McMuttley Posted October 5, 2016 Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 Apologies for the deluge of pre-sale inquiries ! but I have given myself friday off to address final niggly bits. You may recall that after fitting the new dzus and bonnet stop buffer thingamys to the front to deal with the rattle, the rearward part of the forward part (still with me) of the bonnet hinge is now rubbing on the bulkhead when closed. I have bought gasket hinges (602223A) for the rear part of the hinge (4 - to double up) to raise the hinge slightly it and I now realise why, even to a Yorkie, they were so cheap; they are just very thin pieces of pressed paper/card - their thinness presumably being exaggerated by their dissolvability Q1 - is there any reason why I shouldn't just treat these flimsy paper things as templates and make something slightly thicker out of say a thin rubber sheet ? (like I did for the door mirror baseplates) Q2 - is there any recommended techniques for inserting said gaskets, e.g., should the bonnet dzus be loose or tight during the process and should I undo the bulkhead hinge bolts on one side and replace - then do the other ? ( note that as Olde Great Valuey has v precise panel gaps all round, I don't have much capacity for getting it wrong !) Grateful as ever. ps, i would take the opportunity to raise the rear hinge to create airflow as has been suggested, but (i) I wouldn't want to mislead the buyer into thinking my engine is hot - god forbid; but more importantly, (ii) until I replace the rocker cover / gasket next week, the driving experience might feel like a being shot down ME109 pilot (other sides to a war are available) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted October 5, 2016 Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 (edited) Q1 - No Q2 - one at a time to stop any unwanted realignment. I would use some packers around the bonnet to wing and bonnet to front apron joints to stop the bugger moving whilst you lift the scuttle part of the hinge to insert the new gasket(s). Also measure the rear gap by the hinge before you start on each side and try to make it the same when the hing goes back It will be a fiddle! Edited October 5, 2016 by iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted October 5, 2016 Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 Austin, I would fit the hinges (with gaskets) first to get the best panel fit. then when all tight, adjust the position of the dzus fasteners on the inner wing to line up precisely with the fasteners in the bonnet. this is most easily acheaved with the bonnet fasteners out, then you can sight through the holes to see if the wire is central. You probably can't remove the bonnet fasteners, so it would have to trial & error ! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted October 5, 2016 Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 Austin, I reckon it would be best to cut suitable gaskets from proper substantial gasket paper, you could then use two or more if necessary to lift the hinge just the right amount. I am not a Yorkshireman but I cut gaskets for the 4A boot hinges from an old inner tube and it was not a success, When the hinges were tightened down the rubber gaskets were far too soft and just squeezed out around the base of the hinge and looked very unsightly, I swapped them for proper gaskets made as above. Good luck with the sale. (I first typed this as ale which, on reflection, would have been just as appropriate Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted October 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 Hi Bob, not sure I under stand ? I've got the front bonnet levelled (aligned may be a better phrase) with both the wings and front apron by using the packers so that it doesn't pull down too far and the bonnet buffers to hold it there - its just the net result is the rear hinge now rubs as it is pulled down a tine fraction than further before - I suspect the bonnet always sat a little high at the front to avoid this - which possibly explains why the PO used what looks like cut tyre wall to create quite tall packers ! I was hoping to leave the front as now set and just raise the rear hinge a fraction Thanks Tim, note your point, a bonnet is probably heaver than a wing mirror. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted October 5, 2016 Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 It sounds to me that your bonnet is too close to the bulkhead, & needs to slide forward a bit. this would mean the dzus fasteners on the inner wings would also need to move forward. This assumes you have got room to do this before hitting the front apron. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted October 6, 2016 Report Share Posted October 6, 2016 If you need to re-adjust your Dzuss fasteners, a bit of blue tack helps. Stick a thin layer on top of the inner wing fitting and lower the bonnet on to it. Adjust as necessary. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted October 6, 2016 Report Share Posted October 6, 2016 Austin If you need extra plastic packers, go to your nearest hobby shop and buy sheets of different thicknesses of PLASTICARD. I use all thicknesses from 10 thou to 80 thou, mark out the hinge profile and drill them first before you cut round the shape. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted October 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2016 the local hobby shop says 'ADULTS ONLY'. they definately do rubber, not sure about plasticard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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