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Hood Frame / Stick Cover / Tonneau Resting Place


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Just been sizing up the opposition.

 

There is an incredibly cheap ( :ph34r:) 3a for sale on C&C.

 

http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C795489

 

That aside, the position of the stick cover / tonneau intrigued me.

 

'Mine' (could be yours) lays quite flat, the hood frame below rather than above and behind the seat back.

 

Have I been doing it wrong, is this how it is meant to be done? Could this be some sort of 'spoiler' ??

 

 

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people do that with their hoods :o have they no shame ? have they no tonneau, have they no stick cover (I have them all, buy mine instead)

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Hi McMuttley.

 

Just as a matter of interest, what do you reckon the car should be worth? Mine is of similar spec and condition (no overdrive). Would be pleased to hear your thoughts.

 

Cheers

 

John

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John, TBH - no idea, what it sells for I suppose !

 

Having studied C&C for comparables, taken out the mad £37k asking prices for some non-history cars, factored dealers prices v's private the range for cars that on the face of it look similar - is a whopping £23-32, but they are asking prices not sale prices - sadly we rarely know what they actually go for, nor what their true condition is.

 

In my view auction prices are always lower than private sale for anything that isn't rare or an 'Amelia Island special' as they are a buyers (with risk) environment, so inevitably bids on day-to-day cars with no works history will be cautious. So I won't be going to auction. Nor am I in a hurry.

 

Of course if a TR anorak turned up to view, they would pick a hundred imperfections and seek to knock you down (even if they had no intention of creating a concours car) - so I suspect the higher prices are achieved selling to non-TRanoraks (like me!)

 

Olde Shiney sold at auction in Jan 13 so that price is known and was flipped to me 6 months later, so inevitably I paid a little more than that. The agreed value on the insurance was set two years ago at £25, but I think that has no meaning in terms of what sale price might be achieved.

 

I am aware that the £18k spent on it since will assist in a sale as the buyer will know with some certainty that those issues have been dealt with, but that £18k doesn't have a commensurate increase in selling price - but I put that down to the fact that in any hobby you spend money you don't get back. Also, for example, there are things such as steering wheel, seats etc that added to my usage, but don't nesc' add value to a particular buyer (thats why I've get the originals just in case).

 

I guess every pretty ordinary classic car has its relative ceiling unless its really special - or its buyer is a special case !!!!

 

Since I bought the 3A three years ago, I haven't really noticed how priced have changed, whilst 4's, for example, seem to have increased 20% ???? Arguably a 3 is a far more limited market because it is less practical, BUT MORE FUN - so a case of waiting for the perfect buyer !

 

I think before I advertise it on the AMOC and BDC websites, I will bring it into work and park it next door but one outside Goldman Sachs - and wait from them to throw their bonuses at me :ph34r:

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  • 5 months later...

Am I to understand that some people store the hood along with the frame at the back of the seats, i.e. they don't take the hood off and simply fold the lot behind? I didn't even think that was possible.

 

On a different issue: what were the original fittings for the hood frame cover (you call it sticks?) Were they - Lift the Dot - like 15 in following page, or teenax as I see in many only pictures?http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID200891

 

Also that page shows that you need 12 studs.lift the dot (no 18), and 2 teenax pegs (no 13). Where do those 2 pegs go?

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I store my tonneau behind the seats (but still connected to the rear panel). It has slits cut in it to make it fold easier.

 

 

Yes, I do the same.

 

Do you know anything about the fasteners I described in the last post? Why two of them are different and where doi they go?

Edited by qim
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hi, it is possible to have the softtop partly left in place, leaving the rear pegs connected, but the side loosen to fold inside behind the seats. its a bit quicker to have the top erected when bad weather pops up.

of course the frame needs to be folded up beneath the top first.

 

On the rimmer page, please look at the model description and you will find for which commission number, the listed item is needed.

 

i believe you have a tr3, so item number 13 on rimmerpage is not needed on your car..

 

the used lift-a-dots on the body from commission number TS5255.

tenax on a tr3 are used on the windscreen frame only.

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i believe you have a tr3, so item number 13 on rimmerpage is not needed on your car..

 

Thanks Edwin

 

I made a mistake; I meant 21 and not 13.

 

I have a TR3A (1959) pre-60000

 

It still shows 12 studs and 2 pegs. I think

Edited by qim
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numbers 18 and 21 are both lift-a-dots. number 21 is used to screw in wood, the others with a nut.

 

on my tr2 all the tenaxs pegs on the doors are wood screws, dont know exactly on a tr3a where any wood is used. could be in the doors behind the sidescreen mounts ?

 

when i look at th picture on the rimmer page, number 21 is used right behind the doors on the b-post.

on other pictures the stud is used on the scuttle

Edited by EdwinTiben
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I am not sure

 

I thought all the wood, if it existed had rotted away, but while the rebuild they said there was wood, but the screws are falling off the doors... so maybe the wood is rotten

 

Should I get rid of any wood and use studs everywhere instead?

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I am not sure

 

I thought all the wood, if it existed had rotted away, but while the rebuild they said there was wood, but the screws are falling off the doors... so maybe the wood is rotten

 

Should I get rid of any wood and use studs everywhere instead?

replace the wood..

 

theres wood to keep the scuttle in shape for instance, you cant just remove it.

 

i had 1 spot where the wood was too weak to hold any screws. i poured in a hardener, used for repairing wood on a house e.g. and when i screwed in the studs/pegs i used a bit of expanding glue. after hardening you will have a kind of thread tapped when you remove the stud.

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There is wood in the doors of a +60k sidescreen door but only two small pieces for the sidescreen Dzuss plates to be fixed to. There is also a small piece of wood on each side supporting the capping behind the elbow piece that attaches to the B post. All of these are very easy to re-manufacture and replace.

 

In a TR3 and early TR3a, there is a wooden section running the length of the door at the top, slightly more complicated to manufacture but still well within the ambit of a competent DIY'er with a jigsaw, a plane and a spoke shave.

 

Rgds Ian

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Hi Thank you all

 

I am still trying to work out why there appears to be TWO self screws and 12 studs for the area where the sticks cover is attached

 

My question had to do with the pegs for the sticks cover, not the doors. Is there wood other than in the doors?

 

PS-

 

Sorry I missed this from Ian

 

There is also a small piece of wood on each side supporting the capping behind the elbow piece that attaches to the B post.

So, the B post is at the rear of the door? And my understanding now is that the nearest peg to the door (the last for the soft top) should screw into wood. If it is not there can a stud be used instead? is there a template for the size and shape of the wood that goes in there?

Edited by qim
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There is wood in the doors of a +60k sidescreen door but only two small pieces for the sidescreen Dzuss plates to be fixed to. There is also a small piece of wood on each side supporting the capping behind the elbow piece that attaches to the B post. All of these are very easy to re-manufacture and replace.

 

In a TR3 and early TR3a, there is a wooden section running the length of the door at the top, slightly more complicated to manufacture but still well within the ambit of a competent DIY'er with a jigsaw, a plane and a spoke shave.

 

Rgds Ian

Use marine grade plywood and paint it with marine grade varnish or 2-pack finishing paint. It will never rot.

 

Menno

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OK, I found the wooden block in Rimmer's catalogue, p.209, item 28 under Wheel Arch.

 

I guess that this is for the last (nearest to the door) peg, but why the wood and not simply a stud like all the others around the rear wheel arches and rear of the car?

Edited by qim
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On my 3 all the studs behind the door are fastened with a nut.

All studs on the door are into wood, & all the studs behind the screen are into wood

 

Bob.

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