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Dolomite Sprint engine in TR4?


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I have a 1962 TR4, which is in almost standard form that I have owned for nearly 18 months. This winter I am going to have a number of items uprated / changed to increase reliability and performance.

 

I have found searching the forum and reading Roger Williams book ‘How to improve TR2-4A’ very useful.

 

Now to the question at hand, having looked at different options for more performance, would a swap to the Dolomite Sprint engine be feasible and has anyone done it before?

 

I have seen a thread on using a Dolomite gearbox in a TR6, so I’m guessing that using a TR4 gearbox with overdrive on a Dolomite engine is not too much of a problem?

 

I know that I could get good performance out of the standard TR4 engine, but that does come at considerable cost so I have been looking at the alternatives and this option so far looks interesting.

 

 

Thanks

 

Chris

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IMO the sprint engine would not be as reliable as the original...

 

And I'd guess it would destroy a lot of collectibility/resale value, too.

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Not a simple 'drop it in and turn the key' job, I think. Best guess is that the motor mounts have to be replaced/repositioned and that means serious welding to the chassis and... what Don says: destroying a lot of resale value. Keeping the original engine with the car has no use when you can't drop it in as a result of the changed position of the mounts.

 

In short, don't do it. Instead, get an old Dolly Sprint and drop that engine in for lots of fun next to the TR.

 

Menno

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Thanks for the replies.

 

I do understand what you are saying regarding collectability/resale, which was one of my main concerns. So I guess you have to pay one way or another for more performance. I will be getting some detailed quotes for work on the original engine soon.

 

Chris

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Depending on what your expecting to do with it and the current condition of the engine and if you can do a lot of it yourself then you could get it to go pretty well without too much expense and as already stated retain its original format.

Stuart.

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Hi Chris and welcome to the forum.

 

Don't want to seem patronising but have you been to any local groups to ask owners about their cars? (Stoke or Red Rose presumably), maybe even to get a drive? I only ask because if you intend to spend a bit on the engine it's worth finding out exactly what you want and the characteristics that you want to end up with. They may also be able to offer advice regarding who to ask about doing the work.

 

I happen to love the torque of the standard engine and don't often use high revs, some of the more aggressive cams will lose that tractability and once the engine's built it's more expense to go back.

 

I'm in Biddulph so not far away...

 

 

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If the engine is in good sound standard condition then a Moss blower kit can be fitted in a day or so's work.

Its worth comparing cost with conventional tuning parts and labour. And it makes no irrereversible changes.

Peter

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Hi Malcolm,

 

Yes I go to the Stoke group, I have had other TRs before going back 20 plus years with a big gap before the TR4 last year. I have a fair idea of what I want, I'm considering the ways to get it really at the moment.

 

 

Hi Peter,

 

I attended your supercharging talk at IWE 15 and have read your blog on the subject with interest.

 

 

Thanks

 

Chris

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Hi Malcolm,

 

Yes I go to the Stoke group, I have had other TRs before going back 20 plus years with a big gap before the TR4 last year. I have a fair idea of what I want, I'm considering the ways to get it really at the moment.

 

 

Hi Peter,

 

I attended your supercharging talk at IWE 15 and have read your blog on the subject with interest.

 

 

Thanks

 

Chris

Hi Chris, Hope it helped ! With a blower your TR would storm up the hills around Congleton, no waiting for the rpm to build to bring the cam on song. Peter

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Has anyone actually adapted the Moss kit for a RHD 4 or 4A yet?

Dont know.

The steering column might or might not clear the alternator, seen in last photo on Moss site:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=112398

The vac canister under the blower could be removed and the bypass not used, probably better for the blower too.

SU can be rotated/tilted, with new mounting block to blower if it hits the firewall. Remote air filter better too, for cold air. HS6 might fit better, the separate f.c gives more flexibility.

 

Peter

Edited by Peter Cobbold
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