Simon B Posted October 10, 2016 Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 I’ve been a member of the Register for around six years now and though having read many threads on here this is my first post on the Forum so hi fellow TRers. I’m just about to start the process of removing the body from my TR6 chassis to carry out a repair to the diff mounting points, this will also give me the chance to assess the condition rest of the chassis. Does anyone have advice/sketches for a frame and process for lifting it? The works going to be carried out in a home garage so not blessed with space and will need to be able to roll the chassis out to work on it?. Any advice will be greatly received.. Many thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted October 10, 2016 Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 Removing the body is pretty straightforward. Be sure to brace the door openings or leave the doors in place. http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-27/TR6-27.html You'll need to clean the frame to inspect it properly. http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-28/TR6-28.html There are common trouble spots in TR6 frames. Look closely n these areas. http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-29/TR6-29.html Best o luck with the project! Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted October 10, 2016 Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 Hi Simon, welcome to the forum. I nailed together a cross-braced frame of 4x2 inside a single garage and lifted the body with a rope block and tackle on the roll cage and another in front of the firewall. It helps when lifting the body that all the bolts are removed . I could roll chassis underneath easily, despite the flat ceiling, normal for a built-in garage. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 10, 2016 Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 Hi Simon, welcome to the forum. Where abouts are you. Have you spoken to your local group. I made a gantry on wheels. Imagine 4 x 3" square fence posts standing vertically, fore/aft of the doors. Two off either side of the car. Have a 3" square fence post linking the front two vertical posts and a similar beam at the back. Do the same down the length of the car. It will all need a few bracing struts to stiffen it up. Fit a 4" castor under each fence post. I used two lengths of scaffold pole across the front and rear of the cage to use as hand cranks to lift the body on rope. With this you can raise/lower the body. Move the body about Move the chassis under the body. As mentioned above - you must brace the gaps between the doors. Sadly I have no pics of the contraption. Roger . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lockley210 Posted October 10, 2016 Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 Hi This method worked for me http://i952.photobucket.com/albums/ae7/mark50lockley/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_6691_zpspemhginp.jpg~original Telescopic steel posts supported from the floor joists above, this enabled the chassis to be wheeled out and the support leg dropped down. The pivots allowed the body to be rotated. Cheers Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted October 10, 2016 Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 The body can be removed in many ways, I have just lifted mine off using 4 X 1' pieces of mild steel angle iron. the centre piece is used to lift the body, all these are only bolted in, and are easily removable. The only 2 holes I drilled in the body were at the A post Ensure your lifting equipment is UP to the job. The angle is easily capable of the stresses involved. A single centre lift did it for me, for you can easily swing the whole thing around as needed. BE careful and if at all unsure don't proceed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 Also documented my body lift a few years ago. http://72tr6.blogspot.co.uk/ Used bottle jacks and concrete blocks.. Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Simon B Posted October 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 Thanks for all your replies, appreciate you taking time out to share your experiences. Time permitting, I'm hoping to have something rigged up by the weekend. I've started the process of stripping and storing body parts and should be in shape to unbolt within the next couple of evenings. We'll have to see if we can start countdown to lift-off by the end of the week.Once it's off I can see what else needs doing so will either be looking for someone locally (Glos/Bristol) to repair and strengthen (diff mounts) or maybe replacement depending on what I find. Will keep you posted. ...and Roger, I'm a member of Glavon, Eric M (and group) helpful as always. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Simon B Posted October 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 Well, it's off!. Hoping to have the engine/g-box out next weekend, suspension and pipework the following week then to find a competent welder before shot blasting and powder coating Thanks again for your input. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted October 17, 2016 Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 (edited) I did gritblast my chassis before welding, but not apply primer at that stage. This enables better repair and also helps to find corrosion and fatigue cracks. After all inspection and repairs is was blasted again and then powder coated. Edited October 17, 2016 by Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elclem1 Posted October 17, 2016 Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 Steady on the blasting front. Too much and your chassis will become flexible that's when the fun starts. ,! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sapphire72 Posted October 18, 2016 Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 20161015_164721.jpg Simon, that's very nice. Concrete blocks- any masonry- are not designed to take any pressure. It can suddenly & unexpectedly crumble and collapse. Wood is safe, your concrete blocks are not. There may not be much you can do at this point, be attentive to any cracking of a block. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sapphire72 Posted October 18, 2016 Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 (edited) Simon, that's very nice. Concrete blocks are not designed to hold pressure. They can suddenly and unexpectedly crumble/collapse. Wood or steel can be trusted, masonry can not be trusted. Be attentive to any cracks that may form. Edited October 18, 2016 by Sapphire72 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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