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TR3B Performance Upgrade


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Hello everyone

I am looking for some tips and experience:

I have decided I need a performance upgrade for the TR3B. I am not building a race car, several reasons, amongst others Swiss rules for making changes to classic vehicles.

So, I am aiming for a ca 20 bhp increase and don't want to do a full rebuild. The car is also prone to running hot, and since Summer's can be hot here and of course there are plenty mountain roads around here to enjoy, so I am also looking to address the lack of cooling capacity.

 

Here is what I am planning:

- Stage 2 or 3 flowed head

- Extractor manifold and free flow exhaust

- Uprated (6 fin) water pump

- Oil cooler

 

Questions:

- There is not much price difference between a stage 2 or 3 head, any reason not to got for the stage 3?

- Out of convenience I am considering buying the head from Moss. Does anyone have any experience with these?

- What compression ratio should I am for. The Moss once come set up for 9.5:1?

- Anybody have any experience with roller rockers? What sort of performance increase would you expect from that with the standard head?

 

Cheers

Ewald

Edited by Ewald
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I would suggest a Stage 2 flowed head and 4-branch exhaust.

Work out what CR you want re: increased cc.

 

Forget the 6-fin water pump - tends to cause cavitation and

doesn't really help with the cooling. Think electric fan. This

will allow the engine to warm up more quickly, increasing

engine efficiency and saving power when you don't need it.

 

If the original cooling system setup is working properly, it is

perfectly adequate, so I suggest you look towards getting the

original setup working properly rather than thinking there is

something that needs to be modified.

 

Definitely increase cc as both a performance and drivability

improvement.

The extra torque from increased cc is not to be sniffed at.

 

A fast road cam (plus new followers) is a good move, but forget

about roller rockers.

 

Oh, and forget about an oil cooler unless you want oil leaks

and oil running too cool in 99.5% of conditions (unless you go

regularly to hotter climates).

 

AlanR

Edited by TR 2100
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A Moss/Eaton supercharger kit would give around 20% horsepower gain on your standard engine, and in the normal rpm range. Supposedly fitted in a weekend.

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Bob,

 

"fitting new liner & pistons will make it run even hotter"

 

Oh contrare ! the fitment of new pistons and liners will allow the removal of the sludge and scale from around liner No 4 which is a large contributor to engine reduction in water flow and overheating engines.

 

As regards a Stage anything head without a commensurate increase in general engine equipment (ie camshaft, larger pistons etc ) means a 20 hp at the rear wheels increase is not easily achieved. Peters suggestion of a supercharger would be my choice of engine power increase without having to do a lot to the engine.

 

Mick Richards

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Ok, that is all my plans out the window then, haha LOL! Well I guess that was the reason I was asking. :)

 

I guess I will need to dig some deeper and resolve the hot running. I already have an electric fan fittered. I have added some more info another topic related to the overheating, so I won't repeat all of that here.

 

I am based in Switzerland and only drive the car in summer. Temperatures are generally between 20C and 30C, sometimes up to 35C. I want to have the car set up to be able to do hill climbs, that is the main reason for the oil cooler and in general I think one can say my driving style will classify as "fast road" ... And of course the many mountain roads here offer a great playground for that kind of

]behaviour.

 

Alan, re running on cooler days: wouldn't a thermostat fitted oil cooler just reduce the circuit on cooler conditions and maintain enough heat in the oil/engine?

 

As for the performance upgrade: Swiss rules for classic cars specify that the car must be in its original state. I am pretty sure I can get away with some internal mods, but I am pretty sure they'd spot the supercharger on inspection... Thanks for the idea though Peter.

 

As for increasing cc, I was contemplating the flowed head, as it seems a relatively moderate complexity to execute. Fitting new liners and pistons as well as for changing the cam shaft would mean more or less a full rebuild, wouldn't it?

 

Thanks for all your thoughts.

 

Ewald

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Cure the overheating first.

 

Then, visit a rolling road and make sure you know the 'current state of affairs': what's left of the original 100 (or so) hp? Then, plan a regular rebuild. A proper rebuild will get you back on track for the 100 hp. Stay away from a stage 2 or 3 upgrade. 123ignition, proper coil and decent rebuild of the SU's will do the trick.

 

I suppose you're running the car through the mountains? Contact Dutch company BCCP for advise about SU's and high altitude. Their customers are from all over Europe!

 

http://www.bccp.nl/uk/indexgb.htm

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I reduced my overheating by fitting a new and up graded radiator with off set fins and no starting handle hole. This made a big difference,

 

Have you fitted the ducting in the front panel to make sure that all the cold air is flowing through the radiator.

 

I also have some small spacers under the front hinges on the body side which allows a gap and hot air escape.

 

Good luck,

 

Richard & H

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