50 ethylene glycol/water mix with corrosion inhibitor package and this mix is changed at max two yearly intervals shouldn't this protect the water pump shaft? Out of interest at the last change I put some old nails in both the two-year old anti freeze mix I drained from my car and some of the fresh mix and after three months the nails were still rust free.

 

Tim

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Hi Tim,

 

The part of the shaft that always is corroded is not in the area that turns in the cooling liquid. This you can see in the drawing pictures of the water pump.

The part that is corroded is the part that runs free in air. But when the mechanical seal is leaking, than this shaft will run in the cooling liquid, and if it is water, it will corrode.

Edited by Kutscher
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