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Full specification for the paint shop.


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About 10 years ago I spent a lot of money on the boot lid. It was lead filled and painted. Now there are two mole hills, one at each edge about 10mm high. I bought another lid through the forum.

 

This time I am going to get the top job. I have now managed to get back to bare metal on my raised hinge boot lid. I now understand why paint shops charge a lot.

 

I spent Saturday afternoon and most of Sunday with the wet and dry. My right thumb has a sore patch from pushing the block. Also after a few hours this does get very repetitive. At last it was finished and I polished it with an 80 sand flap wheel. There is no damp or rust waiting to break out.

 

Now I need a proper spec to give to a paint shop so that I can be sure that the new paint will stick, shine and have no ripples or marks. I used to judge the Concours at the IWE and the major difference between the entries was the paint work. Under the sodium lighting all sorts of defects could be spotted.

 

I am sure that there is someone here who knows how many coats, preparation, primer, undercoat, finish etc. We will not be using lacquer and my choice of paint is ICI two pack. I have the reference and the rest of the car is painted with this paint. But most of the panels are not perfect. I am determined to have the boot lid as good as possible and need a stage by stage spec. to give to the paint shop.

 

Currently we have bare metal finished in rustproofer, Hammerite Kurust, which seems to have sealed themetal immediately.

 

Please can someone give me a step by step guide for the best finish.

 

Thanks Richard & H.

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I'm sorry but that statement is just not true. If prepared, painted and polished correctly there are very very few people who would know the difference between many different types of finish. I have been painting cars as my profession for around 30 years, stating with classic car restoration through too repairing modern accident damaged cars, with possibly the only exception being ultra high solid clear coat just about any type of finish can be acheived. 2K paints are a progression from what was available at the time (please also bear in mind that 2K paints where used on certain car production lines from the late sixties, along with many other types such as acrylic, polyester etc) We are happy to carry out upgrades to our cars in other areas, why would we not want it to be done on the part that requires the most protection.

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Thanks Nick.

 

I am not keen on cellulose and would welcome any suggestions to replace 2 pack.

 

Currently we are in bare metal and I need some help with primer, undercoat, and top coat as in house painting.

 

You have all the experience and I would be grateful for some guidelines

 

Richard & H

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2K is brilliant when applied and polished correctly, however....

 

Water base with a clear over the top is marvellous

 

:)

 

Tom

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I had the boot lid, wing, inside of boot and door shuts on my TR4a repainted in code 19 in 2K earlier in the year. The rest was done in 1994 in cellulose, but the match is perfect with a celly like finish ( they usually buff any uneveness out).

 

If you are having the boot lid done, don't worry about any prep, just leave it to the bodyshop. Generally they don't like your own fillers or primer on it as they don't know how it will react to their paints/ stoppers etc. Just leave it bare metal.

 

Kevin

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Thanks Nick.

 

I am not keen on cellulose and would welcome any suggestions to replace 2 pack.

 

Currently we are in bare metal and I need some help with primer, undercoat, and top coat as in house painting.

 

You have all the experience and I would be grateful for some guidelines

 

Richard & H

Hi Richard,

 

As Kevin said most body shops will want to use their own primers etc to ensure the system remains compatible , I,m not familiar with the products you have mentioned and would want to remove them, however they will protect it until it is ready to go to the bodyshop.

 

As a guide to the process , once the panel has been cleaned and prepared it will need to be treated with an etch primer, followed by 2k primer, this I would then block with 180 grit ( on a long block) to eliminate any ripples that may have been left from the repairs. It would then get primed again, flatted and prepared for top coat. Then flat/polish etc.

This is obviously only a brief outline but provided you find a bodyshop , ideally one that is used to working on older cars then they will know the full process.

 

Hope that helps

 

Nick

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I painted my 4A as per this link http://www.torquecars.com/styling/spray-painting.php

It turned out really well. Even if I do say so myself. IMHO 2K solid colour looks much better on older vehicles than 2K with clear lacquer. The flatting of each coat with a black guide coat ensure all imperfections were removed before the next coat was applied.

Alan.

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If the paint shop know their job . . . . . then all they need to know is what end result you require . . . . . .

 

Try teaching them to suck eggs . . . . . and they'll like as not tell you where to go, and take the boot with you . . . . .

 

Cheers

 

Alec

No that's the big question ' if the paint shop knows their job'

 

But Alex is correct and as I said in my previous post, provided you can find a bodyshop, ideally one that has been recommended they will be fully aware of the correct process.

 

Nick

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If the paint shop know their job . . . . . then all they need to know is what end result you require . . . . . .

 

Try teaching them to suck eggs . . . . . and they'll like as not tell you where to go, and take the boot with you . . . . .

 

Cheers

 

Alec

I just need to know the best procedure so that I can explain what I am expecting and supply them with a specification so that they can price the work accordingly. This is a sensible approach and will avoid any problems when the job is finished.

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Hi Richard

 

If this helps. I've just had a TR5 body shell painted with these guys in 2 pack. Very helpful, good attitude and did a very good paint job. They also hire out their paint booth.

I'm sure you will get some sound advice and an outline of options.

 

Contact:- Gavin

 

http://www.thepaintshoppros.co.uk/

 

best Bill

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This is a sensible approach and will avoid any problems when the job is finished.

I'd have thought the opposite Richard. Any established bodyshop will have experience and probably training in the use of one supplier's paint system. If the experts on this forum were to recommend the use of a different system, would you expect the bodyshop to follow their experience, or something you'd read on the forum?

If you have a bodyshop in mind, why not ask them what they suggest?

 

Pete

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Hi Pete,

 

Before reading some of the links and talking to two professionals i was not aware of the amount of sanding and re-coating used in a modern paint shop to get the best finish. I had never heard of a black undercoat.

 

I now have a new paint shop in mind and will be taking the lid down there on Monday. If it works out they will get the door and rear panel over the winter. I will follow their advice.

 

Thanks for all the advice on here.

 

Richard & H

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