Keith 5 Posted September 4, 2016 Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 Hi previously had problems with the steering wheel moveing up and down setting off the horn ,so stripped it dowh ,fitted new bushes and reassembled making sure all was tight including clamp and allen key grub screw. problem reaccured very quickly ,the only thing i can think to do is put a slight drill mark (drill tip only) for the grub screw to locate or ?? help Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted September 4, 2016 Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 Is the wheel to close to the column ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keith 5 Posted September 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 Hi Neil, when i say up and down the streering wheel moves in and out of the outer column ,so when pushing on the steering wheel it moves and earths on the outer column causing the horn to sound it looks to me that the impact clamp should stop the inner column moveing? Regards Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted September 4, 2016 Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 (edited) Yes it should be rigid fore and aft. If it isn't there's something wrong with the clamp. If you put a dimple there it will probably compromise its ability to slide in case of a frontal impact. Edited September 4, 2016 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 5, 2016 Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 Hi Keith, do not put any extra drill marks etc anywhere. The outer tube is held by the front and rear brackets. These must be tight. There are felt pieces that grip inside the clamps. The inner rod is held forward of the bulkhead with a clamp (two bolts and a Allen headed screw). Set the position of the rod/steering wheel (1/16 to 3/32 gap between wheel and column) then tighten the clamp - tight. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted September 5, 2016 Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 Would you get movement in the column if there was play in the rack bushes ?. Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 5, 2016 Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 Hi Mark, not sure of that; but you could get fore/aft movement if the bolts that go into the rubber doughnut splined clamps (IF rubber doughnuts are used) are loose. These MUST be tight in order to stop the splines rattling about. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keith 5 Posted September 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2016 Hi All sorry for delay ,ok going to remove impact clamp tonight and adjust position of steering wheel in relation to outer column, have checked steering rack and rubber doughnut and both seem to be fine ie: no movement. Raining saturday but dry sunday so will let you know . Regards Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndrewMAshton Posted September 10, 2016 Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 Hello Keith, I had a similar problem and managed to get it sorted, there were two causes, the clamp at the bottom of the column was not tight, very difficult to get at to give it some stick but a very king MOT man who took a shine to my car but also had a 4 foot long 3/8" extension sorted it for me, the second problem was the two clamp either side of the donut, according to Revingtons they are a poor design and they 'modified' mine and problem sorted, the modification was a hacksaw cut on the split side of the clamp that allows the clamp more movement and I suppose clamping force. Cheers, Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 10, 2016 Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 Hi Keith, tegarding Andrews reply - post #9 - the clamp bolt for each splined coupling has its work cut out. The design of the clamp is wrong and needs to be relieved. A hacksaw cut would do the job but us crude. The other way is to use a milling machine and put in a slot and remove the excess material. Roger [attachment=19700:DSCF0079c.jpg] Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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